Funny, I did not see Jim pushing any particular brand of oil, just one with the lowest possible calcium. And, just because a few people have had no problems, does not mean this info is without merit. Lots of people don't clean their chimneys, and never have a fire. That does not mean you can say that no-one needs to clean their chimney. Get my drift? Jim, thanks alot for that info, very valuable.
I may also add that all newer engines have rev limiters, thus avoiding over-rev and or continued higher than normal rpm's, reducing the need for that film to be as strong as was needed in older engines.
Thanks for the synopsis of the seminar. I was planning on going, but couldn't make it down. If I knew you were going, I would have probably shuffled my schedule. We'll have to meet up sometime soon. Good info!
I don't have any problem with skepticism Cason, but you have to remember he was talking to a group of engine builders, who already use his product. He also did very little "selling" per se, it was much more informational than anything. He was sharing the results of Joe Gibbs racing doing thousands of dollars worth of oil related testing for their cup motors. The real reason for the seminar was to tell us all that in 2011, the EPA and Oil companies are changing the type of phosphorus in the API certified oils, to one that is more friendly for the Cat converter. The EPA now requires OEM's to warranty the cat for 120K miles. They are also boosting the levels of Calcium, which is the most aggressive type of detergent used in an additive package. This is required by the OEM's, to keep the engines clean, as they struggle to re-design the motors to meet both emissions and fuel economy requirements. Do your own research, plenty of it is available on the net. JW
Near as I can rationalize, the calcium has a couple benefits in a oem application. First, being everyone is finally using low tension rings, keeping them free from buildup and sludge is essential. Secondly, the EGR, required to meet emissions, introducee the engine with crap and needs high detergent levels to keep sludge or buildup under control. Hydraulic litters don't like sludge and varnish either. We don't run our engines with EGRs at 210 degrees, so we don't need the calcium.
That would be a good idea, before you spout off! What does a kid like you know anyways? Only your own experience, without any real, repeatable, proven experience.
so, is this essentially the new gf-5/dexous 1 api SN,ILSAC specifications? this was mentioned in my amsoil dealer magazine.. only thing it mentions in a grapevine is its for the modern turbocharged engines, e85 fuels, and gm engines with variable camshaft timming..along with squeezing as much additional fuel economy as possible and providing more engine protection..
May I add something here. As of today no oil can have Zink in them ZDDP. Shell Rotella T was the last. Only Break in oil has ZDDP. Shell has a on line chart that will show you that all of your oils that you think is so good, is with out ZDDP, and have been for some time. I don't live where it gets -20 or more in the winter, so I use 30W in the winter and 40W in the summer. I only use 15W40 in new cars for 25000 miles and then I go back to the 30-40W oils. The new engines have only .001 to .0015 clearance in piston to wall. But after 25000 Its up to.002 to .003. So this is why I do this. I have customers that went over 400,000 miles before the timing chain went out. And the engine is still running at 500,000 miles. Now it's weak and you can hear the pistons rattle, but it still going pulling a trailer. This is one of 20 like it all have 350,000 or more on them. I have used this kind of oil for over 30 years and nothing has come close to doing what this oil has done. But now they don't make it anymore----Shell Rotella-T. So I'm asking shell what oil I can use with the ZDDP that I can add. They call it Shell Rotella-1 now. I'm going to try it and see what happens. I know you all want to know what engine went all those miles. 454 Chevy in a 1 ton truck. The mans name is Darby Montgomery. If you wan't to call him, I 'll E-Mail you his #. Robinson Auto & Equipment. Thanks you all.
Thanks for the information. I have no clue what oil to use now. I've been running Mobil 1 Synthetic, but now I am not so sure.
You really can't go wrong with race or muscle car type oils that identify the zinc additives in their description. I see Comp, Edelbrock, Gibbs and others are selling it. The base oils are most likely similar unless they are synthetic.
This information has been posted by LN Engineering LLC. And they are not in the business of selling oil. They even talk about more Zinc being needed as valve spring pressure increases. Click the link below and scroll down to the Q/A section. Oil What motor oil is best for my air cooled Porsche? (or any high performance engine) by Charles Navarro Last Updated 03/30/09 http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html#Z40
I was a big proponent of the Rotella T and had good luck with it for a lot of years. Since the zinc content was reduced in that as well, I was forced to abandon my old stand by. Since then, I have had great results with both the Joe Gibbs as well as the Brad Penn. The Joe Jibbs assembly grease is a great product as well. Awesome for valvetrain components. SB
http://www.bradpennracing.com/Zinc.aspx Bob, You are welcome to purchase whatever you would like from whomever you would like. I was simply commenting on what has worked well for me. I haven't had any customers with flat tappet cams have issues with the Brad Penn or the Gibbs products. SB
I've had good luck in 4 engines I've built for others using Brad Penn oil as well as their break in oil for flat tappet cams. Ray
I don't even use ZDDP additive in my oil. Just regular Castrol GTX 10W-30. Engine runs great and oil pressure is perfect.
