Official '66 SP 400 buildup thread

I don't know what this is called, it came out next.....it just pulled out real easy......I'll call it shaft A: :laugh:

 

Next this clutch came out.........the book says it's a direct clutch.......the last one was the forward clutch........anyhow, I just learned why this tranny was slipping......the front band grabs onto the outside of this part and it's a little blue, evidence of slippage:

 

Joe,
Judging by the color of the trans oil, you have a burnt clutch pack in there. If I may point out a couple of things to take notice of. There are 3 different color springs for the rear servo. Blue is the weakest, black is medium and yellow is the strongest. The stronger the spring, the firmer the 1-2 shift (reverse will engage a bit smoother too).
If you are using the 73 BC VB you mentioned earlier, you may want to make sure that you uses a stiffer spring in the 1-2 accumulator valve in the VB. See the SP post. The single stage valves in the later accumulator setup needs more help in getting a stiffer 1-2 shift. You can try to locate the yellow servo spring P/N 8624391 since you have the trans apart as this will help too.
Big thing to take notice of when you get further into the trans is that the 64-66 direct clutch has a unique piston that uses 5 waved steel plates. You DON'T want to use them. Get some .775 and .915 thick FLAT steel plates and set the clutch pack clearance to around .030" (my preference). I can go into have to do this when you get further into the trans.
There are also some other unique things in these trans' that I will point out as you go along. Please don't think I am intruding on your post. Since you only did a Ford trans before, I just trying to assist.
Any questions, please ask. NICE JOB! :TU:

Mark

 

Yepper.........this band's a little crispy.......no wonder I could not get crack my tires loose when I braked torqued with this trany in my car: :Brow:

 

Thanks........I"ll have plenty of them later :laugh:

 

Sorry, that band is only used when braking in L2. Usually what happens is the 1-2 shift gets soggy and then the trans gets manually shifted. That is when the band gets used and can get a bit burned up.
Willing to bet the intermediate clutch is a bit worn too. Some models have wave plates in there as well. Recommend some flat steels there also.

Mark

 

This next part was a PITA to get out.......only b/c I didn't know it was held in with a bolt under the valve body......and the part I took out first on top of it was held in with a large snap ring: (glad I didn't try to use the BFH on this one......nuttin' broken yet! :laugh: )

 

Here's that bolt I was talking about:

 

That bolt screws in on the side of the hub pictured above:

 

I didn't think this clutch looked burned, but it must be:

 

Please check a couple of things here. There is a top race to the needle bearing that likes to get stuck on the back of the center support. It is not part of the support and can fall off when it gets cleaned. Finding another one if it gets lost is not fun if you don't have a spare trans.
Also, there is a plastic (sometimes a material called phenolic) washer in the support as well. Look at it from the back side to see if it is there. You don't want that lost too.

 

I think I mixed up the order I took these in......but here's my next photo anyhow: ou:

 

Mark / Joe:

Just a note: those are supposed to be .0775 and .0915 thick, Don't want any one getting confused. :TU:

Jim

 

Yes, I found those 2 parts......they fell off when I took the part out they were attached to. ou:

 

Any blackness to the clutchs (can't tell in the pic) or chunks missing will indicate failure. It can also be from old seals in the piston on the support.
Also check to see if there is something called an orifice bleed in the support. Am pretty sure there should be as there is a roller clutch under the support instead of a sprag.
There should be a tiny plug in the top of the support with a small hole in it that bleeds oil onto the roller assembly. This also acts as bleed to allow any air out from under the piston and apply the 2nd clutch better.
Many 66 trans' did not use this bleed and can cause clutch wear problems. Also, how many springs were there on the piston. You only need 3. Some had 12 which is overkill. Almost all 67 and later units only used 3.


Sorry, stinkin decimal point. ou:

 

This is the next photo......why are there extra holes for those springs?

 

This rear band must be the reverse band? It looks good to me........geeze, it's amazing how light an empty tranny case is :laugh:

I coulda swore I had more photos........that's all for now. I'll maybe post more when I take more things apart. Haven't broke anything yet! :laugh:

 

I found one that shows that needle bearing and spacer you mentioned:

 

Nothing breaks as long as you don't USE that BFH. :laugh:
Wait until you have the fun of putting that band back in. :shock:
Some more suggestions if I may. DO NOT wash the parts in gasoline. Go to Walmart and get some mineral spirits. Most parts washing solvent is made up of that.
Heavy grime on the case can be removed with oven cleaner which also remove paint. I have cleaned cases with laundry detergent. Just rinse well with warm/hot water. Once clean, blow everything dry with compressed air. Then you can put the case out in the sun (the funny yellow thing in the sky we don't see too often in NY lately) to heat it up and dry it out good.
Getting the forward/direct clutch pistons out/together is fun. The proper tool would be nice, but I can show you have to make a cheap compressor tool that work. Looks really dumb, but has worked over 20 year for me.

Later,
Mark

 

I already have a parts washer filled with mineral spirits....... :TU:

Give me the low down on that tool.......I remember getting things lined up on the c4 I did was an experience I'll never forget. ou: