I drove my 64 LeSabre sport coupe today. Started up and ran fine for few miles around town. Second start at the gas station was perfect, fired up with the slightest turn of the key. Third start sounds like a chop saw tearing into a metal stud. Fourth was a little better but still sounded nasty and a little week, also it like it was binding. It’s a new starter installed in 2020. I only drive it a few hundred miles a year so how many starts could it have on it? Junk or something else? Battery was little low, could that cause it to have problems engaging? No clicking sound, just sounded like it does if you leave the key in the start position after it turns over. It’s the high compression wildcat 354 engine if that makes a diff. Aside from the starter issue, its a great running car.
Sounds like starter teeth is not engaged or hitting side of flywheel. Check if it is adjusted correct or maybe it went loose.
I wondered if the bolts could be loose. I’ll get a wrench on there and check. They are not visibly loose. Stock starter. Engine has less than 100k on it.
Got a chance take a closer look. The starter casing is cracked. I assume from some kind of binding or bad install? what could cause that after 400 miles of operation?
Low octane fuel, or old fuel? I always put in premium, this car has the original high compression aluminum heads. It had sat a while so fuel was likely bad. I’m pretty sure the timing is ok but I can check that - when I get a new starter… Any brand preferences out there? I was considering an AC Delco Gold reman starter.
As long as the starter is not struggling to crank it, the timing should be ok ( no excessive initial timing) Bad/old gas won’t cause your starter crack issue. Bad gas will cause it to run crappy, or not at all. Get a new starter, make double sure the mounting pad on the block is clean, do not use air tools to install, lift starter, start one bolt, rest, then lift again to start other bolt, run ‘em up using a 3/8’s ratchet, while wiggling starter to make sure your not cocking it. Then do final tighten using your 3/8’s ratchet. Don’t ask me the torque spec I don’t know I just tighten em On the starter recommendation, use a mini starter, MUCH easier to handle while installing! Or just use a stock replacement. I’m sure someone here knows what mini starter would work for you.
There was a thread recently about mini starters. Page 4 https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/my-new-tsp-sleeper-482-stroker-motor.376948/page-4 Many folks use the LT starter. Also check the set up. You need to shim the starter or you can get excessive forces on the pinion/grinding/binding. There are some other threads covering "cheap" starters like: https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/mini-starter.349731/page-2#post-3034865
The starter I bought from DB electric is a standard gear reduction starter, it spins my 11 to 1 350 fine
Low octane fuel will not cause a starter to break. You won't have detonation while cranking. Advanced timing can cause a starter to break.
We had a rash of starter breakage problems with the 455 in the MGB-Roadmaster and eventually cured it by going to an electronic ignition system and retarding the spark while cranking. BTW the Chevy mini starter works well on both BBB and SBB and runs about $75. I was thinking it was the one for the SBC. I've been running those on my SBBs for a long time now. If it's kickback breaking the starter nose you won't necessarily hear it, just notice it not working right like you did. Not sure why it became a problem either, we cut back the static timing as much as we could but kept breaking them. Car sees about 2000-3000 miles a year. I suspect maybe the original starter might have had a cast iron nose that was a little more durable. Those would be hard to find today but it's possible you could run across one. Jim
I “think” the mini starters might be too “mini” in some areas, the nose being one of them. The 80 lb stock starter seemed more tolerant of kick back
Got it out this weekend. Definitely cracked. No starter brace in the car so maybe part of it. I’ve been searching around for a replacement brace but I can’t seem to find the one made for the 300. Saw picture on an older thread but seems like a really hard part to find. It makes sense to me to put it in.
