I put a google study out on the frame rust to refresh my memory. It's common enough as it pops right up in the search and there are all sorts of threads on the forums for it. It appears The issue is the result of the AC drain on the right side. The frames rot from the control arm mount back to the rail under the door on the right side only. I remember condemning more than a few of these cars back in the day. Like I said before, the rest of the car would still look relatively decent and you'd never guess the frame would be bad. Not a bad ride otherwise. I would rather have an older rig without the mod motor, but that's just me..
I knew registering this car would be a hassle but wow didn't realize just how much. My local RMV doesn't have any room for appointments for the rest of December. I believe the RMV 2 towns over offer drop off paper work and then have to wait for the plates in the mail. The friend who was suppose to give me the ride might of been exposed to Covid and got tested yesterday. My other driver car is with my girl in NY and now we just got blasted with snow My family are so busy with work and life that they never have a free minute. The seller has no problem with the car sitting on his yard till I do get it done. It's parked on grass though, kinda away from any solid road or driveway. If this snow keeps up i'm in for some heavy shoveling. Haven't had a chance to go back and look underneath also..
Wow kinda eerie. I got off the phone with AAA only 30 minutes ago.. Thanks guy's but the agent told me they are limited to license renewal's or just renewing registrations. I pretty much stopped listening when she said no about plates. This is from constant tries and not getting anywhere fast. Now i'm wondering if I should call back again because we all have come across agents that know alot and others that don't??
i love the things. we had them at work for cruisers for years. only issue we had they would blow a sparkplug out. if i wanted a newer car this would be what id buy and i almost did when i got this 72. i like a v8 and rwd.
Hi everyone, I have a question and didn't want to start a new thread. I need to tackle a few issue's on this car. One of them is the rear window defroster doesn't work. The switch lights up on the dash but I never seen a setup like this on the rear window as far as connections to the defroster grid on the glass. There is connection wire coming from the inside molding on both sides of the glass that clip on a grid tab, has to be a Ford thing? The one on the passenger side has come off the heating grid. Do I need both connected to close the circuit and make the grid heat up or is it just designed for each side to heat up 1/2 the window? Is this common and is there maby a kit to repair it.
They both need to be connected for it to work. We have Tahoes, Yukons, and Suburbans that do that pretty often, actually. I've got a couple guys that solder the connector back to the glass. You have to make sure the car is warm and that nobody is going to open up the garage door when it's cold out while you're doing it or you can earn yourself the chance to buy a nice new rear glass from your old one shattering.
Thanks Lucas, I park outside unfortunately. If I do get it into a garage at any point and let the car get warm do I need to scrape the grid which is brown in color? I have very thin copper sheets somewhere which I might try cutting some tiny strips and tape them down over the broken off tab onto the grid. Do you think it might work?
It might still work, it just has to be an electrical connection. Never saw an issue on a Marquis or Crown Vic, but I'm ASSUMING it's similar to the gms I've had come through the shop. I'd make sure it's definitely a good, clean, solid connection. You can build up heat otherwise.
Taping a connection down might work but it won't be reliable. I would recommend to wait for warm weather to solder the connection because an unheated garage is still pretty cold.
The back of the tab that pulled off seems to have pulled of that portion of grid it was sitting on, meaning I can't see any grid on that window spot. Now i'm wondering if I have to make the tab connect on both ends of the grid? The car is with my girl and I can't remember where in the grid the tab is mounted. I also have a very unsteady hand at times and my soldering stinks in general because of it. I have what's called a Essential Tremor thats hereditary. It comes and goes but still is a pain in the butt.
Update on problem with Panther class ball joints: I recently had the lower ball joint FAIL suddenly while I was driving. Fortunately I was in a small town known for being a speed trap, so was going UNDER the speed limit. All of a sudden the car just lurches to the right and nose-dives! The ball joint simply came apart: the ball came out of the socket. Naturally this happened on the diagonal train crossing, and the car would NOT push it forward without a lot of rear wheel spin!! The tire wedged itself into the wheel-well held on by the steering linkage and upper A-arm. Had to jack the car up, turn the steering all the way left, and take the lug nuts off to get the wheel free. With regards for the defogger, here's quite a few Youtubes to check out. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=rear+defroster+testing
Funny and true that you bring this up. I went out this morning early to go to Stop and Shop and brought down a room temp roll of electrical tape and when I came home a 1/2 hour later I couldn't unroll a decent size piece of tape without it breaking in small pieces from it sitting in the car for that short time!
Oh my that had to be terrifying Steve, glad your ok!!!! Thanks for the links also. I will get some pics later on when the car gets home, LOL it was only a matter of time till someone asked!
Wow for now my Mickey Mouse fix for the rear defogger works.. I lightly sanded both ends of the grid and the tab where it pulled off and put a strip of copper sheet over it and taped it down with electrical tape. It took yesterdays snow to see if it worked. There's another thing thats from the factory that drives me nuts.. After putting the car in gear it auto locks the doors just as the tires start to roll but i'm still thinking it just might lock the doors when I get out of the car and it's idling. I don't have the key door lock pods that I could keep separate just incase. Reading the owners manual it says I can disconnect that auto lock system but wow it involves alot of decoding. Like turn the ignition key 1/2 way and back 11 times then count to 9 and then again 6 times and then turn the radio on 17 times yada yada yada.. These aren't the real directions of course but it's that confusing. Also the car wouldn't turn over a while ago and all the dash lights worked. Come to read that at times the factory built in alarm will not read the key code proper if you have alot of gizmo's on your key chain. I'm guessing it was my building door card that did it as the only other things on it are reward cards from CVS, Stop and Shop etc..
You can get replacement remote fobs online, and I THINK that you can get them at some auto parts stores. The procedure to set them is actually easy. No need to go to the $$$$ dealer. That is also an option, but you may be past the 'zone' that dealerships keep the codes. My sister had to get new keys, as she lost hers on vacation, and the formerly Ford dealer was able to program her keys. Surprisingly, the ACTUAL Ford dealership could not. And her car was a Mercury, never sold at that dealership... EDIT: wow just searched this for 2006 Ford They are cheap...
Thanks Steve, I'm going to look and for sure and buy some seeing you say they are cheap. One thing worries me, on the front driver side window is a good size black transmitter with good size antenna and the rear window has a small box. I'm guessing it's Ford version of North Star as one booklet says Compustar. The paper work that came with car has pamplant's from a company "Pursuit" remote security systems and the list of features is long and which also mentions it has a ton of frequency's. I'm guessing it was 2 systems added together? The man I bought it from mentioned his Father inlaw had it all disconnected because the alarm kept setting off even with just a gust of wind. I'm hoping trying to program a new remote fob won't cause any starting or lockout issues. It still has the active factory system which might be a good thing. Another thing that has me me worried is I swear I heard some CB talk come in over the radio's speakers one time.. Edit: Steve they are cheap, I just ordered to what is suppose to be 2 of them from Walmart for $9.85 total. Alot of the ads are for just 1 so we will see.
You can also use the door mounted key-less entry pad to reprogram the door locking mode. It should be in the owners manual. https://itstillruns.com/align-blades-after-changing-motor-5729754.html How to Disable Crown Victoria Automatic Door Locks by Leonardo R. Grabkowski Later models of the Ford Crown Victoria (and Mercury Grand Marquis) are equipped with an autolock feature. This feature automatically locks the vehicle's doors when you move your gear selector out of Park. This feature is easy to disable and only takes a few minutes, according to the Crown Victoria owner's manual. Step 1 Close all of the doors in your Crown Victoria and complete the following process in 30 seconds or less. Step 2 Insert the key into your ignition and turn it to the "On" position, but do not crank the engine. Step 3 Press the "Unlock" button on your driver's side door panel three times. Turn the ignition key back to the "Off" position. Step 4 Press the "Unlock" button three times again. Turn the ignition key back to the "On" position. Listen for the beep. Press the "Unlock" button on your door once. Wait for the beep. Once you hear the beep, turn your ignition key to the "Off" position and remove it.
^^^^^^Thanks red!^^^^^ My owners manual covers the instructions over 2 pages.. I don't have the key-less entry option unfortunately
