traction problems please help

Discussion in 'Race car chassis tech' started by 7 skylark 1, Apr 6, 2008.

  1. VicDamone

    VicDamone 65 SPECIAL & 65 SKYLARKS

    VERY NICE !!!! What did you change???

    You might also have to much posi lube in your gear oil. This *WILL* cause the clutches to slip leaving you with a peg leg burn out...
     
  2. ss4825

    ss4825 Well-Known Member

    Dave, Is that a glass hood? If so where did you get it. Love the wheelie.:TU:
     
  3. 7 skylark 1

    7 skylark 1 Well-Known Member

    i replaced the front springs and shocks. moroso drag springs and cheap summit drag shocks set on 90/10. i have 1 bottle of gm posi lube and regular gear oil. do you think i should try draining the fluid and filling with gear oil and no posi lube? thanks, dave


    Alan,its a steel hood with a stage 2 scoop bolted on. i would like to get a glass hood with the stage 2 scoop, i need to lighten this pig up.3900+ pounds

    James, thanks, i always wanted a car that can do this.
     
  4. VicDamone

    VicDamone 65 SPECIAL & 65 SKYLARKS

    What pound # front springs did you get?

    Just put 1/2 a bottle in. Then Add more if needed.:3gears: GREAT JOB !!!! Car looks bad...
     
  5. 7 skylark 1

    7 skylark 1 Well-Known Member

    moroso #47200, its rated at 260lbs.. the car sits at stock ride hight. i hope it settles down at least an inch or two. i'll try a drain and refill on the rear and see what happens. thanks, dave
     
  6. Turbo455

    Turbo455 James


    are you sure you want to do that, that might ruin the posi:Do No:
     
  7. 7 skylark 1

    7 skylark 1 Well-Known Member


    i can't get much worse. it seems like when it gets hot the posi doesn't work at the track. i don't think it will hurt anything, the posi lube just helps the clutches slip around turns. starting with a half a bottle of posi addative should help the clutches grab a little better.
     
  8. Turbo455

    Turbo455 James

    I did not know that. I will have to try that myself.
     
  9. 7 skylark 1

    7 skylark 1 Well-Known Member

    i just wanted to update this thread. i think i've finally got it sorted out. went to test and tune today and got 7 runs in. 6 runs 1.61 60ft and 1 run 1.62(that run was fattened up with an air bleed change). so it took 33psi in the right air bag, and installing factory rear sway bar. last week out i had a brain fart and only ran 22psi in the air bag and was blowing the tires away.
    I do have a ? for guys that are hookin good and going fast. What is more efficient, and would you expect one set-up to 60ft better than the other and be consistant on all sorts of track conditions?
    1--air bag set -up
    2--anti roll bar(like the HR bar)
    3--some type of IC relocating device(no hops,or lower control arm relocation)
    4-- combination of any of these
    5--what are you using to get the most out of your suspension?
    Thanks for you input, Dave
     
  10. 7 skylark 1

    7 skylark 1 Well-Known Member

    <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/PfY5PQQjNm4&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/PfY5PQQjNm4&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

    just wanted to post a video(Thanks, Larry). this is the first time i've seen my car with a good video of it leaving the line. it looks like i'm in need of a rear anti roll bar like the HR bar. anyone using one and did your 60ft imrpove with it?
     
  11. monkeyy337

    monkeyy337 monkeyy337

    Are you running a rear sway bar of any kind, stock or other wise? I know some people will not agree with me but I only run a stock one and my Regal leaves straight, hooks hard, and has 1.46 60' times which I think are good for my combination. I also run air bags in both rear springs. Just my 2 cents worth.
     
  12. 7 skylark 1

    7 skylark 1 Well-Known Member

    stock rear sway bar and an air bag. it hooks fine now but after seeing the video it looks like there is room for improvement. the video i have i can watch in slow motion and you can really see how twisted it starts to get(left front lifts off the ground and then the right front comes off just a little). it also looks like the rear is squating a little, which seems like a waste of motion. i'm just wondering if a anti roll bar like the HR parts n stuff bar will give me a better 60ft. i know it will straighten the car out( i've seen video of cars that use it and they leave perfectly flat)thanks,dave
     
  13. VicDamone

    VicDamone 65 SPECIAL & 65 SKYLARKS

    The car looks very stiff , not enough travel in the front end . I would start with that...
     
  14. 7 skylark 1

    7 skylark 1 Well-Known Member

    i plan on cutting 1/2 to a coil off the front springs. i was waiting for them to settle down but they really haven't droped much. even if i do that, won't it still be lifting the left side first ? it also looks like its squating a little in the rear. i thought an anti roll bar would help with both conditions:Do No: thanks dave
     
  15. Da Torquester.

    Da Torquester. Platinum Level Contributor

    If you cut any part of your front springs it will stiffen your front end even more. Don't do it ! To get the front end up quickly you need to go with adj. shocks on a 90/10 setting and find the appropriate front coil springs. Have you removed your front sway bar ? Are you using No Hop bars or something to change the mounting location at the rear of your upper trailing arms ? One thing that helped me was to not torque the upper and lower control arm nuts very much in the front end. If you put a lot of torque on the nuts when your front coil springs are removed, they will move very hard and slow. I experimented with the tension of the nuts so I could get the control arms to go up and down with little effort but without a lot of slop. That is THE NUTS FRONT TO REAR !!! Not the shim nuts !!! My cars weight distrib. is 58% up front and 42% in the rear. With me it's about 4200 lbs. My best 60ft. is 1.65. For starters remove your front springs and get the right ones, and appropriate shocks if you don't have them. While the coil springs are out adjust the tension on your upper / lower control arm bushings so your control arms move easier. The HR bar is a very good part to add to keep the car flat and will dramatically help your sixty foots. I look foward to the day when I get mine. :cool: Good luck. John.
     
  16. 7 skylark 1

    7 skylark 1 Well-Known Member

    thanks, already have the 90/10 shocks and trick springs w/the nuts backed off on the control arms. best 60ft so far 1.56. usually 1.58 to 1.61 depending on the weather. i bought the trick springs for the correct front weight and it sits too high. i figured cutting the springs a little will give me more travel in the front end. i already removed the upper bump stops to get more travel. still have the front sway bar,and the rear control arms are in the stock location.
     
  17. Skyhawk

    Skyhawk Well-Known Member

    Dave those front springs will sag over the winter. When we had them in my son's first car we had to replace them every year unless we jacked the suspwnsion up when the car sat for long periods oftime. I don't remember the part number but it did sit lower than your car. If you cout a coil just take a half coil.
     
  18. 7 skylark 1

    7 skylark 1 Well-Known Member

    thanks, i've been waiting for them to settle. everything i've read guys say they settle alot, but in the 5 months i've had them in its only settled 1/4 to 1/2 an inch. i guess i'll wait a little longer and see how far they will settle.
     
  19. Da Torquester.

    Da Torquester. Platinum Level Contributor

    My friend if you remove your front sway bar for your runs at the track, you'll be running even better sixty fts. I'm kind of suprised you hadn't removed it yet. Anyway next time you go to the track, make some runs without it. I'm sure you'll be happy with your times. Put it back on when you're ready to go back home. Yes if you drive without it on the street your car's handling will suffer. If you're looking for cornering on rails don't do it. If you want the best qtr. time you can do, take it off and race. Put it back on when you're through and go home with a smile. John. :)
     
  20. 7 skylark 1

    7 skylark 1 Well-Known Member

    I'll give it a shot in the spring. how much better was your 60ft and et without the swaybar ? did you remove it the same day at the track for a good comparison ? thanks, dave
     

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