Change from Lectric Limited to Pertronix conversion?

I currently have the single wire Lectric Limited conversion in my stock distributor and am considering changing over to the Pertronix 3 for several reasons: 1) I really want the rev limiter and 2) The Lectric Limited seems to have trouble at idle speed when the motor heats up to about 185 in hot weather.

I've done all the troubleshooting I care to do and have narrowed it down to either the distributor conversion or a cam that just doesn't want to idle below 850 in drive which makes my neutral RPM about 1000. Way too much for my turbo 400 when shifting from park to reverse or drive.

So, besides providing full ignition 12 volts to the coil instead of using the resistor wiring and a coil change, will the Pertronix unit just bolt in after removing the Lectric Limited? Or, is there something else I must do inside the distributor?

Please don't suggest installing an MSD ignition. My current ignition runs fine all the way up to over 5800 RPM (which I don't ever anticipate exceeding) and I don't feel the extra cost is warranted. Thanks for any input.

 

I used the Pertronix 3 for a very short time and it bolted to the stock breaker plate. That part does not require disassembly. My distributor was already apart.



The only thing that may be challenging is routing the wires under the plate and through the grommet. If you can do that, no need for disassembly.

 

It's so easy to pull the distributor on a Buick motor and put it back to where it came from. I would suggest you do just that and install the Pertonix unit with it on a bench.

 

I've been running the Pertronix 3 with their recommended coil (Flamethrower). Stock distributor otherwise. The car came with a Mallory unit, but I also wanted the rev limiter. I pulled the whole harness from behind the master cylinder to replace the resistor wire. 8,000 miles and 2 years later, it's still good.

 

Very happy with the Pertronix III's/FAST PS 50 coil combo - I run/race them in all three cars, have never had an issue. The rev limiter works, and the spark hold up at 5700 rpm. The one wire stuff (from whatever manufacturer) never worked out for me, many out of box failures and high RPM weirdness. I will say though - when people mention heat issues my head always jumps to coil function....

 

@rkammer i had identical issues with my lectric Ltd conversion. I have written about it prior. As soon as my car got warm it would stall. It was downright dangerous in traffic. I chased everything. Eventually I called their tech support and they explained that my newer aftermarket coil was causing the issue. Apparently no new coils are made in USA. The new coils made in China overheat. (They also encouraged me to check to be sure the mounting plate in the disti was grounded as the Lectric unit grounds unit self via the plate) Luckily I had the original delco remy coil squirreled away. It was not in great shape but sure enough I put the old Delco in and the stalling stopped. I then spent a year or two trying to find a fresh but older coil. Every new coil, regardless of brand, created stalling at idol. I finally found an older NOS blue streak coil that works perfectly.

Lectric could not provide a single new coil that they would recommend. I rechecked last summer hoping they had a solution. To me, I don’t know how you sell a product that won’t work unless your use it with a coil that is 10 years old or older?? Call their support line and see if they have anything to offer?

 

Plenty of Old stock coil on Ebay

 

I bought a complete Pertronics 3 distributor and a the 3 coil.
Ran 12 volts to eliminate the original resistor wire that killed my engine on hot days.
No more problems, and the mechanical advance is easy to blueprint using their cool weight limiters and springs. Great instructions. Happy now.
And now cold starts are far more friendly with the hot multi fire to my NGK plugs.

 

150 rpm drop is very good. You may need more converter or less cam to end up with the feel you’re looking for.

 

I remember reading your thread. Seems like I was right about the system not liking the heat. I did try an original Delco coil that was loaned to me but, that didn't fix the problem. I have measured resistance of at least 5 different coils cold medium and hot and the resistance on most were within the LL spec. They like to say it's only the Buicks that have a problem but, I doubt that. That's the reason I decided to change ignitions. Also to get the rev limiter to protect this expensive stroker motor.

 

Rob, I like the "feel" OK just not the stalling part in hot weather. I've got Jim's 9 1/2 converter that everyone likes so much and hate to go with more stall than the 2800-3000 I have now. I've grown really fond of it. My GS is a 90% street machine so, more stall isn't in the cards for me. Appreciate the thought, though.

 

^ Sorry Ray, I misunderstood, I thought you didn't like the feel of the engagement (park to drive). Have you tried running a new/temporary ignition wire? I've a few times were the spade is loose in the block and causes intermittent running.

 

No worries, Rob. The reason I don't like the engagement from park to reverse or drive is because I have to have the neutral RPM around 1100 so the engine will idle in gear around 950. The transmission, with whatever shift kit is in it, bangs rather harshly into gear at that RPM. If I lower the idle RPM down to 900 or so, when the engine is running cool, it will shift into gear smoothly but, then it won't idle in drive when the motor warms up. Crazy problem.

But, the motor is smooth as silk and power is excellent. It has gone 12.20 @ 110 here at home with worn posi clutches. The posi and axles will be serviced next week.

 

The Lectric limited will not run properly when the ohms exceed 1.8 from the coil. As coils get hot they put out even more ohms than they should sometimes. Pertronix makes a 1.5 ohm coil that solves this problem. Stock coils usually have less than 1.8 ohms, however, cheap coils tend to exceed their specs when hot. Unfortunately, I didn't know all this when I installed the Lectric limited, even though it mentions it in the instructions.

 

Or install a Genuine GM HEI in good condition and curved to suit the application, and leave all those problems behind.

 

I’ve seen their spec and spoken with them several times. I also tried several OEM DELCO coils that measured right at 1.8 ohms AFTER being in the hot engine bay.problem was better but with ac on this past summer it would still stall at traffic lights. By the way, this winter with temps below 70 most of the time, stalling issue is ALMOST gone.

I like your suggestion Larry and might try that.

 

Yes, but wouldn’t allow the car in BSA. I wish Dave Ray was still making his small cap HEI distributor. That would solve all my problems.

 

I don't think a GM HEI would keep you out of BSA. Maybe Patrick will see this this and chime in, or PM him and ask him.

 

Pertronix distributor small stock cap is what I bought. Looks very stock. I dont know if the 3rd wire is stock appearing legal, but if colored black it may go unnoticed.