1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

No HEAT!!! im dying...

Discussion in 'The Big Chill' started by thapachuco, Nov 11, 2007.

  1. thapachuco

    thapachuco Well-Known Member

    there is not heat coming from my vents when i move the controls to the heat position. The only heat i can get is the residual heat from the engine when i open the vent controls, but that doesnt last too long.

    What are some things i can check/troubleshoot to see what the problem is....because i would like to be able to see when i drive and not have foggy windows.

    Thanks
    Rick
     
  2. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Look under-dash for the spot the cable is attached to the heat door...the eyelet on the end of the cable in my Wildcat broke, causing the problem you're describing.

    Other possibilities include low coolant level, and possibly a blocked heater core.

    Devon
     
  3. My3buicks

    My3buicks Guest

    Sounds like you probably need to replace the heater core. Easiest case scenerio would be new thermostat. If the car has a/c it may be a control valve out under the hood. The mention of foggy windows though leads me to believe you need a heater core.
     
  4. 70aqua_custom

    70aqua_custom Well-Known Member

    what are you working on?

    1. Check coolant level.

    2. Check the water valve. When heat is on, the valve will open and allow the hot water from the engine into the heater core. Both hoses will be hot when the valve is open and the engine is warmed up. They are cable or vacuum operated.

    3. Check the blend door operation. It directs the air over the heater core or bypasses it. Some are cable actuated and some have vacuum actuators.
     
  5. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    Easiest and cheapest solution is the heater control valve...that's what I would check first, followed by proper operation of the heater door controls on the inside.
     
  6. thapachuco

    thapachuco Well-Known Member

    Great! thanks for the fast response. I'll check these today.

    By the way im working on a 67 lesabre.
     
  7. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    AC or no?
     
  8. thapachuco

    thapachuco Well-Known Member

  9. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    Then it's probably not the heater control valve:Dou:
     
  10. thapachuco

    thapachuco Well-Known Member

    well it used to have a/c...then at some point my grandfather took it out, just the pump and a few hoses....does that make a difference?
     
  11. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    Yes - a factory non-AC car will not have a heater control valve, but an AC car will.
     
  12. Truzi

    Truzi Perpetual Student

    Is cold air coming through, or no air?
     
  13. thapachuco

    thapachuco Well-Known Member

    cold air is coming through the vents, but i think thats from my blower still in working order. Blows hard, just no heat...
     
  14. Truzi

    Truzi Perpetual Student

    So the blower is working. When you switch to defrost, heater, and vent, does the air come from the appropriate places? I'm not sure how your car's controls work, but mine (1970 'Lark), uses vacuum to route the airflow, and vacuum to open the valve that sends coolant to the heater core.

    If all that works, I'd check to make sure the door to the heater box works (as suggested above). It should be a cable. If the car is off and you move the heater lever (as in Hot-Cold) you might be able to hear the door. You might have to get your hand under there and feel for the lever that actuates the door to make sure it is open.

    I think the easiest way to check the valve would be to remove it and use a piece of pipe to splice the hose together - though you'd have full-time heat that way. (You could touch both of the hoses to the heater core and see if they get hot.)
     
  15. thapachuco

    thapachuco Well-Known Member

    im not too sure how it works either. i do know the heater control does cause the door to open an close and i can move it manually...so i should check what next? im a little confused about the hose test mentioned above.
     
  16. 70aqua_custom

    70aqua_custom Well-Known Member

    if the blend door and the blower are working properly and you don't have heat, I'm going to guess there's no hot water flowing through the heater core. You can check this quickly by putting your hand on the heater hoses after the engine is warmed up. They should both be hot. If not, you need to check the things mentioned above.
     
  17. Truzi

    Truzi Perpetual Student

    Lets hope it's the valve... it's a lot easier to replace than the heater core.
     
  18. thapachuco

    thapachuco Well-Known Member

    so ichecked my heater hoses....(they are the ones that run into the firewall right?) and they werent really that hot, not nearly as hot as the radiator hose...alot cooler in fact. So i should check what now?
     
  19. thapachuco

    thapachuco Well-Known Member

    well im assuming it would be the control valve...where is this located, my buick manual doesnt really point me in any direction, it just shows me how to service it...any pointers? thanks for all the help so far fellas.
     
  20. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Was the coolant level ever checked?

    Another possibility is that the heater hoses or hose ports are plugged. Might be worthwhile to pull the hoses and see what's going on.

    Devon
     

Share This Page