24 volts to start 430 after replacing piston rings

Just put new piston rings in, an put the block back together an 3 local shops told me that i may need 24 volts to start it for the first time. The motor turn as if the battery is week this battery has 800 cold crank an 1000 32 above. Is it true that i could take 24 volts? an ideas

 

Sounds pretty damn dumb to me! You should be able to start it with any good starting system and a 12 volt battery.

 

Re:volts to start 430 after replacing piston rings

Something they done is not right! A hone and re ring on any motor is no big deal. going that far into a motor bearings were probly replaced?
I know from experiance, on a buick, bearings are no joke!
they need to be clearanced RIGHT. Not just clearenced for oil but for side clearence too.
If they said that 24 volts are necessary, they must feel that the motor is harder to turn? I don't thing it would be due to new rings?
If your battery is grounded to the chassis and you have a good ground from the block back to the chassis 12 volts is plenty.

 

either 2 batteries in series is better tham 24 volt but either way you shouldnt need the extra juice a 450 cca should even do it if thats all you had

 

The block to real tight and is hard to turn. When i go to start it, it will turn like it wants to turn over then very fast after turning it seems as if the battery is no good. Bought the battery about 4 months ago.They are saying that the compression must be very high an the motor is tight. Some one suggested that i take the spark plugs out an try to start.

 

yes rings where replaced an installed with engine lube, torgued at 40 or 45. dont really think there is a big prob, because the motor is turning but seems as if the battery is not enough.

 

If the starters good and the battery is good then it should turn over. Is it possible that the starter could be binding? Like the others said berring clearance is very important.

 

Hi
I would take the spark plugs out and roll it over by hand, it should be tight but not to tight. If's it's to tight there's something wrong. You sould be able to roll it over with a 1/2" drive ratchet without to much effort.
Bruce

 

It would be hard to start with the plugs out,sorry ,I had to say that.
But seriously,try to spin it with the plugs out,should spin fast,if so its possible you have too much advance in the distributor.
gary

 

They didn't install a 24-volt battery to start these engines when they were BRAND NEW. Why would you need to do that now?

Race cars with 14:1 compression can be started with 12-volt systems.

If the engine is that stiff, THEY SCREWED UP THE RE-RING JOB. Perhaps a major problem, like +.030 rings hammered into a +.020 bore. Maybe simple, like incorrect ignition timing.

It's worth verifying that the battery/starter/alternator and all the wiring is in usable condition.

 

Never apply 24 Volts to any engine for regular starting. I've seen too many batterys blow sky high. I've jumped started 12 Vs with 24 V in 30 to 50 below weather, and they will spin like an airplane, but that was a last resort. I'd check timing first, if that is'nt it SOMEBODY F' d Up.
Be cautious, and
GL
Wil

 

I've never heard of such a thing as saying your going to need 24 volts to spin it to fire it up, Who did the rings?

 

We have enough feedback saying the 24V stuff is whacko. We need to hear more from Gary about whatever work was done and how it behaves being turned by the crank snout by hand with the spark plugs plugs removed.

There's a lot more than just piston/ring/cylinder issues to cause excessive drag problems like this.

Devon

 

when i was young(way,way back), i rebuilt a 235 chevy 6 cyl. it was hard to start. couldnt figure out why. finally pulled it apart and found that i put the rod bearing on backwards. i.e., they were scrunched up against the c/shaft radii instead of the middle. learned a lot since then and forgot a whole lot more. :grin:

 

I vote a bad ground

 

Use a torque wrench to measure how many Foot pounds it takes to spin the engine with the plugs out... Report back to us with a number.

 

Rotate the distributor counter clockwise a few degrees at a time and see if it cranks easier. I'm with Gary, could be too much advance. Also check all your connections. Clean the terminals on both ends of the positive and negative cables. I would also do what others have advised and pull the plugs and rotate with a ratchet. If it's too tight there is something wrong inside.

As a side note it is possible to use 24v to start an engine. I have a 13.5-1 526 that I used 24v to start. I used a Ford starter relay to switch the batteries to series to the starter when cranking and a time delay relay to drop in a second after start circuit was de-energized to put the second battery back to 12v so the alternator would charge it. A poor mans hi torque starter but it worked.:TU:

 

I'll go along with it being a bearing issue. I'm not sure if you put the original bearings back in or not, but if you put new bearings in, I'd check to make sure they weren't oversized for a std crank.

 

I am a truck driver so I have limited time to get under the car a week but some things that I'm reading I have tried like check the bearing there all OK torgue at 45 old bearings where put back in no markings on bearings or caps. Timing is at tdc before doing to rings car was timed great remote start. The block is spinning but after about 2 turns it is as if the battery is draining by trying to start the car alternator is 4 months old also the battery 800 cold 1000 32 above zero. Ass the pistons where installed the crank was getting harder an harder to turn it does turn by hand one Guy say put to torgue wrench on it an come back with a number ill try that next day off is Tuesday ill be on it hard place keep the comments coming

 

I would be willing to bet that they have at least 1 rod cap on backward, that will tighten a motor up like that every time.

JW