Foundation under that pillar is/has sunken. Support both sides, remove pillar, redo footing properly, install pillar after foundation has dried & is solid.
^^^ what Tom said. Jack up the center, put some temporary supports in, and replace the center. Here in the Northeast, pole barn poles need a hole dug below the frost line, then place a concrete pad in the bottom of the hole to support the post. Don't recall the concrete pad dimensions, but 4"-6" thick and maybe 16" round is close. Place the pole on the pad and fill with dirt. Might as well upgrade to a 6x6 post. You're in the desert so you don't have to worry about rain/snow. Do you get high winds there? Keeping dust out of the garage may be a priority..... and keeping it cool. Try a Google search for 'pre-built garage' and see what is avail in your area.
I never liked the idea of posts being in the ground. I would recommend jacking up the middle and placing temporary supports as others have said. Then remove the existing post and dig a footing about 18" deep, 16" x 16". Set forms with 2x6 lumber above ground. You can make the portion above ground 8x8. Pour that with concrete and add an anchor bolt in the center. Purchase a galvanized post base to match the size of post you are putting back. These serve two purposes. First, it secures the post at the bottom solidly. And with the stand off built into the base, it keeps the bottom of the post off the ground and concrete, so it won't wick up water into the bottom of the post. Post lasts longer! Here's one example.. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson...anized-Adjustable-Post-Base-ABW44RZ/205227049
Here's an idea for ya; Aren't shipping containers that don't get reused from China cheap and plentiful over there? Aren't they around 10' wide by 20' or so long? Seeing how you are a truck driver maybe your company will let you borrow the truck to pick up 2 or 3 of them to make a garage out of them? Picking them up yourself would probably make them even cheaper? Would be something to look into anyway. People use those containers all the time to make buildings out of them, would give you an excuse to get a welder and plasma cutter so you can connect the containers together. You can even stack them if you want second story storage. Do a Bing or google search building a garage with shipping containers, cheap and fast to do. If you want the garage where the chicken coop is, tear it down so the containers can go there or place in a different spot and get egg laying chickens for the coop. Free range organic eggs are 100 times better than store bought!
That's a good Google search I'll see what I find. I live in a high wind area, year around it kicks up pretty high from the mountain. Thanks Walt
I can't drive those trucks I have a class B not a class A, but that is a good idea, well except for those chicken, for now I'll take my chicken frozen in the freezer lol
Thanks Mike for the specs on how you like them, that gives me a baseline of what needs to be done. Got to do the job right so it can last. Thanks for that link
I forgot to mention that my minimum ceiling clearance standard is eight feet - higher if you can. I said my barn/garage was clear span; this was done with a pair of what are technically called open web steel joists. I wanted one joist in the center, but it would have been too deep, so I settled for two shallower joists located a foot apart in the center of the building. The clearance from the floor to the joists was eight feet, one-half inch, this gave me slightly over nine feet of floor to ceiling clearance on either side of the joists. All this stuff is probably on the internet now, but my nephew is a commercial architect and gave me copies of the span tables for steel joists. When I ordered the joists, the seller wanted to know my qualifications for selecting joists (I ordered them by number). I said that I was a backyard builder/architect. He then went over the numbers with me - very carefully. When he was done he was very surprised that my joist selection was exactly right (I can add, subtract, multiply , and divide). The engineer with whom I spoke was named Davy Crockett - honest.
My best advice is that you can't build too big. Build as big a garage as you can afford. The steel package garages are a good bang for the buck.
If it snows there, tear it down. There is no structural strength in that thing at all. It's good for chickens, maybe. I recently built my own. I recommend looking into something like a Morton steel building. One of the most inexpensive sturdy buildings for the money. My site would not allow one, so I had to stick build an addition and truss the roof for our snow loads here. But I did investigate the steel buildings quite a bit due to the relative low cost per square foot. If memory serves, a 4 car wide x 1 car deep building was about $25k 5 years ago. Highly recommend a ceiling height that will accomodate a lift. Good luck. Once you build it, you will wonder why you waited so long.
I would not do trusses. There is no such thing as enough storage space. If you build a loft/attic in the structure you will get storage/office space that would not be available with trusses. It is a bit more expensive, but in the long run you will be happier with the building.
You can get trusses with a open area in the center for a living or storage area. Ronnie, what building supply stores are in your area? Menards is HUGE but in the Midwest. But take a look at their avail garage packages to get an idea of what is avail. https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...12026.htm?searchTermToCategory=garage+package
The shipping containers can be a quick and cheap way to get something up quick. I bought a 40 ft long, 9'6" high container for $2000 delivered. I'm using it as a tractor barn. Here's a couple of ideas found on the web: https://www.isavea2z.com/shipping-container-carport-storage-idea/ Buy two containers and add a roof: https://www.ebay.com/itm/20X40X6-5-...AGE-BUILDING-WORKSHOP-CONEX-BOX-/254077124134 https://westernshelter.com/container-roofs Something nicer:
We did trusses on our shop building & insulated heavy R-57. Then a vapor barrier with ALL the seams taped/sealed. No windows, less energy loss and cheaper. All the electrical is done in conduit, so minimum holes in the walls. Who wants to lug a bunch of stuff up a 10'-12' ladder to store it? Not me. The overhead doors are R-19 insulated. There's 2" of styrofoam insulation under the concrete. I can literally heat and cool this building for pennies on the dollar compared to a lot of shops/buildings of similar size. There's an old saying: What keeps the cold out WILL keep the hot out too! Keith
Thanks for everyone's input. I just have been real busy at work. But during work I ponder on this topic and look at garages as I drive. I've been putting aside question to open up this discussion even more. But for sure the chicken coop is gone. And for sure I want use steel framing instead of wood with a cement foundation. I just wanted to check in and let you all know I'm watching the thread and I'm still alive.
without reading the previous posts......I can throw up a mean tent,one of my mad skills ya know P.S. That’s not even true! Lol Me pound on metal,no wood
