Well alright then, guess I will replace the cap rotor plugs and wires and install the starter without the "L" bracket. Or maybe I will try to use a hose clamp for alittle more support (ya, I know its hillbilly but at this point I'll try anything) maybe voodoo or witch craft..lol Hell, maybe I'll change hobbies I hear that neddle point is alot of fun...Jerry
Dead timing is where the timing mark sits when the engine is idling and the Vac. advance is plugged. Usually 12 is where most stockers sit. You can rev the engine untill the mark stops moving(with the Vac. Advance plugged)... hold it there, and take a reading. That will be your timing with the mechanical advance. Usually adds 4-5 if I remember correctly.
I suppose I should have refered to it as static timing, not dead timing. You have to determine that the #1 cylinder is coming up on compression. When it is close you turn it by hand slowly until the timing mark lines up with the desired initial timing setting, maybe 8 degrees. Then if your distributor is close to being in the right position you loosen the bolt so you can rotate the distibutor easily by hand. Connect the number 1 plug wire to a spare spark plug and ground the plug so you can see it spark. Then rotate the distributor against the rotation of the rotor. It may take a couple trys but you should get a spark at the plug by doing this. You will be able to determine where the distributor is positioned when the spark occurs after several trys. That is where you want to tighten the distributor clamp down. I always use this method when starting a new engine to be certain the timing is where it needs to be. Since I started doing it this way I have never had a situation where I didnt have an engine start immediatly and you will be surprised how close to correct the timing will be once you put the timing light on it. I found a reference to this method used by a Volvo enthusiast. Ill post it here, but you will have to disregard the volvo specific information. The basics are the same for any engine. "This procedure is to be performed AFTER: engine has been set to ignition point, distributor drive pinion and distributor have been correctly installed, cylinder No. 1 ignition wire has been determined, all ignition wires have been installed in the correct firing order, setting the points gap ,checking for free Centrifugal Advance, smooth return, and lubing CA mechanism with a few drops of engine oil (felt pad located in shaft center under distributor rotor). 1. With all ignition components in place and assembled, set motor to ignition point (see preceding procedure), remove plug wire from Cylinder No1. spark plug, and lay onto valve cover with a gap to cover so that a spark will be visible when it occurs. 2. Turn ignition ON with key.Do not crank. 3. Loosen timing adjustment locking nut on distributor collar. 4. Turn distributor housing CCW about 45 degrees to assure points are closed, and it is therefore positioned BEFORE ignition point (point at which lobe on distributor shaft opens ignition points and causes high voltage spark). Note: This procedure can still be used, even if ignition has been upgraded with electronics which eliminate the points, and replaces them with a Hall-effect, or an Optical sensor. 5. With ignition rotor, cap, wires in place, slowly turn housing CW (simulating a normal CCW distributor shaft rotation) until spark occurs at test gap. Repeat steps 4 and 5 as many times as is required to get a feeling for when the spark occurs, and to be able to IMMEDIATELY STOP turning the housing after the spark does occur. 6. Turn ignition power OFF with key, lock timing adjustment by snugging timing adjustment locking nut on distributor collar, restore No. 1 plug wire to No. 1 cylinder, assure ALL IS SAFE and engine is clear to run. 7. Ignition system is now timed and presuming all else is in order (fuel), engine can be started and run. After applying choke, handbrake, placing gearbox in neutral, engine may be started using ignition key and (preferred) Start push button (or better yet, Service Switch under hood!). 8. It may be necessary to reset the idle after timing. This should be done after choke has been disengaged, engine has come to normal operating temperature as indicated by thermostat opening (as can be seen on temperature gauge). Note: I have used this this Static Timing method for years, and found it to be absolutely fine, and perfectly adequate for the B18/20 engines...after timing in this manner and checking with a timing light (NOT mine - I don't own one!...what for?), I have found that my adjustments, performed according to these procedures, have put the timing within one degree of that specified...can't argue with that!...plus, since minimal tools are required, this procedure can be performed - if necessary - on the side of the road, although the garage or driveway, with a well stocked fridge not too far away is clearly preferred! Cheers!" -----------------
Move the distrutor clockwise?? Is this correct? I thought counter clockwise was retarding it, that is opposite way of rotation. Can someone confirm this before I try it again tonight. Jerry
Because the rotor turns clockwise, moving the distributor counterclockwise means the rotor will point to a particular plug terminal sooner...this is "advance". To get the rotor to point to the terminal later (retard), move the distributor clockwise. I don't know how to explain it any more clearly without being able to show you. Devon
I had the same problem and it was a bent flexplate. With a lot of advance it would sometimes kickback as you were starting, scrape into the snout and bang there it goes! I even tried the rear starter support and it kept the starter alive longer but sooner or later there she went. I never used the rear support before or after and I haven't had a problem in 30 years except for that. Way too much trouble putting it on.
Damn, I moved it the wrong way last time.Guess thats why that starter only lasted 3 starts. Thanks sooo much for all your help. Jerry
Last night I replaced the cap ,rotor,wires and did the whole timing sequence as described and it seems to be just fine now. I started it maybe 30 times. 12 degrees timing now. It was way off, mainly because I turned the distributor the wrong way (my fault because I had a dislexic moment, lol). Anyway, I just want to thank all of you who coached me threw this, especially DaWildcat... Jerry
I see you have it resolved, but I'm just getting caught up on old messages... I had the same problem with two of my 455's so I'll throw in my experiences in case they'll help someone else in the future reading this thread. In one, the flexplate was bent/out of round a little. You could see it while the motor was cranking. On the second motor, the timing was way off as has been mentioned, but the cause was different. I'd been carefully setting the static timing with my timing light, but the timing light itself was off... don't rule it out! Borrow another and try it again!
