I have been pondering the idea of adding a 75-100 shot system on my 350 to get down the track a bit faster. Have any of you guys used it on a mild build engine? How did it work out for you. Im running 14.6-14.7s in 1/4 at 93-94 mph consistently. crossing the line at about 4800 rpm using 1st and 2nd gear only. stock trans stock heads 290-94h-350 cam TA Perf. stage 1 intake quadra jet built by Everyday performance .030 over bore w/flat top pistons. stock crank stock dual exhaust with 26" Hoosier Drag slicks
Just be safe with your tune and nitrous isn't voodoo. Pull about 2 degrees of timing out (assuming your current timing is dialed in properly) and go a step colder on your plugs. Perhaps not absolutely necessary with a 100 or less shot, but again, it's all about being safe on the tune. Get cocky and that's how bad stuff happens. Be smart and nitrous can give you a whole lotta fun for the money. That's why they call it giggle juice!
I ran 100 shot thru a mild locompression 72 350 w comp 268 cam. Went from 14.9s at 94mph car to 12.9 sec at 104. 3.73 rear, 275 60 15 tires, 200r4 trans. You could probably get away with a 125 shot but ? Definitely pull timing on the juice. I used an msd 6a box with msd retard box.
The mild built engine I ran prior to whats in the car mow picked up a second in the 1/4 mile on a hundred shot. But for bracket racing it was just one more thing to keep track of and make sure it was exactly right. Towards the end I had it wired to a momentary switch on the shifter rather than a WOT switch and used it to close up a gap at the end of the track. Push the button and its like another gear kicking in!
What gears are you running in the rear? Back when I drove my car to high school and I just was starting racing I has 3.08 gears, was running M&H g60-15. I still gothink into 3rd gear but only st about 1000ft. Since I didn't drive mine much any far distance went to set of 4.10s I got at a swap meet for 15 bucks. Shaved more than a second off the et. If your not even getting into 3rd a set of gears might be a better place to start. Always there, can run out, won't do any damage inside the motor, won't cost any money to refill time and time again. I feel it's always best to best use what you have b4 trying to add more. Buddy had a basic stk 5.0 Mustang f body, can't remember what the stk heats were but we put 4.10s in with his 5speed and he dropped about 1.25 seconds with no other changes. Just food for thought
I tried a 125 shot in a low 12 second 455 powered car. It was a blast, dang thing black tracked for 600 ft even with slicks. The time clocks didn't work for that run and on the next try the bottle was empty. My Speedo was well past 120
You can either pull the 2 or 3 degrees off the top all the time.......or use an msd box to pull the timing only when on the juice. Never run the juice, but was always told as long as there was enough fuel pull 2 degrees for ever 50 shot kept things safe in 50 to 200hp range.
Good catch Ben, I had a lapse, it's 2 degrees FOR EVERY 50HP of nitrous. Some would tell you with a fairly low compression engine it's not entirely necessary, but unless you've got some hardcore reason for every .01 et, i say why chance it? Pull 4 degrees (so drop it to 28 degrees) for a 100 shot. One step colder plugs is probably playing it extra safe, but again, I don't like breaking stuff so why not be as safe as possible.
Got to love the happy knob. Allows adjustment for nitrous, or even if it gets warm and you get some bad gas to keep from knocking and pinging. Or if you splash some race gas in. If you get stuck in traffic and it starts to get the temp gauge up, adding some timing since your just sitting can often run cooler On this setup if you put the knob on 8 and used it like 0 then set timing to say 32 full in......now you pull 7 degrees out by going down in numbers, or add 7 degrees by going up......so you would have the ability to both retard and advance the timing from the same setup
that was exactly how i used it. my car was a sleeper so when i wanted a smoother idle i could turn the timing up and when i wanted more cam lope like at a cruise in i could retard it..
Sort this problem out and assuming it is not a catastrophe: http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/broke-the-gs-last-night-at-the-drag-strip.333211/ Get a good ignition system with a rev limiter plus the retard. Stock heads? Are the current springs upgraded from stock? If not get them on there right away with or without nitrous. Add a supplemental electric fuel pump out back. You don't want the engine being torched without enough fuel delivery and nitrous. If you don't have anything but a factory converter in there install a 2500-2700 stall, nothing fancy, unit and you'll pick up a bunch just with that alone. When the nitrous hits the stall speed will go up so I'd recommend being conservative on the stall speed. If you don't have headers add them and put a better exhaust system on. If you add gas(nitrous) to the engine for it to work efficiently spent exhaust has to get out. The exhaust and the converter will add performance with and without the nitrous. Setup the governor to shift at 5500 rpm automatically from 1 to 2. If traction goes away off the line it will save you a world of pain if you had it in manual 1st. Good tires and hang on. If it was me I'd do everything but the nitrous and see how it works first, then nitrous.
Well I wont be going with any nitrous.....Broke the car Wed night. During burnout something went wrong. Not sure yet but idled like crap and seemed like it was running on 4 cylinders. had to be pushed off the track and towed home. In process of troubleshooting. So far I have figured out it did not jump time. valve springs are intact from what I can see. Push rods are good. I have everything disconnected and ready to pull the motor. probably broke valve or destroyed some rings and pistons. When I turn it by hand everything is smooth. I don't hear anything bad. Lobes on cam seem good too. I haven't checked compression yet. I have to buy a tester or borrow one.
If it's turning over smooth by hand chances are it isn't any major. It's not bad till you know it's bad
Check your ignition system and do a compression check before you pull the motor. Like Hugger said, it may not be anything major.
could be a bad coil. I had a kinda loose 3500 stall convertor in and I used a 125 shot with a 350 trans I backed the timing off to 28 from 32. With the nitrous it would blow the convertor to 5000 rpm at the shift of 5800 so plan accordingly I use a 373 gear 28" tall tire The 60 ft with this was at 1.70 with the 125 shot. 1.85 on the motor with the 3500 stall could footbrake it to 3 grand When I put the 2004 trans in I used a tighter 3000 stall I think it was pushing it to 4 grand after shifting. Use NGK plugs with the nitrous YR5 is what I am using. I currently use a 75 shot and it is taking a second and a half off the time. With the 125 shot it was almost 2 seconds off the time. You will need at least drag radials, I use MT DR's and I spin them a little off the line you can hear it in the video in my sig. that is with a 75 shot. I started running nitrous on my 350 10 years ago.
