Nice work there Shayne, hope your neck gets better soon, care to elaborate on the new motor? you can PM me if need be, I can keep a secret. plus I need to know what to do to keep ahead of you year to year, only in times, you allways beat me in the Race, but I have so much fun hangin' with the boyz! and girlz! Please say hi to the family! Bruce:grin:
Thanks a bunch Shayne, for taking the time to take those pics and posting them! That was very helpful. :beer It appears that there is almost no way that TA's 3" tailpipes will fit thru the area over the rearend with the Wolfe setup.o No:
Hey Bruce, No secrets here. No big deal eather. Just a fresh short block. It has a girdle, short fill, long eagle rods (stock stroke) and short JE pistons. My compression will be up there over 13:1 though. Might be enough to dip into the 10's in some good air. My current short block has been around since 96 so it's pretty tired. I'll try and get out a few more times next year. Only raced 3 times this year, did bring home some cash each time though. :Brow: Jeff, If your doing much street driving at all I'd go with Paul Ferry's bar. It looks a little more forgiving. Not sure if tail pipes fit. My car rarely sees much street duty these days.
hey all This is a great post. I was wondering is the HR bar. Is it adjustable? By playing with the upright connections at the Hyme joints? Will it help preload one side? Is the bar that goes forward parelel to the ground? Is the bar solid, or hollow? Thanks for everyones help. Mike
Mike Yes, it is adjustable. The instructions walk you thru setting it neutral (preferably with a driver's weight in the car). There is really no need to preload since the thing works so well! It's a tubular piece so it is relatively light for it's size. It worked so well on my car I want mo power! But....I'll probably leave it as it is....for consistency. Bruce BQUICK
Bruce wrote: "There is really no need to preload since the thing works so well!" Guys, I just wanted to hi-lite Bruce's quote as I think this is a very important point that everyone's looking past. I do have a little preload in my bar, very very little. My bar was zero'd out with the driver in the seat and then I put just a quarter turn in it. The fact that you don't have all the preload lets the car track down the strip without scrubbing off speed. When you have a lot of preload, even with an air bag, your placeing things in a bind. The preload will get you off the line straight, but you'll lose MPH on the big end. Another part I use to keep my rear suspension out of any bind is spherical rear housing bushing for the upper control arms. I also got this from Wolfe. I'll try and post a picture.
Yep, one side is just a nut. The treads are nice and fine. I think I had to use a big pair channel locks since I have no wrenches that big.ou:
Can those bushings be purchased seperatly, how much, and through whom? Can no hop bars be run at the same time as a roll control bar? What happens ? Mike
The idea with this system is to get squat and weight transfer rather than separation by changing the instant center as the Southside and No-Hop bars do. The only negative (minor) that I have noticed with not running the Southside bars and air bags is that the car squats down in the rear more that before making it slightly less stable on the top end and probably pushing more air. Bruce
