K my friend has told me that a good primer is ppg, dupon, and matrix is okay. also he told me to allow the primer two days to dry cause it dry's outside in. now with the primer wet sand it lightly with a 900 grit sand paper so make it smooth. then coat with paint, is there a particualr name brand for paint that is good? also my friend said to spend some money on a good clear coat so it wont turn yellow he said to apply 4 clear coats cause your going to end up wet sanding about 2 off and then buffing another 1/2 off leaving you with about 1 and a 1/2 coats of clear over it when completely done. if you guys have any insight on anything it would be greatly appriciated. thanks in advance guys.
I have some insight..........don't listen to your friend......LOL....... PPg - duppont are great top end paints.......he is right there. Who is painting your car??? Is this the friend? You don't sand primer with 900 grit - you sand it with 180 to level it. than you reaply primer and sand it again with 300 - 600 depending on the base. This MUST be done by hand and with blocks. How are you preping the old paint?? You DON't apply 4 coats of clear if the spec sheets for that product call for 3 coats - unless you really know what you are doing. You clear should be of the same company and line as your base. Your freind that is painting this car should know Does't have to be 80 or 50 or humid or dry - these paints dry by chemical reaction - wheather doesn't have much to do with it - unless its extreme
does ppg and dupon make paint also or are they better primers was just trying to get some insight before the paint shop so i have a idea of what i need also no friend is not painting i have a few mexicans that just painted my uncles 57 chevy and it looks good but just wanted it to be perfect thanks bro
k so was talking to the paint shop guy and he said do one coat of primer wet sand if any metal shows reprimer, the wait for factor dry specifications then start the paint he said go in nice easy motions not to slow but not to fast to miss a spot. then he was saying that 2 layers of clear is fine i believe he said 3 is okay also does this sound bout right. just trying to get a rough idea whats going on here
I have never heard of laying one coat of primero No: . Most applications call for 3 coats of primer to get a good build up. Most don't wet sand the first application - dry sand with 180 and a guide coat to let you see the low spots. Before you do this go over the car and address all the dings with filler and take care of all the rust or bad spots. How are you prepping the old paint?
I'm getting ready to strip and prep my car to paint. The Camaro, not the Buick. Figured I'd start with and practice on a chebby first. Anyway, I was told that the primer "Slick Sand" is great stuff and really does a great job smoothing out minor imperfections in metal.
If youre not sure, go talk to the guys at NAPA or some autobody supply store, they know what they are talking about. Tell them what youre trying to accomplish, and be truthful, they will recommend the right stuff for you. Bottom line, ITS ALL IN THE PREP WORK. Thats what makes the car look shiny and straight. And ofcourse it helps if youre somewhat competent using a paint gun as well. I used Nason products on my car last year. I did all the prep and paint work myself except for the clear coat (<---big mistake, i had alot of runs to fix). Nason is a sub brand of Dupont, and its their cheaper stuff. I used a Base/Clear 2 stage black paint. As many coats of primer as i could get out of the thing (was almost 4 i think). Sanded that nice and smooth. Then 3 coats of base, and 3+1 coat of clear. (+1 was to fix the runs). When you actually spray the paint, put down a bucket of water all over the floor, or the dust will stick to your car. Humid or super hot doesnt matter too much. 80 sounds nice though. Just dont do alot of sanding on bare metal and stuff when its too humid.
Slick sand is great stuff - it lays on real thick (use 2.2 tip) sands easily and can really help getting a panel straight. Hit it good with atleast 180 or 80 grit to level it. Too many guys get "smooth" confused with "straight". You cant get a car straight with 400 grit - you need a more agressive grit to nock the highs down. The higher grit papers just ride over the high spots and never cut them down. Always use as big a block as the panel allows. After the slicksand - 3 coats of reg primer - then use your higher grits to get smooth
I am in Arizona thanks for the idea your friend had some Mexicans paint a 57 chebby I have lots of 57 chebbys in Arizona that need paint and I think there might be a few Mexicans here to maybe if their fast enough I,ll just have a bodyshop with a drive thru you know how those Mexicans and chebbys just go together now do you want a number one with or without clear
i really just want some good mexican food but they said they will through in a paint job to so i guess i got a deal on some sweet tacos
No - more like 6 coats of primer / slicksand - but most of it gets sanded off when you block it - the final buildup is not that thick. This is the only way to get a panel straight - unless it is perfect to start with.
Here's a `68 GTO I just painted a couple weeks ago, and the procedure: Obviously, get the bodywork as straight as you can. 3 coats of Nason 421-19 urethane primer, block sand dry with 180, 3 more coats of primer, block sand with 400 wet. I used Dupont Chroma One single stage urethane on this one because it isn't metallic. 4 coats of paint(no clear), block sand with 1000 grit, then again with 1500 and again with 2000 and buff. It's a lot of work and time consuming but the amount of time you are willing to spend on it depends on how nice you want the finished product to look.
For whatever reason the pictures came out a little wiggly here after the conversion but not in my actual photos. Surface is glass smooth and looks as nice as any clearcoat job I've ever done. And the ChromaOne sprays nice and lays down great, making the final color sanding a much easier job. Something to consider if you're doing a solid color.