So, I'm gonna be changing my oil again soon and was wondering what people suggest I run. I have used the new formulation of Rotella in my motor for the past 2500 miles and no sign of any cam lobe failure. I was thinking of going synthetic with ZDDP Plus or possibly GM EOS. Any suggestions on brands of oil or zinc supplement. Tell me what your using and what you think. Thanks, Jon
Well sice EOS is discontinued>>>> That limits your choices. I see not downsides to ZDDP plus. I will never rn my car without it again.
Maybe it's just me.... but I switched to the Synthetic Rotella this year for the first time, and my oil pressure was terrible. (Like 5-6 lbs at hot idle) I used it for about 30 days, yanked it out and went back to my 10W40 Synthetic Valvoline that I've been using for the last 2 years. Now I'm back to my 15-18 lbs at hot idle. I'm curious about this ZDDP you guys are talking about. Is it a zinc additive that you put in with your oil?
The ZDDP acts as a cushion between your cam & lifters (which is a pretty rough area), more than just the cushion of oil. With reduced ZDDP in newer oils, cam wear "can" be accelerated, although I've heard very few stories of well-broken-in cams that wear out. Anyhow, the ZDDP Plus adds some ZDDP (zinc-phosphorous stuff) back in to help your cam live. If you have a roller cam, I believe this is unnecessary. Your oil pressure reading is related to oil viscosity, and has nothing to do with zinc levels. I believe the Rotella also dropped their zinc levels about a year ago, so unless you have some older oil sitting around I don't think the Rotella will help. -Bob C.
There is less of a drop in pressure when oil is warm with synthetic for some reason. I have read why but canot remember. I would lean towards Royal Purple. I have a freind who is into really competitve NHRA/AHRA stock dragracing and is a great mechanic and he swears by the stuff. That with the ZDDP plus should be nice.
It boils down to synthetic's ability to resist viscocity change with temp change being generally better than crude-based oils. Thinner than crude-based when cold, thicker than crude-based when hot. That's a generalization, as there are wide-range viscosity synthetics out there as well...but you get the point. Devon
It is the old Kendall oil refinery, Bradford Pennsylvania. (Hence the new name, Brad Penn.) I believe they are using some of the old formulas as well. Regards, John.
info to substantiate? My engine builder prefers due to the tolerances in the motor....and I dont live in the great white north..... <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
A couple of guys I race with were talking to me about the Brad Penn oil in St. Louis a couple of weeks ago. They swear by it. They run hemi's and turn some high rpm and only run 10-30. They say it really clings to the surfaces and is there on startup and prevents wear on a race engine that sets for a week or so not starting. I have checked and there is a distributor around Nashville (615 #), I'm thinking of giving it a try. I don't like running this heavy diesel stuff. Jim N.
Best oil on the market, and the 30 wt break in oil is the only thing that goes into a TSP motor for startup. I recommend the 10-30 racing oil from Brad Penn to all my engine customers. This is the ONLY oil that I have used at break-in, and not added some type of extreme pressure additive. The break in oil is that good. And as Jim said, it clings to parts better, and not just a little, it's very noticable. I also notice that the new engine cold oil pressure vs warm oil pressure is much better now... meaning there is much less of a pressure drop as the engine warms up. It used to be not unusual to see the oil pressure drop 30 PSI at cam break-in speed, from cold to warm. I am seeing about half that now. Just about every high performance machine shop and engine builder in town that I know of (quite a few) has switch over to it in the last year or so, and they have eliminated their oil related issues. Every one I talk to swears by it, and so do I. JW
Thanks, Jim for the added info. I was sold on it and have some coming for my car as soon as I get the convertor back. The guys told me that what really sold them was a buddy had cracked a block and had stripped it and set it out side all winter and in the spring, it still was not rusty and that was in Iowa. They said all of the surfaces that had oil were like new. Glad I stumbled on to it. Thanks again, Jim Netherland
Where do you get the Brad Penn oil??? I googled and found some places I've never heard of. Can it be found anywhere "normal"?
Jennifer at 814-368-1200... ask for Jennifer and she will find your local salesman. I did my break in with this oil:TU:Tell her Jim Hirt from Nashville said Hello.
