first siting??? Robin & I went down to Bulldog Performance on Monday to take crank, rods & pistons down for Geof Ketchum of Finishline motorsports,visited with Dick for awhile, we got to see the block before the powdercoating was applied, with my limited knowledge it looked great! If you break this thing YOU HAD OTHER PROBLEMS!!! With he priority oiling system & option of smaller main bearings this thing should last for ever, broken lifter bores should also be a thing of the past! Looking great, is going in for the machining process and should be on display at the PRI show (maybe even a week before :Brow: ) This is great news, there is even discussions of this block on other internet boards, there are guys out there THAT KNOW BUICKS are REALLY about to become a force to be reckoned with!!!
A 496 in that configuration I beleive. We'll be doing one of those but with the smaller main bearings and a billet crank. Then it will be fed with twin turbos. All I can say is look out GN guys, we are comming after you. Jim Burek
Powder coating?? why are we powder coating the blocks? What do we gain by doing this? If I grind on the block or drill holes I have a hard time believing that it won't get oil underneath it and start coming off in my engine. Do I have the option not to get this? Rod
I imagine the powdercoating is only done on the outside. I've seen some of the newer GM blocks with the black powdercoating....good idea!! :TU:
from the looks on the site it looks to be on the inside as well. If it was only on the outside I wouldn't care. I don't care for it to be on the inside. I have all intents to paint mine red, no big deal to paint over it.
from the looks on the site it looks to be on the inside as well. http://www.paeenterprises.com/buick.htm notice that the entire block (all surfaces) is coated. notice also the quote "Our block has been powder coated and is ready for the machining center." the bearing races, cylinder bores, top of the decks, etc are going to be machined to the metal. relax. the only thing to be concerned about is that he's painting it the wrong color (even if it DOES dissipate heat better). :spank:
black has long been known to be the best color for heat dissipation (as well as absorbtion of radiant or 'light' energy). whether or not this is sufficient to offset the insulating factor of the powder coat, i have no idea. that probably depends quite a bit on what they're using for a resin. nevertheless, an engine powdercoated black will certainly dissipate heat better than any other powder color. so if a cool engine is your primary consideration your choices are black or nude. :Brow:
Sorry Danie....hadn't seen that on his site yet. I'm not sure I'm sold on interior coatings (pc, glyptol, etc).....for the same reasons you're skeptical. The possibilities for damage, should something flake off, seem like too much risk. I'd rather go in and do all the grinding/smoothing out myself. But.....that's just my opinion.
Good question. I know that's why radiators are anodized, not painted. I wonder if the option of only powdercoating on the outside would be available. o No:
That would be the best thing for an engine. If you can improve the thermodynamic efficency by preventing combustion energy from being wasted in the form of radiant heat loss the engine will make more horsepower. Powder coating the block black, or any color depending on it's insulating qualities, is a cheap way to get a few extra horsepower. It's also smoother then a raw cast surface, so it allows oil draining back from the top of the engine to get back to the pan faster. Thats always a good thing. :TU:
Powder coat will not hold heat in. In fact, it will do the opposite and help heat transfer out of the metal. And the color of the coating used is not significant factor, just for looks...
Not sure I could ever afford one but this is fantastic news! Curious on what the crank/bearings are to be...I know there were discussions of several different types but what is the final word?? Is there somehwere with detailed descriptiosn f the oiling, etc?? Also, any word on price for a machined piece? Does the front timing cover and all the stock stuff bolt right on?? The thought of a stock looking 573 in the in my stage 1 just about makes me pee myself.... :laugh: :laugh: Later Tim
http://www.paeenterprises.com/buildsheet.htm the pae / bulldog option list. straight block starts at $3550. fully optioned it's $4565. gotta lurv that no tax internet sale dealio. :beer http://www.paeenterprises.com/coming_soon.html general rundown on the blocks improvements. http://www.diapersite.com/adult_diapers_cstore.htm just about makes me pee myself.... for your incontinence problem :laugh: :laugh: edit: i'm lacking in calculator skills ou: fully optioned is a little more expensive than i was saying earlier.
