I would double check that. I think it was something about the ducts. I'll try to find out. I know someone in Ohio that does all sorts of restomods. I think it was him that told me. I thought the chevelle kit was the one to get also.
My bad. I was thinking 1969. Anyway I would check. There is a post on here about using it on a 69. The compressor is on the drivers side for a chevelle. I think a LS motor compressor mounts on the passenger side like the olds kit though. I'd call them back and see if you could talk to someone else. Try calling Street Machinery in ohio ask for Boris maybe he can help. He does tons of that stuff you could probably facebook him. Aftermarket A/C for a 1969 Buick GS400 4 Spd | V8buick.com
Please let us know what you find out. When I swapped in the LS3 I fabbed a plate to locate the fuse box and ECM in place of the glove box. Keeps the engine compartment really neat and clean. My intention is to go with the Vintage Air but I'll have to basically rewire the car. Not as bad now that I figured it out the first time.
I have to be back in the office next week again. So I used this saturday to finish the front suspension work. Put the front wheels and sway bar on (1-1/4 thick) from.Muscle Factory that's a thick MF. AND I set the engine in the frame. Seems like the intake will fit under the hood. (Yes!!) BUT i still got a stage 2 scoop from TA just in case lol
Played with the paint today. I want to go for a patina look so I pulled out sandpapers. Acetone. Different spray paints and went to town. Creating different layers and sand until you like it. In the end I plan to have the hood & trunk lid black and clear coat the body with a Satin coat.
Now it's a lot of cleaning. Degreasing. Apply new welds and sealant , and my best friend rust reformer.lol
I had some time to tear down the rest of the old interior. I found some decent interior panels from a forum member on here. The car had new floors put in but the welds where shitty. So I re-did a bunch of welds had to Fiberglass some corners. Seam sealed it new and started with painting the dash. After a couple wetsand and re-paint it came out pretty good I think. I also painted a bunch of other Dash parts And waiting on some orders to come in so I can Weld in the Chassiswork harnessbar(removable) + Mocking up the Corbeaus for extra motivation On another note I started to work on 70' 455 that I have sitting arround in pieces for a while. I would like to build it budget minded which is very hard with buicks .lol Today i did all the oiling mods fir the block (JW DIY in the forum) I had to buy a couple of the drills but i think its much cheaper than letting the machine shop doing it. + investing in tools is never wrong i think. I will bore it to 4.350 But I'm undecided if i should "stroke" it to a 482 or go 464. The difference is basicly $$. The 464 would save a couple bucks. But a higher CI BBB is badass. I will not have alu heads for now I use the 430s big chamber heads I have laying arround and my buddy larryMac hooked me up with brand new TA springs/valves/ timing cover etc. In order to get a better flowing head I started porting the Irons. I dont mind doing it myself I dont have a flowbench here but I would say I am pretty ok at porting. Had a couple sets of heads ported already buicks. Olds. Chevs Iron recently knsome pretty nasty speed boats
man this is an awesome project! So glad I found it! would you mind telling me what mounts you are using, oil pan, and how does the serp belt system clear? any mods to that? I just sold my RZR last night, and scored some money out of it. My 455 is coming out and LS is going in. I am super excited to get started and will be watching your progress hoping for some pointers. I am going a little different than most, Im keeping my M21 4spd, and I think, key word here is THINK......It can stay in its current location. as long as I buy the right motor mounts. Never done this before so its really going to be a gamble. Congrats on your progress and thanks for any info!
Hey thanks. So I used all Holley/Hooker stuff. GM A Body forward mounts. Holley 302-3 oil pan (has drains for a possible Turbo application later. A holley/hooker trans Crossmember for my 4l80e ( is also needed for T56.) If you use a TH350. 4l60 E and maybe your 4speed you can reuse your stock crossmember. DONT mix up LS swap parts. HOLLEY cost a couple $ more but it fits and is alot less headache. Btw I wanted to put motor and trans together today and swing it in. MOTHERF*** ME. I hate stuff like that. At least my buddy is able to weld that. Just got to get a LS block to mock up for welding.
Regarding the belt system I am planning on using the stock truck stuff. There is enough space . I am looking into a Vintage air setup. They dont have Buick. But if you order a 70-72 Chevelle Kit + the LS brackets it should fit nicely. I am undecided right now. Because I might go for more POWER (TURBOS) later. Regarding wiring and PCM I have a moded standalone harness and PCM ready. But I might sell it and go Holley Terminator X based on possible future performance changes of the build.
Front Control arms are "ebay" i had good experience with them on a previous build Rear is all tubular /adjustable control arms And a build 9 inch with 4:10 gears
awesome thank you for the info! man that sucks with the trans! I hope you're able to weld it up and get a fix out of it. Im not planning on doing a turbo......I figure if I want to give it a kick, i'll just throw some spray at it.......but I doubt that'll ever happen. Im not a speed demon, Im just after the reliable cruiser. One thing im going to be researching is the the front coil springs. I would assume theres a difference in big block springs, vs small block springs. My car isnt a factory big block car, but I assume whoever did the swap, paid attention to the suspension also.........and Id bet the LS is going to be fairly lighter than the heavy 455. I found info online, and found the part numbers for the correct bellhousing, pilot bearing, and flywheel. I think, again key word is think.....my current centerforce clutch will work. Holding out on ordering anything else engine specific until I actually buy and engine. If I can find one with the harness, I think I can figure out how to clean it up a little and get rid of the extras. Definitely wanting to keep budget friendly as possible
I decided to get a modular bellhousing from REIDs to fix my 4l80e. It should be fairly simple to install I heard?! Cut off old housing and bolt on the new. Its SFI rated and much stronger than the oem. So a little gain for 360$ lol
Well this bellhousing was wrong advertised @summit it will not JUST fit on a 4l80e and is build exclusivly for REID trans housings. CKperformance has a adapter that would make it work but that costs another 500$ so i am better of sourcing a new 4L80e ..... SMH
While trying to source a used 4l80e 2wd I worked on some interior stuff. I prepped the mountings for the corbeau seats. Installed heat and sound dampening material. Laid the new carpet and pocket up the seats. I hate doing the headliner with bare floors its very uncomfortable. Well now I am waiting on some parts and then I can continue on the interior.
Looks like you might have the same harness bar I do (Chris Alston Chassis Works). In hindsight I might have tried to locate it where I could still operate the rear window cranks, although that might not even be possible. This winter I bought the "shorty" window cranks (wing window cranks I think) but no-go.
