Looks like the 300 rods are cast. So better rods are in order. The Leyland 6.25 rods are nice, but the same problem applies there as with 350 buick rods. With stock stroke, nearly stock piston height, more than 6 inches puts the piston through the roof. Dan LaGrou's valve sizes were for the 300 aluminum head, the valves for the iron 300 head are 1.812 and 1.375. Anyone know of a forged factory rod that could be had for the 300? Did the 75-77 231 come with forged rods ? Or should I try the milled 327 rods?
Crud. I can't find a definitive answer on forged/cast rods for the 300. I know the 225 rods were armalloy, so as stout as the 300 rod looks, it's more than likely also a cast pearlitic malleable iron rod. I would love to hear that the 75-77 V6 rods were forged pieces, but so far no info. So far, best bet seems to be SCAT brand forged steel 2"journal chevy rods, 6" long, at ~$250 a set. That ain't bad!
Brian, T&D Machine in Nevada makes roller rocker assemblies for the 215 that can be used on the 300 heads. Mark
Will the roller rockers from T&D machine fit under the stock valve covers? If not, I have never seen any aftermarket valve covers for a 300--have you? YOu wouldn' t happen to have the contact info for T&D machine would you?
T&D Machine 4859 Convair Drive Carson City, NV 89706 775-884-2292 As far as I know, Offenhauser is the only aftermarket valve cover. It is taller than the stock 300 covers
Greg, Thanks for that pointer. I've had the D&D catalog sitting on a shelf for a while and just never thought to look there. Going to the local machine shop this afternoon to see if they can do the job. Checked again with Venolia. The forging they use for the 215-350 Buick is just a plug that they machine to buyer's specs. No problem moving the pin boss up .037" and machine to pin boss to accomodate use of 6.00" Chevy rods. Mark
Brian, I don't to be honest with you. I think they may fit under the taller 1964-65 round top style covers, but the later square top style are shorter, I believe. Mark
Thanks for your help. I will call them and get more information about the rockers. Sounds like they may be just what I have been looking for.
Brian: Some of the various Leyland and Rover v8 valve covers fit, D&D could tell you which. Do you need -roller- rockers? If pushrods are wearing thru your stock alum rockers, maybe steel 350 buick rockers ? They're a stamped steel part, wear longer, but have different retaining setup on the shaft. TAPerformance has roller rockers at ~$500 set, stamped steel for ~$150. Wonder which MOPAR rockers would interchange....
So guys! Whats the final answer? Is there a long rod that can be used in a 300? I've got mine tore apart right now and have to decide to rebuild stock or try some thing like the long rod / short piston idea!!! Does anyone know of a site that will explain in detail all the benefits or drawbacks of using a long rod. Or does anyone know what kind of tq increase would be involved??? Have to make a decision before too long so I better get set straight in the planning stages.:TU:
I guess the correct answer will depend on what your goal is. Max RPM, boost pressure, cost. Are you looking at a naturally aspirated engine running max hp, damn the expense? Call Dan LaGrou at D&D, have him fix you up some forged 6" by 2" 283/327 rods, order a set of eight KB forged 231 slugs. This is also the route I would go for a blown motor. The chebby rod is .040 longer, and you can easily get that much less piston height. The shorter forged pistons will be lighter, too. For more cost savings, duplicate Sean Etson's 300 using stock rods. He's had some damn good runs with it. Lots of people run cast rods in fast cars. The sky's the limit, or your budget.
Sorry guys but I don't know how to post this as a direct link but check: http://au.geocities.com/p76cortina/P76intotc.html It's about a P76 engine (Australia's tall deck 215) but it might have some useful info about intake manifolds.
Here's an $1200 answer to the 7,000 rpm question. Manley SBC forged rods #14107 = $529. Venolia forged piston with pin relocated .037"#7810 flat top = $431 or #7820 stock dish = $481. Machine shop set up and milling rods = $160. Balancing = $200.
Well I guess my goal is to have a 300 that looks stock but will run real strong. I've heard the "put a 350 in it" BS and every time I do, I guess I get a little more offended or stubborn and want to make this 300 turn on real good. I guess I would be pretty happy with close to 1HP per ci. Just have to figure out the most logical route. So what does every one think, if YOU where building a 300HP, 300ci buford and trying to keep it some what stock looking what would you do. No blowers, nitrous, or power adders! 300 @ the pedal! When finished I plan on painting the engine the stock green color, and just for show a set of offy valve covers but beyond that stock looking. P.S. No offence to 350 owners ! I just like something a little different.
300hp? The factory answer was 4bbl carb and higher compression, (how much can your fuel bill can stand?) To start cheap, get a better ignition, (pertronix with hotter coil) Then go for better breathing efficiency with a more modern cam grind, maybe get a better intake, (lots of options, but all are for other engines, have to be modified to fit the 300) You could also use larger valves, some head porting, port matching. And, of course, that higher compression. If that doesn't get you there.... Higher rpm, with lightweight forgings at the lower end, and possibly valve spring and rocker upgrades. The tough part is building it right, for example, don't kill your low end torque with too much high-rpm. Some others have more specific ideas about what to use, your best bet is probably to educate yourself about what it takes to get to your goal, and beware advice. If "Everybody" knows product XYZ makes lots of power, it's probably because XYZ corp spent a lot on marketing.
I understand what you mean about the 350. I hear how much easier it is to build a 350 buick, but I have a 300hp/350cid chevy with only 20k on it on a stand right next to my Buick. Tell ME what's the easy fix? To build the 300, you'll have to look into some different ideas. My chevy had performance heads put on. Can't do that with the 300, but for less money, you could do some minor porting and polishing, and get bigger valvesSure, you (You could do that with the '64 aluminum heads, but I'd go with iron, they seal better, and flow better stock.) Intakes you can't get. but some pretty good authorities on similar engines, the Leyland V8s, say the factory iron 4bbl is one of the best dual-plane intakes for the engine. It takes more homework on what parts give what effect, and less nosing through aftermarket catalogs. But isn't it more fun to plan BUILDING an engine from a blue print than just bolting together the magazine-prescribed kit?
Well I think I'm going to go with forged TRW 350 pistons, get the stock rods cleaned up, heads ported a little, a custom ground cam, a better ignition system, and dual exhaust and hope for the best! It won't be 300 HP but I could always give her a little drink of juice. I already have a 200R4 and plan on 3.55 or 3.73 gears so it should be a better all around driver than it ever was stock.
