Back in the 2000/2001 models, the instructions were like two pages long as well, but it seems as though the system will automatically re-arm itself. With regards to the automatic door locks, I find it to be both a help and a hindrance. Upside: your doors automatically lock when you mash the brake pedal in drive AFTER the initial movement. Downside: rear seat passengers have no way of getting out if you don't unlock the doors. Another feature that I like and dislike is the automatic parking brake release, which you have to mash the brakes to shift out of park. So no rocking the car if you get stuck!!! Don't jack the car up with a floor jack under the 'pumpkin' of the rearend: the tubes are not welded in as strongly as they were in days of old, and they CAN leak at the 'pumpkin' if you jack it up there... If your car has the door keypad entry system, the code is on the box on the inside of the door panel. From what I understand, you can also accidentally lock ANY FOMOCO car that has this option just by pressing two certain keys, REGARDLESS of the actual car!!! NOT GOOD!!! EDIT: OOPS just red your last post: No keyless entry. Must have been a very low option car! Which can be a good thing: Less troublesome to operate!!!
Yup Steve, I had mentioned the locks auto lock after maby 5 mph but they really do just right after putting it in gear. Then if you unlock it again to let someone in, it does the auto lock again. I know its there for safety and children but that constant clinking can get annoying really fast. I ran out of ink on my printer so wrote down Red's instructions and will try tomorrow. Yes though seems this car is full of little codes especially if it was a loaded LS optioned one. The passenger side front air bag is turned off and on by sensor's on the seat to measure weight, thats seems insane instead of having a on/off key!! Its not very loaded which yes is so much better for a older car. I don't even know if it has a posi yet. I nailed it a few times in some wet conditions but I din't feel any tire spin as the tries are I think 60 or 65 series. Thought maby I felt a tiny posi fish tail but i'm not sure. Yeah I can jack it up and check the tires rotation but these days it's not a pressing issue. Snow is coming soon so will find out soon. I would never jackup at the pumpkin but thanks for the heads up on the axle tube.
The information sticker on the passenger side rear door 'arch' will have codes that can be cross referenced... My sisters MGM LS had a problem with the passenger seat tack as well. Ended up having to tack the seat off the seat track, clean the sensor and magnetic strip on the track, and reset the computer after disconnecting the battery with the track at full extension forward...
That is crazy! I remember years ago watching a TV ad for a Lincoln Navigator where the side step swings out like 6 inches for woman to step on to get into the SUV and i'm thinking good luck with that working after 1 year and have it stuck in the out position.. At 6:00 this morning it was 4 degrees outside but going to check the door arch sticker and take a pic. The only thing is the car was repainted after the original paint peeled off to bare primer. Hoping they didn't paint over the sticker.. Guess what?? it has started peeling again to the primer on most of the trunk. The shop never addressed the primer most likely being the issue..
Yup.. Of all the cars in my parking lot that has 100 spaces or so to be parked "right" next to me is another exact color Grand Marquis. Maby a 2010 but its basicly the exact car body panel wise. It is a LS model and has the aluminum wheels that look exactly like my hubcaps. This car also is showing decent spot of rust on the roof right at the front window. The owner is a miserable SOB who got me a $2o ticket because I parked with my front tire about 10 inches over into his parking space line a couple years ago. I actually had to park this way because it was on a snow covered day and the last car on the end had to park crooked because the plows packed 1/2 of his space with snow and it started a chain reaction of the cars all parking crooked. I really was more pissed off that the cop gave me the ticket being it was obvious why I parked like that. The guy is on dialysis so I didn't lay into him but still doesn't give him the right to be a jerk in life. If anything I would help him with anything he might need. As far as this guys car knowledge I am shocked to just what he does Not know. A few years back he had a brand new Toyota if I remember correct. No hybrid just a regular gas powered one. It could be 0 to 20 degrees out and he would scrape of his car windows first, then enter the car and put his seat belt on and then start it and instantly put it in gear and take off. I don't even know how that car drove as it was a nano second from starting it to driving away. I asked him once if he had drove that morning before and he told me no in a somewhat nasty tone. I guess it caught up to him because the car ended up back at the dealer from issues and he never got it back.. I wanted to find out who the dealer was so bad to tell them his driving habits, whether they could tell I don't know but it sure wasn't Toyota's fault and they shouldn't have to cover the warrentee..
Tried this but couldn't get it work. Maby I just didn't do it right?? but also going another way by getting a remote fob. I received the 2 cheap key chain unlock/lock remotes. They only came with on line instructions.. Have to do everything within 10 seconds. First one is going from the OFF position with the key in the ignition to ON 8 times rapidly. I can't be the only one to think it gives the ignition system as a whole a beating with the possibility of blowing fuses or other electrical disasters? I also cannot get these to remote pods to work and am wary of keep trying because the link shows a alternate way. This involves the front the seat belts being buckled and is more for a Ford focus? Wondering if a key shop lock smith can set it with some type of control pad?
I had an 06 Interceptor in the shop last week for an EGR problem. 160k miles and it was in EC with no rust. Ford added a lot of frame stiffeners to these and a very unique power steering cooler.
Years ago I got to get about a 5 minute look over on a CV Interceptor that was at least a 2002 model??. It was in a shop that had a very small account with the local police department when the police garage was over flowed or didn't have the right equipment. It wasn't a marked cruiser, it was a detective's car with no cage. Oh yes that engine compartment was full of after market goodies but mostly remember the anti lock brakes " box module"?? where a bunch of brake lines were going in or out. Remember seeing 2 extra cooler's and the one had to be for the tranny. Now I really wish I had a chance to look underneath.
I deleted my last long winded post.. On about 5 occasions my motor wouldn't turn over and all the dash lights lit up and the bells rang. Putting it in neutral makes it start. At first I read the on manual that the key code could be blocked by other keys and gizmos on the key chain but it starts like I said in neutral. Could just be a coincidence but it happens when I run a bunch of store runs and errands within a short distance. Not yet in the first start of the day. Any Ford guys that can tell me about any electrical gremlins that Fords are known for or the ignition setup?
those cars had a cable shifter that was cumbersome. if it starts in neutral I'd bet that's the issue or a simple neutral safety switch.
If it starts in neutral but not park, it isn't realizing it's in park so it's either a bad neutral safety switch or a cable adjustment as Joe suggested.
Ford had trouble with their Manual Level Position Sensors about that time. It’s a glorified Neutral Safety and Shift Interlock (I think?). Maybe that’s it? Also, on my MIL’s, you have to twist the key farther around than seems normal or natural to actually engage the starter. If I grab it like a GM car I end up twisting my shoulder down so my wrist can rotate it a little further. Probably not your issue but thought I’d mention it. Patrick
Thanks everyone..... All extra info is good pdr400.. Even for a not to loaded model it has enough electrical gizmos to worry me a bit. When it did happen I did the usual turn the key harder and bring it back and forth thing plus played with the shifter positioning in tiny increments.. It's happened about 4 times but in the last month out having the car now going on 4 months. I feel alot better now with the possible issues which you all seem to have come across.. With the weather being all over the place, plus being were I live now isn't a easy place to work on cars plus my being busy I have yet to get underneath the car yet for a decent time to see how things are. Just a little peek here and there to see how solid most of the under carriage is.
Another thing that I have seem on NUMEROUS ford products is that the bushings for the shift lever on the steering column tend to wear out and get sloppy. This makes the lever not set the position correctly for the interlock switch... It is a ROYAL PITA to correct, needing just about each and every Torx bit in the world to get everything off to get those two clamps loose to change those bushings. And you have to remove all the underdash trim and guards and THEN drop the steering column... I do not know if there is a specific part for them; I was able to get replacement bushings off of crashed cars at my local friendly old-school junk-yard. EDIT: steering column repair kit: Dorman P/N 905100, lists for $24.79 at Rock auto.com Sad thing is, all you need are the bushings... The other parts don't wear unless it has been cycling for YEARS with worn out bushings...Cheap pot metal or cast aluminum
Thanks for the info and parts link but..... Yikes!! I erased a post about myself and even a lock smith who also sells key fobs and replacement code keys not being able to program my after market remote fobs. Seems the aftermarket alarm was disconnected in way that makes the factory system useless. The alarm kept going off in parking lots and at night so they had enough. I'm 99% certain this isn't part of this issue? This was the disconnected system.
UPDATE::: I did a Google search for Ford steering column bushings... And several things come up. Dorman P/N 905-107, only about $6.00 to $8.00 for set of two. Says an exact fit when searched...
Years ago I replaced a tranny on a Taurus for someone only to find out the so called junkyard tranny that was said to work didn't.. Not even moved the car a few feet. Swapped the 2nd one for only $100. After that I just about kept to working on my own cars unless it was a close friend.
