Trying to reinstall transmission without a lift alone. I can get it on the jack when it's not under the car but it won't roll under it. When it's under the car I can't get it on the jack. Car is as high as I'm comfortable with. I did not get the $200 tranny jack because it's about the same hieght as my life profile jack. Any recommendations before I tow it to a shop?
The only option I see is to get bigger jack stands so you can get the car higher. That has to cost less than the tow to a shop and the labor to install the transmission. It's a fun job doing it on your back, NOT!
Cut the dining room table into 16" squares. Put 2 pieces under each jack stand alternating wood grain 90deg.
Yep, SUV jack stands are your friend. 6-Ton ones should be about 24" tall. Not a fan of Harbor Freight for all things, but they have their place. I wouldn't buy their Pittsburgh brand of jacks and jack stands, but the Daytona stuff is quite good. https://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton...ands-black-58342.html?_br_psugg_q=jack+stands (They have a 20% coupon at this weekend). I just sold a pair of these Big Red 6-Ton ones, and they were solid too. https://www.amazon.com/Torin-Big-Steel-Jack-Stands/dp/B002E1AYKY?th=1
I have used a floor jack and box (did some mods on the "rails" on the top of the "box" for the curves on the transmission to cradle better, after I took the pics) done several TH400, T-10, TREMEC installs, removals (with and without Gear Vendors OD attached to the T-10) in both my 64 and 68 by myself, and I'm collecting Social Security... I use two sets of "Rhino" drive up ramps on four corners, set one 180 degrees from the other in front and in back so they act as chocks. (I pushed, shoved and shook the car as hard as I could to see if I could get it to move.) Also makes setting drive angles easier.(had one car setting on them for months, and they never deform. I jack the car, set them, and lower. I either strap it on the jack, (manual trans) and can clear the car. Or sliding (pulling) the transmission (auto) under the car on a heavy painter drop cloth, then used 1x4 and 2x4 blocks to "crib" the transmission so I could get the jack under it, then strap it. (stock pan, I used the "box", ribbed deep aluminum pan, just set it on the jack pad). I get the trans in place and raised and located just enough to lift the converter on and seat the converter, and the tailshaft and tunnel hold the transmission. Makes it easier to balance and manage without the converter adding weight while getting the transmission staged.
I meant to add that I did the "cribbing" by starting with the transmission sitting under the car and then alternate lifting the transmission, tail than front and slipping in a board at a time, to slowly "raise" it to get it high enough to roll the jack under. With the manual transmissions without the Gear Vendors I was able to strap to the "box" and then roll it up about 45 degree angle, and then push the jack pad up next to the box and roll the transmission/box up onto the pad. (Used my leg to pump the jack handle). No, I did not ever video that. I have a little pride and dignity left, and I want to keep it... The manuals are bit easier to manage, the TH400 just has too much moment going on with the bell housing, and it ended up sliding off before I could get it steady. (with the Race Deck flooring, the transmission didn't suffer) but I would not want to do that on a concrete floor.
My solo trans install procedure was much the same. I had a wooden adaptor made to fit my floor jack and the TH400 pan so it wouldn't slip, and already had the car quite a way up in the air on stands. But, this was somewhere around 1989 or '90. In 1990 I was 23 and even though slim, had quite a bit more transmission wrestling ability than I have now. I don't think I'd attempt the same procedure by myself today. With another's help? I'd give it a go. Devon
There's no shame in asking for help, when one needs it. On the contrary... No BS, when I was 20 years old, (back in the 70s) I "ooched" under my car with a 4 speed on my stomach, in the Florida Panhandle sand (in a trailer park in Shalimar FL) and lifted and stabbed it two different times, just "lift and stab". Same car my first wife and I carried a short block Olds 330, from the back room on that trailer where I assembled it, down 4 steps, and 40 feet to a mattress in front of the car. But, I was doing things in the USAF in aircraft maintenance, and it just seemed like "same stuff, different day". Only now, all these years later do I understand the strength and potential of youth, properly motivated and applied. I just am too stubborn and proud to quit, or not try before admitting I can't. But, a man has to know (and accept) when he can't or when he can't. And realize there is no shame in that day. I'll seek help when I need it. I was brought up and trained by great men (and women), and I have not disappointed them. Do it for love. Do it for ideals. Do it for those who did not survive. Do it for the future. Do it because it must be done. Do it for anything but yourself. And after all of that, do it for yourself. Some understand. Some wonder...
Well said. Oh, and forgot to mention, the one-footed floor jack raise while one is in the middle of the solo is an art unto itself... Devon
I should have bought a transmission jack 10 years ago, but thought I would only be doing it once. LOL Now, with two manual cars, it is on my otter list. ("I otter git one") Safer, easier. That's enough.
My God Guys lets just keep it simple... TWO ratchet straps is all you need. I prefer this style. https://www.harborfreight.com/set-o...EaL6VhPAXh2HGdwEwgep26XnIurT_ExkaAt10EALw_wcB Loop them over the frame. Now use them to lift the trans.. Slid jack under trans. Remove straps when complete..
Many times I have set the trans on the jack (without the convertor), Grab the tail shaft and raise it so the bell housing end lowers while shoving trans and jack under the car.
I made 4 car stands from 2x12 treated wood, I think I have 8 screwed together. They are probably 18 inches long, the top one is longer so I could include wheel chocks. With my 4 ton jack maxed out, the wood stands will just barely slide under the tires. I also made a homemade losing fixture for the transmission. I found a piece of solid steel rod the same diameter as the locating pin for the floor jack saddle. I used a piece of scrap 1/4 steel plate cut in basically the same shape as the transmission pan, with small pieces of angle iron strategically welded in the corners of the pan. Once the car is on the stands, remove the saddle, install the homemade trans holding fixture to the jack. Set the trans on the fixture, the transmission will just barely roll under the car. If it won’t, simply lift the back off the transmission, that will lower the front of the trans hopefully enough to go under the frame/exhaust/whatever. Once under the car, install the converter. The wood stands were expensive to make, but have turned out to be very useful tools. I needed to replace a fuel pump on my dads S-10 pickup, of course the pump failed with a full tank of fuel. I removed the bed instead of the tank to replace the pump. The stands were the perfect height for holding the bed off the ground, protecting the paint.
Before I got a lift I used a solid set of ramps (ramp sections removeable) and this jack. A couple pieces were fitted to the sides of my (always switch pitch TH400) on the floor. I put this fork into the front of a floor jack, and slid it up along the sides of the trans. A couple bolts connecte the side pieces and allowed tilting. I could lift the trans that was on the floor, and scoot it under a (lower position) car only a quarter inch off the ground. To make this work, you can just make out a couple 8' angle irons attached to the jack and heading the opposite direction, a cylinder head out there made a nice counterweight. Had a couple casters under the counterweight. All this got scraped a couple decades ago when I got a place with enough space for a lift. Bruce Roe
