Well I finally got the engine and trans mated together, and was so happy to be this much closer to dropping the engine in the car. The very clear instructions that came with my ARP flexplate to TC bolts specified 50ft lbs install torque using the ARP Ultra Torque fastener lubricant (these are M10 x 1.5mm bolts). I went in stages, 15, 30, then at about 40-45 I stripped one of the bosses: I realize the factory torque spec is 25 - 35 ft lbs but I was just trying to follow directions here Should I try to Heli-Coil this or just bit the bullet and buy a new convertor (for a transmission that I can't verify is functional). Or maybe weld a new boss on? I just don't trust myself to get it perfectly mounted, which might mess up the input seal/pump . . .
I would Heli coil for sure. It is a 100% fix when done right. Heli coils are often stronger than the original threads. I am an aviation mechanic and lots of the aluminum castings and whatnot we deal with come with Heli Coils from the factory new. Done in steel they will be fine. 50 foot pounds does seem like a lot for those. Best of luck on the repair. Greg.
It looks as if you barley had engagement to three threads. What is the thread length with the fastener/washer/flex plate stack up and space in the boss before threads actually engage ? You might need longer bolts.
I agree with Michael on the longer bolts thing. It almost looks like there is bunch of good thread behind there? If so, longer bolts might solve the whole problem. I like time-sert better than Heli-coil, but most of my heli-coil experience has been with other people's crappy jobs.
I'll have to go measure, but this is the hardware I'm using: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-230-7304 Underhead length is listed as 0.590", and I'm using a 0.075" washer to shim the convertor depth, so that leaves about 1/2" minus the flexplate thickness, which I'm assuming is about 1/8" so I should theoretically have about 3/8" engagement. I can get exact numbers tomorrow, but maybe that is too little? I'll look into time certs, I've actually never used that or a heli-coil before!
Yep, does not look like long enough bolt. Got to watch those clicking TQ wrenches they can click without you feeling it. That is a bummer, I hate it when your close and stupid stuff happens.
The farmer in me would just use a longer bolt. Looks like there is plenty of thread left below the stipped section. Sounds like this is a test run of sorts, so it wouldn't hurt much! But a helicoil would be very. East to put it. If you're nervous about it, any machine shop would install it for reasonable money.
I think I’d try a longer bolt in all three positions first, you said you don’t know if the trans is any good anyway, plus your going to want to get a converter from JW eventually
Also, if the trans is indeed non functional, let the crap circulate thru that factory converter not a new one.
Thanks all, planning on trying a longer set of bolts today. Hopefully the hardware store has some grade 8 flange bolts in a good length. If it holds 35 ft lbs then I'll call it good. Flexplate holes seem to be for 3/8" bolts so M10 bolts fit very well conveniently!
Nah nah,...use studs,..they can't be too long,..just let two or 3 threads protruding thru the new locknuts..but thread them in,..run it by a welding shop and have them tig the studs in place,...done and no chance of any more dumb **** happening
As a side note, I’ve never “torqued to spec” my converter bolts, most times if the starter is in place and can only get a box wrench on ‘em I’ll smack the box wrench with a hammer Come to think of it the only thing I use a torque wrench on are head bolts.
I have a TIG and could put the studs in myself, my only concern with studs is that I'd have to line up the bellhousing bolts and the convertor bolts at the same time. While this may be possible with the engine out, it sounds like a pain to do if I ever have to R&R this transmission in the car. I'll try bolts first and if they strip I'll weld in studs! I'm the kind of person to always use a torque spec if it's available, I guess it's habit from my job doing robotics. I used a crow's foot to torque these do to tight clearance between the bolt heads and the oil pan.
The Crows foot extended the length of your torque wrench so that you actually put more torque on the bolt than the wrench was set for.
Nah man,.. thread the studs in,..they're gonna self center,..ford's use studs,..one of their only good ideas actually,..drill the holes for a hammer tap fit even,..then burn them in
