Robsbuick, I agree it's pricey, but what it does for the average racer is far more the value than what it would cost to dial in your car from race to race, this is a bolt on system, and you get emediate results. Just my .02 worth, Paul has become a good friend of mine in the past year, and when better products are built , I will promote them. I appluad your effort to build your own anti roll bar, and it seems to work well, congrats to your efforts!. I purchased the HRpartsNstuff bar becuase of its simplicity and the ease of installation. and the fact that I will probably return the car to local duty in the next year or so. Bruce
I think I understand how these things work, keeping the pass. tire "pushed" onto the track, but doesn't the creation of an additional pivot point create bind? o No: I know the advertising specifically states it will not bind the suspension, so I must not have the right understanding of how these puppies work. It would seem that that 3rd set of links would make the car "unsprung" if you will... I can visualize and build stuff, but I've never been able to figure out rear-end geometry :moonu: (no not that kind of rear) in motion. Sigh :ball: Hey Bruce (H.), I wish I had more time to talk at the Midwest Challenge. How did your 60 fts., ET, and MPH fare after you installed the bar? Ramin
Santa Came Today Well, My HR bar came today YEEEEEE HAAAAAA !!!!!!:laugh: I will be installing it this week and going racing on Sunday so I will post my results. Anyone want to join me at Scribner Ne. on Sunday ?
Hey Bruce H. Did you get your pics from Cecil up on HRPARTSNSTUFF site? I couldn't find em. Do you know if Paul got some shots of mine? My son said it was pulling both tires about 6 inches but I haven't seen a pic to prove it. I'm very happy with it! My reaction times are now more consistant due I believe to smoother more consistant rollout and just coming out straighter. Bruce
Bruce W, no I don't think Paul has updated his website yet, and your car should be the one to show off the ability of this bar for all to see, I have been very happy with what Paul has supplied me, And will be heading to the GSCA Georgia (reynolds) meet to give the ole' swaybar another test. I was very happy with the luanches at cecil, straight and true, no complaints whatso ever. Bruce Hunter
This thread is some REALLY good reading gentlemen! Very, very informative!:TU: I have a question though, for those of you using the HRPARTSNSTUFF bar. I am questioning the rigidity (strength) of the crossmember, where the bar is mounted. Are you guys experiencing any problems in this area at all? Or does it have to be specially braced/reinforced? thanks!
Is anyone still able to run TA's 3" tailpipes thru after installing either http://www.hrpartsnstuff.com/ or http://www.wolferacecraft.com/ bars?
Jeff, If you look back on the first page, you can see that the anti-roll bar I installed in the trunk, allows you to keep the stock gas tank, as well as running 3" exhaust without any problems. Rob
Thanks guys for the great feedback! For those that are not familiar with our new anti-roll setup, we have info on our site under the PRODUCTS section, bottom of the second column. We have similar info/pics in our catalog as well. Just e-mail us with your name & mailing address & it's free for US 48 states. This system is VERY street friendly. It takes out practically all body roll, swaying, and that "sloshy" feeling taking corners. With it installed, you instantly go to a feel like a slot car or Indy car. If you change lanes at 70 mph, it does it instantly, with no swaying/control/sloppy feeling at all. Normal turns on the twisties is VERY controlled feeling, usually allowing 10-20 MPH faster driving & feeling more controlled (Not recommended for legal/safty reasons, just passing on feedback from customers). It simply bolts into place (approx 2 hrs with simple tools) and allows dual 3.5" exhaust, doesn't come near the gas tank, and can be taken to another car with ease if the time comes to get a new car. It also has a nice "stock-appearing" look to it, which people find out real quick doesn't work anything like the stocker :grin: These "anti-roll" systems naturally increase resistance/bind from their general operation & design. On the weld-in styles, if it isn't lined up perfectly, it will bind & slow the 60ft time. It is also too rigid & metal to metal (with clearances) contact. This adds road noise and vibrations as well. We decided to get away from the weld-in style for those reasons & a few more. Using HD Poly in the mounts, it allows the bar to move freely even under the most extreme loads. It's plenty stiff enough for 4000# + cars with 1500+ HP levels. We found on 3800# car & approx 750 HP, it flexes only .040" (40 thousandths or just over 1/32") on the launch with wheels in the air, using a T-brake. This may sound trivial, but that much movement would bind & either slow up 60ft times or not get the benefits of being able to launch harder. It would be level either way, but not faster. Our setup compared to others is usually the same or better 60 ft time because it doesn't bind. Because it evens traction out to both tires, it helps keep the car consistant & not "fall-off" when the track gets slippery & others slow down. MUCH better in MANY aspects, but not like a 200HP NOS kit Actually it's about as dramatic change as that, just not all in the E.T. dept. It's designed to help you run quick more often or win more often, rather than just go faster. If you are holding back on the launch because it seems the car (or track) can't handle it, this allows you to put it on "kill" & let it rip. PS- We fixed Bruce's issue with the bar sliding side to side. The brackets were positioned just slightly inboard too far, allowing movement. Simply widening them took the extra clearance away & kept it in place. He did a VERY good job installing it without any instructions! We didn't have them ready in time for his install (my fault) which made it a bit harder. We now have 3 pages of very detailed instructions so a teenager could do it with ease. Now if I can just build them quicker Speaking of... Back to it Hope that helped answer some questions. Also, no time to update web yet with pics, and didn't get any real good ones from Cecil. Anyone with good pics, please send original files (if possible) to me so I can get them on the website. Thanks-
It cool Rob, I've been following along. Your bar looks.. um.. very professional. What do you do for a living? Where did you source your parts from? Or is that the Wolfe bar installed "right side UP"? This is very important to me so sorry for all the questions. I decided to stay with the stock fuel tank with a sump kit, so all of the fuel system stuff is behind the tank. The exhaust system is TA 3" with Walker super turbos. I had problems with the tailpipes wanting to hit everything if they weren't twisted just right! The back edge of the turbos is right even with the u-joint. There is very little room in there, hence my concerns on spending many hundreds of dollars.
Jeff, The only thing I bought was the chrome-moly tube for the torsion bar, and the rod ends. Everything else I machined from solid material.
After reading this thread, I'm thinking that the picture I took of Jerry's Buick (gotbuick) would make another good "before" picture!
In the picture above, I'm pretty flush with the surface of the hood. That would be fine if I were at ground level, but I was standing on the top of the bleachers at the track, looking downward. It should pull that gap out of the left rear wheel well too.
Steve, Is Jerry using No-Hop bars? The way the ass-end of his car is lifting, it looks like he is. I have no luck with those. Rob
Rob, I am impressed! So you are saying that unless I do this in the trunk area, neither of these bars will fit in my case?? I really am leaning towards the Wolfe setup. I'm not skeered of welding at all. Plus the cost of the HRPartsnStuff bolt-on bar ($459) + the additional parts that I need; upper control arms ($309) and lower control arms ($229); will run me a total of $997. I can buy the entire setup AND upper and lower control arms from Wolfe ($750). I really want to upgrade my control arms from the stock uppers and Southside lowers. Is the Wolfe kit a poser, for real, only for race cars with no gas tank or exhaust, what? o No: o No: o No:
Hey Rob, I was just rereading his post on the last race of the year (where that photo came from), and he has the Lakewood no-hop bars on it along with 25 psi in the right bag. I'm also following this thread pretty closely as I'm trying to set forth a plan for my next project (coming to a garage near me soon). I want it to launch very straight and consistent, and it looks like most of what's needed is in this thread. I won't be running that quick at the beginning, but I want it to be consistent for brackets. But as time goes by and the wallet allows quicker ET's, I don't want to have to go through the suspension over again to handle it.
