Cooling issue on idle; waterpump(?) combo(?)

Many decades ago (in a different world), I had a parts man in Cambridge Massachusetts, that was a genius at crossing parts, He had a bunch of books, and you had to give him a moment, but he would produce unbelievable crosses that worked 100%.

 

Ok Larry I can get you the make and part number when I get home tonight. It's sitting on my bench.
I may be able to look it up to see what application it is used for, I'll have to see what my search reveals.

 

Here are the photo's I have of the thermostat I picked up.
I think I got the photo's uploaded correctly.

 

www.napaonline.com lists that thermostat as fitting various Mopar vehicles from 1998 to 2010. Made by MotoRad in Israel.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/THM378190?impressionRank=1






Earlier today, I replaced the thermostat on my '88 K1500. The previous (195) thermostat wouldn't let the engine get above 160, and it took forever to get that warm. I put in a CarQuest 205 thermostat that didn't say "MotoRad" on the box, but did say "Made in Israel". So I guess I got a MotoRad, too.

 

Well, the new pump is installed. I hope it won't leak. The thread of the upper big bolt on the passenger site (which goes into the cooling jacket) is almost worn out... can tighten it, but not very much. So I used Hylomar on both sides of the gasket. I'll let it cure and test it tomorrow.

 

You'd have been better-off to have repaired the damaged thread while it was apart.

 

If the bolts just have no thread on them, replacing the bolts or cleaning, building them up and recutting new thread on them might improve the situation without removing the timing case.

 

Yes, I really don't want to do that, unless it is the only option left.

The tip of the bolt is very questionable -thinner also - and the new pump is also thicker. When I insert the bolt there is only 1/8th of an inch travel possible, so it doesn't engage far (enough) in the thread, so unfortunately it leaks. Whereas the old pump didn't.

What size bolt is needed there? When I measure the total length of the bolt it is 118 mm; that is 4.65". What strange length is that? I'm actually contemplating to buy a threaded rod and fasten the pump with a nut.

 

I think that Todd at Stage Won has those. I know that earlier this year he was waiting on more to come in, though.

https://www.stage1restoration.com/?s=water+pump

 

I'll buy something in Europe. But that's meh also. You guys can buy these things in hardware stores, but we have only metric here. So I have to order it specially on the interwebs...

 

What about these guys:

https://boltport.com/supply-region/netherlands/

I would see what Todd can do also. He's an excellent guy to deal with and might have way to ship those?

If you need to buy a bolt that's too long and cut it down that is another possibility...

 

It turns out that this company is 5 minutes away from my work:

https://www.techniekwebshop.nl/draa...8-unc-1000-mm-verzinkt-31-kg-100-din-975.html

I'll give them a visit during lunch break on Monday. 30 bucks for 3 feet...
But I've got the idea that a stud would work better in case the thread in the engine isn't 100% either.

 

Take a screwdriver or a straight piece of small rod and measure how deep the hole is and get a bolt close to that. You could even use several washers to shim the bolt if need be. That way you might get to some virgin threads.

 

Other question, how much coolant should be added? I have no overflow tank. Should I just top it? Will it automatically spill out what is too much? - that always happened to me.

 

Thank you. Yes I know, I've seen the bulletin. Might actually do that.

 

Many radiators--intended for use without a recovery tank--have an embossed "Full" level stamped into the tank by the rad cap.