Getting started on my first paint job. Do I have questions!

I'm no painter at all but I would guess everyone would like to know what equipment you plan to spray with? I would take it you have a compressor(oil & water free), paint booth or not, gun type, etc??

 

Good one Todd.

 

I have a 30x40 shop that I’ve built a “paint booth” in. It’s a steel building, so I have used a cable rope, several hundred feet of 4 mil plastic sheeting and 2x4’s as anchors on the floor.
I have an upright 3hp 60 gallon compressor. I drain it regularly and have a new water trap to use when I paint. I have 3/8” hose that I use only to paint with. Thats never been behind an oiler. I don’t recall the the brand of paint guns I bought. I bought a detail gun at a paint store a few years ago. I’ve used it to shoot a couple of frames with good results. I just bought a new big gun at NAPA. Both are HVLP. The big gun has a 1.3 tip I believe. I live in the high desert region of New Mexico, it is very dry here. My plan includes lots of patience and taking no shortcuts. I went to a paint supply store yesterday to pick up some products that were recommended by members in this thread. The manager “Cesar” was very helpful. I am ready to power wash the car this weekend and start getting it down to metal. My plan is to get the body tub prepared and in epoxy and a could of coats of hi build, then work on the bolt on items. Once it’s all at the same spot I will put the body on the frame, align the panels and get busy with priming and sanding. I appreciate all of the input to my questions. Thanks, Allen

 

Do yourself a favor and buy a cheap paint gun with bigger tip size for primer. High build primer can be pretty thick, and now knowing your in New Mexico it will definitely help you lay it down better.

I keep these around for primer. Economical enough.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1-8mm-...472347&hash=item2109d63992:g:8XEAAOSwzgRWuQjg

HVLP -High Volume Low Pressure meaning high volume of product with low air pressure.

 

is there good epoxy primer available in a rattle can? i use it so sporadically that it would not make sense to buy a gallon or even a quart.

 

No, because epoxy has to be activated, and once activated it is going to harden

 

Sikkens I believe has a 2part epoxy rattle can it has a second chamber in the bottom of the can, push the pin and it releases the activator. They kinda expensive but convenient at certain times.

 

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-2k-aerospraytm-epoxy-primer-gray-black.html?mrkgcl=764&mrkgadid={_mrkgadid}&rkg_id=h-df6e3f3c6e677b2a77257a30e58a5546_t-1514729687&product_id={product_id}&adpos={adposition}&creative={creative}&device={device}&matchtype={matchtype}&network={network}&SRCCODE=PLA00020&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5OHAvbe02AIVD7bACh0bJgmREAQYAiABEgIYpvD_BwE

 

USC has it in their "Spraymax" line also

 

Call SPI (Southern Polyurethanes Inc)
Ask for thier catalog, it has a section titled, "the perfect paintjob" . It will answer alot of your questions . Be aware that etch primers don't play well with some epoxy primers. I recommend using thier epoxy primer , it can be used as finish on the frame and suspension component's, interior trunk, etc. JIM

 

Thanks for all of the information!

 

Hey look old dawg here, didn't realize they had cans like that. ⬇️

HOPE all goes great for you ON your paint job,

 

I have started, I power washed the car last night and let it dry. I’ve started taking the paint off with my 6” DA and 40 grit. Is what everyone does? Is there a better way, short of blasting. I have a 60 gallon compressor and it struggles to keep up. Looks like a new on is on the horizon. Thanks, Allen

 

If I was going to do mine again, I would want to try this:

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2590

I haven't ever used it, but I have read favorable reviews. I used a combination of DA 60 and 80 grit plus wire wheel.

 

I have been using a 6" and 8" DA with 36 grit.

Edit...
It took a whole day for me to DA this hood. I really thought it was going to be easy. Found out it wasnt. lol

I put my buddy to work.

 

Aircraft paint stripper, use razor blade and scrape 80-90% of paint and primer off. Stay away from seams with stripper. Wash well, then DA.....Jim

 

immediately after applying the stripper lay plastic over it. it'll keep it from drying. let it sit for a full day and the paint will all fall off.

 

Gotta have good compressor to run a DA or Hog. I've never used much stripper, just not my preference. The dustless blasting looks to be good option, DO NOT have it soda blasted, it does something to the metal and paint doesn't like to stick to it over time. And obviously no sand blasting. Stripping cars is not fun and very time consuming, I generally figure $1k to $1500 in labor to strip one

 

I’m on a budget, I know a guy that does the dustless blasting, but it would be around 2K. I don’t mind upgrading my compressor. It does ok, I just have to stop and let it catch up from time to time.
I’ve heard that about soda blasting, I had a car soda blasted 22 years ago and the paint still looks great. Thanks for the input.

 

Wow, didn't know about the soda/paint issue - Strange. Was thinking about either that or dry ice blasting.