CONTROL ARM BRACES: Don't leave home without'em

Sailbrd asked:
Any rule of thumb on adjusting the right arm? Like shorten if it steps to the right.

I can't be 100 percent sure, but I think my last control arm adjustment was to correct a slight pull to the right. I backed off the right side adjustment nut one flat.
I like to keep the right side as tight as possible without launching crooked so I keep a slight preload on right side. Seems to work good without the use of air bags.
(Set pinion angle on the left upper control arm. Set slight preload on the right upper control arm)

Preload on adjustable BRACES, is to tighten the one side more than the other. This is not related to the axle, only frame to crossmember. Don't know how useful this is, but pulling one side of the cross member forward with an ADJUSTABLE BRACE may have some similar function especially of you have non adjustable upper control arms. There should be instructions come with adjustable braces.

 

If your car sits low (9" or less at front and rear of rocker panels with 26" tires) these preload settings, and everything else traction-wise, works better.
Read...
http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=213538

 

I was just looking at the Edelbrock design and thinking about just welding them in. Can anyone think of a reason not to?

 

Heat might weaken the strength of the metals.
Try STAR WASHERS for the braces that have slots on one end.

 

While this could be a problem with chrome moly, I have no fear of this with mild steel that is MIG welding. As for star washers, I have never seen one for such a large diameter bolt. Where would I get such a thing?

 

Don't know about the sizes of star washers.

Weld a washer to the bracket if you think it is safe.
If you have adjustable upper control arms, release the pressure on the passenger side to get the bracket length set for welding. Then put a touch of preload back into the adjustable control arm.
Leave the drivers side alone to hold correct pinion angle.

 

I have considered this option.

 

Anyone know if the wagon has these factory or not? I will check mine tomarrow to see.

Tim

 

My 70 Stage 1 has factory stock boxed rear lowers, and boxed factory uppers with stock bushings, and it has the factory braces and a factory rear sway bar. Nothing else except adjustable shocks. 1.37 60 foot time with no trouble.

The factory made some good stuff. :Comp:

 

Just checked the wagon. I does not have the braces. I guess that is something to put on the add list. Anyone know if the aftermarket braces will fit a wagon?

Tim

 

Looks like Edelbrock changed their design.

Here is the old one:



Here is the new one:

 

The ones I have from Edelbrock look like the 2nd ones but not adjustable.

 

I finally decided on UMI. They were on EBay for $79.95 from UMI with free shipping.

During the mock-up, I noticed something that I think they should change for the better. I have attached a picture where the brace attaches to the upper control arm mount. In looking at this design, I cannot figure out why they did not locate the bar closer to control arm mounting tab. Having it a 1/2 inch away just ads addition leverage and invites extra stress from the resulting deflection.

 

i have a set for sale, i paid 99.99 plus shipping for them through summit but will get rid of them of 85 shipped

 

I just installed mine today and was wondering the same thing. It went pretty smooth on the install.

 

After noticing this design issue, I started looking at other companies offering more closely. If I had to do over again, I would pick the Global West. They are twice the money, but by far the best design. Here is a pic:

 

Nice Jim! Certainly does show the factory stuff works.:beer

 

I can't make up my mind. I have the Hotchkis 1402 braces, Global West TS-82 braces, and will have Edelbrock 5211's tomorrow. What I do not like about the ones I have now (and prob Edelbrock also) are the BOLTS. The smooth part is too fat to go through the frame holes easily. Factory bolts have that 'raised' area near the head of the bolt which makes it easier to get the bolt started, at least on my factory style bolts.

Hotchkis included nuts are huge compared to GW's, GW's have fine threads, but the bolts fit very nice and snug on the GW braces, whereas Hotchkis is sloppier. However, my GW ones appear rusted inside the holes, whereas Hotchkis are nice and powdercoated.

Overall, the GW ones are the nicest. If I can find suitable bolts (ones that I don't have to hammer into the frame before I even get to thread a nut on... I will prob keep and use the GW's. My $0.02c.

 

if anyone is wanting some control arm braces, i got UMIS that i'll let for a nice price

 

Wow, the two pictures you have posted show a different design from the current pictures both companies have on their website. When did you purchase those?