Ya hafta think like an Egyptian. With two nubians underneath, you can each bar the motor back and forth. If your a lone Pharoah, then it's back and forth from side to side to gain that 1/2 inch each time. When you get to the stuck spot, go back the other way. eventually its gonna roll past it. If you can make a full turn, Ill bet the starter motor will do the rest. On the barring situation; leverage will be much better at the back rather than a chinese ratchet up front. Youll probably need to pull the starter and lower inspection cover. With both nubians , each one can take a plastic handled pry bar and get on the ring gear or maybe even in between the TC and flex plate. Use a little prudence (common sense) and dont put a floor jack under the bar to help it along. Just go by hand. If you have a 3rd nubian, borrow a 3/4" drive ratchet to put on the front bolt. The 3/4 wont flex and will keep a steady strain on it. I bought a boat that had been submerged with Detroit Diesels that were locked up from sitting. I was literally standing on the 3/4 ratchet and not even a budge. I rigged a 4x4 across the engine hatch frame with a come along and strap to the ratchet. Put about 1/2 ton of pressure on the ratchet and went home (from New Orleans to Chicago) for a week. Got back to the boat the following week and there was the ratchet laying in the bilge. The injectors were still in BTW and the CR was 23:1 on the diesels. Those 12-71s ran all the way from NOLA to Chicago without skipping a beat. Egyptians were big on bars, levers, rollers and inclined planes. That same technology works today, its just the tools are chrome plated. ws
If it isn't going to turn after all you've done, I say it's time to break it down and find the culprit before you break something.
Right. Even if it did start to turn I would not expect it to run good or for very long. You've soaked the hell out of it. It's stuck. Bite the bullet and yank it out.
After I bent the Taiwan ratchet, I've only been using a vintage C-man 1/2-in I-beam 18" breaker bar- no noticeable flex on that one. But I feel like just via that / my arm - I'm putting too much torque on it without it moving anymore. Crank nut torque spec is 160. Something's just not right. I've been afraid that would be the case (pulling the motor), but it is what it is. Would be a good opportunity to get some more cam & rebuild the Tri-P I have for it tho. Thanks for the input.
One thing most are missing. IF you buy an endoscope for between $12.00-$20.00 with the 6-7 leds in the end & adjustable brightness you can now use your laptop to see what's inside WITHOUT guessing & actually see what you may be working against. For the cost of an actual borescoop with it's crappy picture quality & small screen for less than $20.00 you'll have a tool for life & it's waterproof besides. Tom T.
The 2 stroke DD's are the engines that won WWII! Theres literally millions still in use today and were a very popular marine unit due to the HP/weight ratio. Those all came in 53, 71,92 and 110 series (cubic inches per cylinder). The 2 strokes ran from 1938-1995 when emissions forced them out and the 60 series (four strokes) came into play. Those are all DDEC (electronic controls). The earlier 2 strokes didnt due to well from an emissions standpoint. Theres still well over a million still in service. The are all supercharged and the later models turbo charged also with I/After coolers for more HP per LB. EMD locomotives used the same basic principle on the 567, 645 and 710 engines. Same deal as in CI/CYL. In the 90's EMD announced the 265H-Engine four stroke model along with still building the old 2 stroke models. In the late 90's they were bought out by Caterpillar. Other loco's used General Electric diesels among others as well. The EMD s 2 strokes are still widely used in smaller ships. ws
I do this every time I change oil in every engine I own and have been doing it for over 30 years without a problem. My oil stays clean for a long time. If there is sludge in your pan and you change your oil, the new oil breaks up that sludge and circulates it. It then gets caught in your filter causing it to go into by-pass mode prematurely, sometimes within 500 miles. I think you mechanic friend is saying he doesn't believe in oil additives. If you buy a used car, this is a perfect way to get a general idea of the health of the engine.
Screamin' Jimmies, green leakers oh man you definitely know what they are when you hear them coming! I'm looking at getting a 353 or 371 Detroit diesel for a old '37 Diamond T truck project I'm planning on doing in the future.
I heard the supercharged DD's are actually considered N/A being they wont run without the supercharger? True?
Yeah.. the average , say, 6-71N is considered a "naturally aspirated" engine, but you are correct, the 2 strokes need to blower to purge the airbox side of the intake (pressurize) and into the cylinder when the pistons are down below the intake port to expel the exhaust gas. The later turbo'd models just helped this process along. Blowers take a lot of power to turn so now its up to a turbo on the 4 strokes. All that noise yer hearing is the "Root" style blower moving air. You can hear it for miles on the open water. On that ol' Diamond T, consider going with a minimum 4-71 and probably at least a 6 speed with a 2x rear axle. A 6-71N is only rated at about 225-250 HP or about 35-40 HP per cylinder. . Most of the 53's Ive dealt with were for DC shipboard generators. Give or take, about 10KW or 13 HP per cylinder. Of course 39 horses with 25 gears behind it can do a lot of work. Its all about low RPM longevity and fuel consumption. 10,000 hours is very common before even a ring job. Thats running at 1800-2000 RPM all day long; as long as ya keep oil in them LOL... ws
Only if its heavily insured LOL... Just keeps it wet with "oil" and any water will settle out to the bottom. If its stuck from a day or two of being dry with seawater (salt) inside, it'll help loosen that as well... time is of the essence in that scenario... Call it "pickling". ws
The buick is my go to car for speed and HP the Diamond T is going to be a loud obnoxious fun little toy to bomb around in, not looking to set any land records with it. Also I have to watch how big I go on the engine since those 37 front ends are pretty narrow and I dont want the engine exposed I'd like to retain the original hood and hood aprons on the sides.
