What I'm using. I want to put out I get a reading of 0.011 to 0.023 on AC mode with an A that pops up on the screen with no squiggly line. So I'm not for sure if I'm making contact in the right places but when I do my meter alarms and I'm getting what you see posted in the pictures plus the Ohms sign plus a K, I think the K means kill for 1,000. Please let me know where else to make contact. All this was done with the lever down in the OFF position
What your doing in your pictures is testing to see if your fuse is good. The alarm is telling you more than likely the fuse is good. That works but I also go to ohms setting(omega symbol with power off is the safest way) and see if your meter gives you a reading. If it says ”OL” your fuse is no bueno anymore. Kyle
The meter should set to AC volts, thats the V with the squiggly line above, the V with 2 lines is DC, that is what your car is. I can see that there is no ground, carefully put one meter lead on the top of one fuse and the other lead on the top of the other fuse. You will probably get a reading of 220 to 240 volts. Again that setup has the potential to be a fire hazard, no ground, over sized fuses, poorly made connections.
To test fuses set meter to ohm, put leads on opposite ends of the fuse. If the fuse is good you will get a reading in 0 ohms range, if the fuse is bad it will read OL.
1st picture shows power coming in to the 3 phase disconnector. Highly unlikely that you have three phase power there, that's why there are only two fuses in your three phase box. One leg is showing 122v on my meter. If I touched two legs with my probes, it should jump to 220-240 like the Colonel suggests 2nd pic is showing no power at the fuse. Switch is in the off position. This one the fuses are down stream of the disconnect. I have another here where the fuses have power, but nothing is hot at the output. Read that bold part again. I would try to find the breaker that is sending power there, and make sure it's shut off. Hopefully it's a dual pole breaker, but i wouldn't hold my breath. It should look like this in your breaker box.
I just want to let everyone know that I am very thankful for everyone's help. After my post I went to a viewing for my wife's grandpa who was a great man and loved me. I did not have time to carry on with this hack of a job but I will and report back. My multimeter is new to me and not like my old one. It has an auto setting and I can't manually put it in ohms, Ac, V or anything. I need to familiarize myself more with it. Thanks again guys
Update on the mystery wire coming out the ground. It was just a external battery pack yeah yeah now I look stupid lol
This is roughly what I want to build . I did not include how long I want it but my longest car is 19feet so around 20 feet. these are the materials I have. I need concrete and a way to fasten the metal studs, I would need a recommendation as if I should use fasteners or weld this up. The metal studs are 14ft long × 8in x 2inch. Putting 2 together really makes them strong. This wood has sat for 2 years. . More2come
This is the space I want to do it in Now for some questions. My plan is double up on the steel studs as post to give it more strength. I will cut them around 7 ft and keep going till I have something like this
Questions . How deep should I dig down for each post? should I put my post in the dirt with cement or ontop with some anchored system? These metal studs are rust treated. Should I incorporate wood into my build? Or all steel structure. Could I just make 2 instead of one carports and make it long like a 40x 14? Is the idea of having a 1 foot drop in the roof ok or is 1/2 a foot better? Thanks man, take your time.
Why in the flock do you want to make it so short?! What if you get into lifted trucks later on, now your car port is to short to park in with your truck! It looks like you have enough materials to frame a better sized building than what you have drawn. You want at least an 8' ceiling but 10' would be much more gooder! Wish I lived closer, that looks like a fun project. Anyway, you need to flatten the spot out you want to build on first and foremost. Is there more pics of you material pile in this thread, looks like an older one so I can't recall?
No I took those pictures today. I should make them a little taller. I want to make multiple carports and stash cars around my property. I wonder what the experts are gonna say. More gooder haha
So, to answer your concrete question I first have a question are your carports going to be enclosed or open on the sides/walls? Just post and beams with a roof? You only need a very small amount of slope for your roof to drain especially if it's a steel roof. A 6" difference in height from front to back would give you enough slope to get that water running. I would slope it from front to back, that way if your car is backed in and you're working on the engine while its raining the water ain't dripping down your back to yer azz crack.
Isn't that the truth. You can NEVER have a big enough shop! When I bought my place, the building was 40 x 88...10 years later I added 16 ft out the back making it 56x88 because it was just too small! God Bless Bill https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/
