The race track bug! I’m thinking of stuff to beat Guy! No not nitrous Little tweaks, I was thinking of my last build, and comparing the differences to this one with slightly more compression and my home ported heads. Here’s what I surmised: My total timing is 33 degrees now My total timing USED to be 38 degrees My best 60’ before was 1.9 My best 60’ Friday was 1.89, not a huge improvement, but it’s a move in the right direction. I’m going to disregard my first pass as the mixed 110 and pump 93 didn’t make it to the engine yet, hence the reason I heard the engine rattle on the first pass, and not quite 100 mph and only 13.50. I learned something from that, put your race gas in to mix with your pump fuel BEFORE the track, just a couple miles before will work. Anywho, I bested my previous best by .05 and bested my 60’ by .1 all with LESS total timing. Do I attribute that to the slight .6 or so bump in compression from 11.1 to 1 to 11.66 or 11.9? I would say no. I’m going to say it’s my home porting on my iron heads that Stevem guided me on “Don’t hog em out, keep the velocity high” It needing race gas now at the track I attribute to the compression increase, and the slightly better 60’ I’m curious what another 2 degrees of timing would do I know it would definitely help the 60 foot, but will it do anything for MPH????? Are there any tracks open for TNT on Sundays
Dont expect much of anything from timing at this point To be honest youre saddled with a cid vs weight situation now Youre around 375hp based on your mph So....youre either gonna have to gear it to a 373 or 410 or help it with n20 to see any real gain The most rewarding would be 373 with a 200r4 trans...that would get you a 1.70 60ft..which would get you high 12s....lot of money for a few tenths tho More cam and more rpm are another route...but then youre gonna need more gear too
When trying to go faster... unfortunately big bites is the only way to feel validation.....i say....put a 125 hit on it..on a micro switch and let it eat Your reward will be a 11.80 at 115mph
"The Bug" can never be cured. It can only go into remission for a time. It's a fatal disease some of us are born with. As hugger said, you need to start trying to free up some horsepower by reducing weight. Unsprung weight like wheels helps more than anything pound for pound. What about your suspension? Are you hooking good? If not, there's a place to tune a little more into it. 90/10 front shocks, an air bag in the right rear, an HRParts rear sway bar, a 0° toe/0° camber front end alignment so your tires are perfectly straight going down the track. The biggest, skinniest tire you can fit on the front to make your rollout longer so the clock starts a tick later. Again, as hugger said, any real gains are going to cost you something. More gear is one way. N2O is another. Combine them and see a huge difference with the least amount of work. What RPM and gear are you coming across the line at? You can change tire size or gear to get your trap RPM to be where you want. I'd shoot for redline at the 1320 mark. Lots of folks have good luck coming across in 2nd gear instead of losing the momentum with the 2-3 gear shift if your gears are too numerically low let you gain in 3rd gear.
Yeah the weight issue IS an issue! The only weight reduction I can do is remove my spare tire, Jack, and few tools I take with me. My goal is getting my almost 2 ton GS with 3.42 gear and T-350 trans as quick as it can go with the 350. Yes, the cost wouldn’t justify the outcome, Probably like the aluminum heads I was going to get, they would have been near 5 grand all in including shipping, I’d be REALLY pissed if I was still in the 13’s after all that! I think I’d throw up!! Yeah I get obsessed on things, gotta keep trying! My suspension is all stock. IIRC I’m not even at 5 grand at the end, IF I left it in second I’d probably be over 7 grand
The kick in the nuts was it ran faster, and the engine sounded happy on the second pass after the race gas and 93 pump mix made it to the carb, I was getting pumped after that run, “ Ok, now it’s working” But it’s dark already, I’m tired, then having to wait who knew how long for a third pass.
Or even a 30 in if need be.....i say go to a 390 gear....60ft will drop almost 2 tenths...that alone will net you almost 4tenths on the big end....high way cruise rpm will only increase about 600....then you will poised to get a 200r swapped in ...THEN youll have something a 350 desperately needs tq multiplication
Suspension doest drop 60ft times...it manages power..not an issue with a 350 on a drag radial Dont waste money on suspension stuff....stock abody suspension is plenty sufficient till you hit mid 11s
It sounds like you are close to getting the most out of your combo... but I would take a step back and before aiming the money gun... Do you have any track video? Is the Holley jetted/tuned correctly? What do your spark plugs look like? You mentioned timing... and better flowing heads may be happier with a A/F change. Have room for a spacer under the carb? Any spin at launch? Can you leave harder? Open the headers? Loosen the front sway bar?
I feel like with iron heads..moderate comp...moderate cam...342 gear...youre probably at the end of its capability...on paper..yea i could convince myself it should be 12.70s But full weight...342 gear..and moderate build parameters....its where it is within a tenth or so imo You put a 3800 or 4k stall and 410 gear...sure it will go mid low 12s...but you loose the street car part of its dna Thats why car guys build two cars haha...one no frills get it done with no comprises..then dual purpose street car.....the cure.....n20....gives you both
A 700r would be a good choice to..they have a constant psi valve body now...3.06 first gear iirc One thing to remember is it takes X amount of hp to produce X 60ft given weight.....so 375hp will only produce a 1.70 60ft in 3700lb
I have a tapered 4 hole spacer under the carb. No spin on launch No open headers, their 1 7/8 TA Super Comps, 2.5” exhaust.
I had considered that at the time it was suggested by a few members here when Vince Janis rebuilt my T-350 a few years ago, but didn’t think the slight ratio increase from 2.52 to 2.75 would be worth it verses the cost. I DID upgrade to a better sprag ( 34 or 36, can’t remember LOL) and better clutches and steels.
Ok, I’ll take you up on that! Curious if it will make a difference either way! I’ll pm you my address
Get rid of your a/c like Guy did, or at least remove the belt. Play with timing a bit. Fine tune carb too. Seems that 413 cam and those expensive Johnson lifters aren't enough. Electric water pump maybe. Guy says the Dragy is spot on. I did a 1/4 run on street blacktop with it. 1.96 60', spinning, @35.96 mph. 8.60 @ 83.28 1/8th, 13.34 @ 103.82 1/4. Just one run and go hide from the neighbors I haven't tuned crap yet on this setup. Was at 37* timing, dropped it to 35*. Iron heads are hogged out, (swept up abt 15lbs of iron) but it still seems to get up and go. Need to practice different shift points, launches, etc. Now, if you had a 4spd with 8" slicks and dumped clutch at 4k, oh baby!
