I'm sold. Give me a few months to get my '70 running, then I'm going to do this. I'm wondering how flat the "flat black" rustoleum turns out.
My utmost apologies for leaving this thread hanging. We stopped trying on the roof vinyl until the weather warms up and enough time has passed to let paint cure properly. Because we never got the vinyl on it was never "finished", so I didn't take any pictures. As I scanned through the boards I saw this post was dying so I assumed there was no longer any interest, since I had posted pictures to give people the basic idea of how our car turned out. With all that said, I will take some pictures today since the car is/has been out of the garage for some time. (It's still dark right now)
Nice job! Looks a lot darker compared to your shots in the garage. I like the color! :TU: I can't wait to try this in the summer. :Brow:
Yeah, the color is much better than I thought it would be! Looks pretty good! ________ black girl Cams
Check these out. for more info on this technique. Will be painting my Nova using this method. http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1 http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2655425&an=0&page=0#Post2655425 VERY VERY long thread but has very good info on how to paint and sand in the first few pages.
Thanks for the kind words, I tried to include a close up to see the "quality" of the paint. I have an old ski boat with fading gel coat and I am gonna do it up with Interlux this spring, it is definitely not a show boat. I think a fresh coat would make her look real nice compared to the present state of affairs. This technique has fenitely motivated me to get that project squared away, two summers of early 80's color are over! I would definitely like to see other member projects on here and sharing of technique and tips. I am positive this is not the last car that I will do this to. :TU:
Here are some pics of my Corvair's roll-on Rustoleum paint job after 4 months on the street, in the sun, rain, and getting crapped upon daily by birds. I washed the leaves, dirt, and scrubbed bird poop off this morning, drove it around most of the day, took some paint pics when I got home this evening. I can't tell -any- difference between the paint's gloss today and 4 months ago. I don't think it's going to "oxidize away to chalk" after two months after all (quote from an email I got in Oct). I still haven't gotten around to waxing it. Now that it looks good, the boss has given the OK to convert it to Buick power (stroked 215). She wants non-exhaust fume laced heat, and cold A/C. I said that would require a slight engine modification (aka, a swap). Rick(wrench)
I copied the information from the guy with the charger on the first pages of that thread and hope to use that to get this technique down. I'm working on getting the garage cleaned out this week so that I can move the skylark in. Those cars look great, especially for $50.
I am totally amazed :TU: I may have to give this a shot as well. Just wondering, was there base primer used? Or do you just apply it right to raw metal surfaces? Thanks, looks great!
I also would like to try this.It seems as if the consistency of the paint is a key to the end result.I might be answering my own question here but here goes anyway.My question would be,if you made the mixture like 75 paint to 25 mineral could it be done then with less coats and sanding with the same or better results?
I've read through the whole mopar thread, and there seems to be a requirement to get it to the consistency of whole milk to get it to lay down right, without a lot of orange peel. Unfortunately, this means a lot of coats to get coverage. I would ask Rick above what he did. His looks about the best of what I've seen so far. I have a feeling that a lot of it is in the time prepping and wetsanding, just like any other paint job. For the time it takes to really make it look nice, I decided I would look into the interlux brightside, as it's a much more durable paint, and has a deeper gloss when finished. Why put all the time into something that has questionable durability when you can spend a little extra- more like $100 for paint, and have something better for all your effort. ________ Montana Dispensary
I don't remember any of the cars in those threads using the interlux. Is it alkyd oil based? If I read correctly, that's the determing factor in the usage of the paint with this method.
Jadebird - I concur, I started before I had heard of Interlux otherwise I would have used it. It was the ability to paint it in the garage that intrigued me, the type of paint was secondary at the time. Whole milk consistency and I eyeballed it, mixed enough to make sure I could cover the whole car with each mixing to avoid dark or light spots. We did not prime anything, killed rust, did our best at bodywork, sanded the whole car and started rolling.
I rolled the car with primer, which is really the last step in bodywork. The primer fills all scratches or pits, and give you a solid base and color to work from. My car "only" took seven coats of thinned paint, and I had full coverage at five. You can just roll without primer, but then it takes a couple extra coats to fill any scratches, and primer is a lot easier to sand smooth first. I spent a lot of time wet sanding every other color coat down to dead flat velvet, too. I mixed my paint about 50/50. Rick(wrench)
So if you do prime,do you have to sand the primer before you paint? If so which sand paper do you use?
Very interesting stuff!! I love these budget paintjobs! I've been thinking about this myself too. Because the Monte Carlo needs paint in a while. One thing is for sure, I'm not taking it to a professional body shop or painter. I like to do things myself, and hey I'm still going to school and all...everything is a little on a budget :grin: . Here are two pics from a friend of mine here in Holland who also ownes a Monte Carlo. We are going to spray paint mine too! Yes, spraying. He used an oridinary air compressor and a spray gun and did it outside on a nice summers day! I've seen his car a couple of times for real, and took a real close look at the paint. And man, it looks good! He did the front header panel and the hood only. And had a paintshop match the color. http://i18.tinypic.com/4h849yu.jpg http://i19.tinypic.com/2hxnm0i.jpg We're going to do mine just like this. And maybe I'm going to do the Century like this too sometime. The paint on the Buick is pretty good, but maybe sometime re-do it, and good this time (she's been re-painted and not that great, could've been done better)
Getting a little a bit away from the topic here, but still in on the issue of "cheap paint jobs." I painted the body of my car in the driveway. Problem was that on the breezy side I got non-stop orange peel. With no wind what so ever, you can get a driver-quality job. But if there is any breeze, waste of time.
although not a buick, My truck got the old $50 paint treatment, although I went with spray paint instead of rolled on. It went on easy, wet sanded the clear coat with 1500grit and buffed it to a shine. This is my daily driver. Sure beats the $2000 price quote the body shops were giving me p few spots on bedside that didnt get an even coat due to wind, but I really didnt spend much time on it since its driven year round and used at a truck and gets scratched up quite abit
