I had my race gas for a year with a good sealed gas can it was ok but I really don't recommend this, I didn't expect to have it that long and was leery of putting it in.
On my last trip out few days ago car running real good Not a dang sound coming from that solid cam. This thing is way quieter than the hydraulic cams I had in there, I expected a lot more noise out of a solid lifter cam than what I am getting from this. I can also tell that there is a lot more power out of hole as it wants to spin those DR's out of hole. I still have the inner spring out so I limit myself to 4500 rpm for now. I should have put this in years ago when I thought about it. I had thought about the TA 112 or the 210s cams but I did not like the lift of the 112 and the 210 had same lifts for intake and exhaust. Not much spread on those. Plus he needs to make these cams at 108 lsa or make one in this area as two of us know that is the sh**! This Schneider cam is rated 2800-6200 so it is right where I want it right in between the TA 510 cam and the Lunati cam I just took out. I think this cam is going to beat both of those, I don't know if that is because it is a solid cam I just know this cam seems to be better all around. Now idle in gear that is another story, it takes some carb tuning to get it just right so it does not stall in gear, especially when you turn the wheel and the power steering has to work, as it will bog the motor down some and with the Vacuum at 5 in drive turning the wheel pulls the vac down and can make the power valve open at the 2.5 vac rating. Sop the idle has to be up high enough to compensate for this and can test you a little. The best way I have found is go out on the highway and drive for about 5 miles go home while it is nice and hot and set the carb idle screws in drive. Right now I have idle down to 725 -750 and in park it is at 1100-1200. I had to put the race gas in to stop the pinging and the timing is back down to 32. The UR5 NGK is almost too hot for the engine so may change this and see what happens. I was running the YR5 plug as this is not extended like the UR5 plug is. pic of YR5 plug
That’s the BEST way to adjust the carb, drive ‘er on the highway get ‘er hot, and settled in, get home, leave ‘er running, put ‘er in park or drive, THEN adjust, if you shut ‘er down then restart, it’s had time to cool, and on restart your going to have raw fuel swimming around
Cam is so freakin radical there aint much adjustment I use that big rpm gauge I have had for long time jumps some now it is at least 40yrs old.
Went for an hour drive yesterday the solid cam is doing great, I can tell that the heads leak some thru the valve guides as I can see it after getting out of gas. other than that no smoke while driving so I am going to put in the second springs at this point and give it a whacking. really need those aluminum heads now I am in a position to get them maybe Demko's old set is still at TA may have to check lol if not I get mine rebuilt again and maybe a little more porting which is what I should do .
Stick with your irons While you have the springs off I’d replace the guide seals, that MAY cure your issue.
Done driving around on single springs going to work on getting those springs in this weekend and see how it goes. new seals won't help my heads out any they were holding the valve as it was when I took the springs out I didn't use any air to hold up the valves the seals were doing it for me. I also had a tool in the spark plug hole to hold the valve up just in case. They really need reworked or the aluminum heads I got time before all that it will let me gather some more cash and there seems to be nothing available at this point so I will just sit it out for a while and run what I have. A better plan would be take it back to the race shop for a redo with better rods and pistons I got all the old stuff forged pistons and 73 rods. I still plan to keep that rpm under 6500 more like 6200 those rods and pistons won't take that real high rpm like Demko and Mart.
Good luck on your spring install, supposed to be only 77 and sunny today, nice weather for wrenching!
I am going to take the carb off and install a screw set up so I can operate the idle of the secondaries, I want to be able to open those a little more so I can close the primaries then I can get those idle jets to be a little more responsive, it is very touchy with the bigger cam now. This is a lot easier doing this on secondaries from the top than trying to get to the screw on the bottom of carb. I am going to change the primary shooter also needs a little more shot there. My brother wants to go to D42 next Friday night for test and tune he has a Mustang with a F1 Procharger in a 347 engine. He said from a roll at 50 mph he pulled 2 cars on a Twin Turbo with the Coyote motor in it. The Turbo Stang goes 9.40@150 so this should be interesting. So I got to work fast
Me too. Secondary topside adjustment. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1920562162...EcNVg3TRSm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Got all the springs back in and all the valves readjusted now I really find out if this going to run ok. Few more things to reconnect and going to look at carb again change shooter in front and install that idle screw for secondary adjustment. My brother and his buddies are already trying to set up a race for me a 428 Cougar to be exact. Bunch of nuts and yes I am the only Buick among these Mustangs and I guess a Cougar now.
Tomorrow Friday at Dragway 42 ready to make a run maybe I can break my old record of 13.31 have not been there since track was rebuilt, I haven't been there in at least 10 years.
After all the time I took to put cam in and get it running paid off , ran a best of 13.28@101.5 did 83 mph in 1/8 which was also faster then at any time. This was my 3rd cam in the engine since I had the engine built in winter/spring 1995, This one in my sig I have to say did the best out of all 3 The Lunati Pop Mechanics cam I bought did do very good it went 13.31 as its best with a turbo 350 trans and a nice kinda loose 3500 stall convertor. The TA 510 cam that went in the motor when rebuilt and had 395 hp on dyno still only let me get to 13.61 using a tighter 3500 convertor, but it needed the 3500 loose convertor I used with the Lunati cam. This cam needs 3500 stall and 410 gears. This Schneider solid lifter cam rocks beats both of the other cams, It has the bottom end the 510 cam did not have and has the top end that the Lunati cam did not have. This might be because of the big open intake of the SP3 or it is that magic 108 LSA that the other two cams did not have. The 510 cam has a LSA of 110 and the Lunati cam had a LSA of 116. Time slips from last nights race at Dragway 42 with new cam my car is #1636
Take the lift of the new Schneider leave that alone and just take 10 numbers off the duration and you can make 3-4 different ranges of power and leave the LSA at 108 for all of them and you would have a kick ars 350 my lift is 528-552 big spread there my duration is 248-258 = race mode 3000-3500 convertor 373 and above gears 238-248 semi race 3000 convertor 373 gears 228-238 solid street 2500 convertor 342-355 gears 218-228 street strip 2000-2500 convertor 308-342 gears might lower lift for this lets go with 498-522 lift these are non roller cams Professor Guy cams lol
Here is the Mart cam lol just for you lol Super Race street why not? LSA 107 lift 548-572 Dur at.050 263-273 solid lifter non roller 410+ gears 3500-4000 stall 12.42 1/4 mi 108mph I know I am full of crap but what the heck so is everyone else lol Have Fun!
