I'm not 100% sure on that? I would say on a non load bearing or interior wall yes. We would frame door openings with the channel on its flat with studs going into it vertically and it was fine. Most exterior walls were studded with a channel top and bottom but there was still structural steel beams and joists in place. We would Hilti shoot the top channel to the underside of the beam, tapcon bottom channel to the concrete floor then fill with the wall studs every 16". Most buildings we did were 20'-25' tall so the steel could do the span and was stronger than wood.[/QUOTE] Hey thanks for the rundown. I'm thinking of making two structures. One for storing like an enclosed carport and one for working with a pit in it. Thanks for your expert advice
No problem Ronnie! If you got any questions don't hesitate to ask .I've been in the building industry many years from framing houses to industrial buildings
My dog dug this up, any ideas. When I pulled on it, it would not budge It cant be seen but there is a green cable being blocked by the black one in the picture
It is 15feet away from this This is my workshop. Am I missing a fuse? I would love to ditch the exention cord set up I been using
I would carefully dig around it a couple feet and see what way it goes. If it leads back towards the shop then kill the power to that panel and continue digging that line up and get rid of it. It looks to me the centre fuse is missing but the green cable is wired to the left fuse and probably live. Not sure what would've connected to that conector though??
Looks like a three phase disconnect. There's only two fuses in it because it was being used for 220 single phase. I would definitely check for power at those fuses with a good quality test light or multimeter. The connector coming out of the ground looks like the distributor wire from an 82 Chevy Chevette. It's most likely still connected to the entire car. I would also test it for power before messing with it. [Disclaimer] I'm no electrician, but it has been a long time since I've been shocked.
Connector the dogs found may be for low voltage lights. How far from the buildings is it? Any other low voltage lighting on the property?
Ill check for power and report back. I have tried in the past setting the power on and plugging something in the outlet with no luck.
Tu Eres un gran carnicero (carneadoro) LOL! Im loving your post pal. I hate spending other peoples money but... First of all dig up that wire after verifying with a meter its' DOA. Used material is great, if kept in perspective, but as mentioned, foundation and structure are about 95% of the building. You can cheap out with a used door or window, but not concrete or framing. Look into a place like Menards; they sell complete house/shop/whatever kits. Kinda one way to go. Get the pad done (with all the desert youve got for filler, I'd build UP about 12 inches for rain, when it does). I hate to say it but credit makes the world go around. Get a menards card (EVERYTHING is 11% off this week) and order the building. Interest free for 6 months. Float a note for 2K on the pad, buy a bunch of beer and have a barbiquoa party/barn raising. Just like the Amish folks do up here. 20 guys can have a major building put up in a weekend. Details happen later. HIRE MEXICANS ! Hell man, youre out of the city with a prima vista, land and peace and quiet. Many would die for that! Next comes the DEEP well for a beautiful Oasis Verde! ws https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...983-c-9891.htm?tid=4336889474168653545&ipos=8
Hello Ronnie, I've been an electrician for over 40 years, and I hate to tell you there is nothing legal or safe in that picture. Probably should find a licensed electrician to fix it before something happens.
I would like to see ware the supply to that box is coming from. Its hard to tell but looks like all your powering is that plug and switch. Their is probably a main breaker panal that supplies that disconnect box. Its nice to know what amperage your feeding the disconnect so you dont overload the disconnect.
Looks like a 10-15 amp wall switch powering that 15 HP disconnect. Another case of someone using a "found" appliance. Thats a catastrophe waiting to happen. At least the quartz clock wont start the fire. Even if you put a male plug on that orange wire for the feed from the white outlet, that 3ph box is all wrong... everything about it is all wrong. That wall switch in itself "may" handle a 100 watt light bulb and a battery charger at 15 feet. Next time you have a chance, pick up a 10.00 book on home electrical installation/repairs from the home depot or where ever you go. That should at least point you in the right direction. That orange cord under the metal wall plate is probably the worst part. Thats a knife trying to cut live wires wires. Start digging up the Chevette today! And get a smoke/fire detector above that box! ws
I couldn't find my multimeter yesterday and it got dark when I finished what I was doing so I didn't even dig to be safe but the plug in the floor is 15 feet away and inline with the box. Not counting the house but I've been noticing everything this man made or had made has been so 3rd world. This dude was cheap and dumb.
..."in your spare time" take Bill's advice. Most, but not all, issues you're discovering can be fixed by you. One of my first books was Sears "Home Wiring Simplified" when I needed to do a 4-way switch. And there was plumbing, rough and finish carpentry, latest was lam beams for load bearing walls, you get the picture. Only thing I won't do to this day is masonry, I'm OCD and take too long...
