Brian, post a picture of the front seal inside the timing cover. Around the area where it is pressed in, you'll see small indentations very close to the edge. Like you used a chisel and hammered the "dent" there. This dent expands the metal and gives your seal a tight fit. At least this is the way I've seen it done, and the way I did mine. I could see previous marks from who ever put in the previous seal.
Brian, Check out the pic below. I hope you covered the red oval before removing crud as this gap goes straight into your oil pan. when you reassemble the timing cover on the engine. the corners on the block ad a little black RTV on those corners and when you reassemble push where the green arrows are on the gasket as you tighten down the cover to the pan.
Im gunna be honest Nate, i had it covered 99% of the time, but i know a little got in there ou: any suggestions? And here are the pics of the crank seal, i know the "dent" things ur talkin bout but what do i do?
The circles are high spots. The metal tapered ring comes out. and then you file the circled high spots down. I think I was able to use a sharp utility knife to remove the high spots. these spots are on the surface of the hole the seal will press into. I carefully used a piece of wood and a hammer to install mine.
This is a great thread Brian. Great Documentation of the entire cam swap so far. I hope other soon to be hot-rod 350 owners will look at this and decide to swap cams in their engines.:beers2:
So the ring pops out? Like maybe use a screwdriver to wedge it out..? Thanks Cason. I need all the help i can get. Im getting real nervous that once its all back together its not gunna start or somethin is gunna go wrong....
Post a pic of your timing set once you get the new cam in, that way we can make sure it's on right. That should make you less nervous.:idea2: Just take your time and don't cut corners. Make sure all your gasket surfaces are clean as possible. You can avoid leaks that way. Also RTV is only used on the intake. It is not used anywhere else.:beers2:
By each dent, you can see the metal pushed in against the ring for the seal. Your gonna need to get this ring out carefully without damaging the mount. I believe when I did mine, it came out pretty easy. As suggested above once its out, your gonna need to take down the high spots. Push in the new seal using a piece of wood. Then with a good chisel/punch and one swift bang, make a new set of dents.
The neophrene seal is the best seal by far..... But here goes on how to replace the rope seal....Get every thing clean,,, clean,, clean,,,, [I submerge everything in straight simple green over night ] then take a punch/screwdriver and take the steel ring out from the back side of the t/g cover.... then clean the groove real good... and the steel ring.... next take the new rope seal and hand form it around the groove in the t/g cover,,,, cut it to length , leaving it a little long so you have to work the ends in together and tight.... remove the cut, newly formed rope seal from the cover.... coat the groove in the cover with permatex 300 gasket sealer.... put the new seal back in the groove on top of that... with the gap ends at the top.... then,, coat the inside of the steel retainer ring with permatex 300 and tap it back down over the new seal ..... and when it is all the way down,,, restake it with the screw driver blade.... then take a large socket and flatten the new seal as much as you can , all the way around the circle... lube the inside of theseal with some wheel bearing grease.... make sure the steel ring is staked good because if it is not, when you install the harmonic balancer it can come out and you will have to do it all over again.. Then when you re install the harmonic balancer coat the hub with grease...
alright...this is starting to piss me off now...the rubber seal (pn 15200) has an outer lip that over hangs on the back side of the timing cover. How in the hell am i supposed to get that retainer ring over it? Or am i? HELP!
the new seal will pound in and the "lip" will sit flush on the backside of the cover and will prevent you from pounding it in too far. I coated the inside of the seal bore with rtv just to be sure. Did you make your mods to the cover yet?
Smartin is right on,,,, if you use the new seal, you dont use the retaioner ring,,,, just save it ,,,, you or someone else might use it later ...... :Brow:
Oh thank god!! Well i replaced the crank seal, put the oil pump back on (with vaseline), and put on the water pump and new seals. Next is putting the ole cam in! :TU: Chris, what mod you talkin bout.....??? uzzled:
I remember you talking about how the old cam was hard to get out. Did you turn the crank and it slide right out?
Nope, didn't want to mess w/ the crank position. The cam just needed a lil tuggin and a lil twistin. Plus some oiled up bearings! :TU:
BIG PROBLEM!!.....? My dad and i put the new cam in, loaded w/ lube and grease. It was a tight fit...very tight getting it in. Used a bit of force to "slide" it in. Once it got all the way in it wouldn't budge. I know that my original cam, when all the way in, twisted freely. But with this new cam all the way in i cant even budge it by hand. With a wrench on it, it moves but with a decent amount of force. HELP!!!! :ball:
