I learned something new, good advice! https://www.tekton.com/blog/how-to-accurately-use-a-torque-wrench-with-a-crowfoot-wrench Ok will I'll buy both at the hardware store and see what ends up working!! I was using an electronic toque wrench.
Welp, you guys were right! After some measuring and calculations, I determined I was only getting 4.91mm (0.194") of thread engagement, definately less than optimal. I picked up some M10 x 1.5mm x 20mm flange head bolts at the hardware store, torqued them successfully to 25ft lbs (I found that if I put the engine in the perfect rotation, I could get my torque wrench and a socket on there), and called it good. That is, until I had to pull the whole damn thing apart again, but I'm posting that story in my build thread!
After the TQ wrench stick a hand box end on there and see how much pull it takes to move bolt you'll find out tight is good by hand if you had to do this, and as you can see the TQ wrench just barely fits.
Repair it correctly... with a helicoil installation. And the torque for standard 3/8 bolts is in the 35 -40 ft/lbs range. I like to see at least 1/2" thread engagement in most stock converters, if possible. JW
You're going to buy a heli-coil kit with at least 4pcs in it, why save the other 3? Heli-coil them all.
Just for any else reading this thread,.. using studs negates the need to roll the engine around to start the other two bolts before tightening one,..therefore you're not roll ing the engine around and around if it's a fresh start deal,..another plus
Ended up buying a Helicoil kit at the hardware store. They only had M10 x 1.25, but I figure that's a slight upgrade since the fine thread should be stronger anyways. Did all 3 bosses, so I should be good to go to go now!
I can't speak for aftermarket flywheels, but GM factory flywheels have a "starting" hole in them. If you look at the 3 holes, one is oval shaped & the other 2 are round. Start the oval one first & the other 2 will be lined up.
Not an issue of lining them up,..but if you tighten one before installing the other two you are screwed,...that's the benefit of the studs,.. tighten as you go,..not start them then tighten them like a bolt
Aftermarket torque converters have 7/16 fine thread or an open hole for a bolt/ but but the stock ones are 3/8 or 7/16 coarse you can get those from any good hardware store,..they are hardened
Clicker type torque wrenches need to be completely backed off to zero poundage after each use, to keep them from changing or losing calibration.
In the case of the 2004R all of the fasteners are metric, so my torque converter bolts were M10 x 1.5mm. Luckily that being so close to 3/8" means that flexplates are generally compatible with both!
