Im sure Buick's "modern" V8 wouldnt have faired as well, Im going to say due to the stock oil pump set up, I'd want high volume and straight 50 weight oil I AM surprised the Nailheads valve train made it due to their "loopy" pushrod/rocker arrangement.
That car going around Daytona was cool, did not know about that one. Those Firestones on that car were more than likely made right here in Akron Ohio. Just think if we still made those here we wouldn't have to worry about getting them in this day and age. They did the tire changes by driving up on a ramp and a towmotor picked up the car then changed all 4 tires, this took about one minute to complete then they went back out to the track. They would change drivers at this time also. Got to wonder how many of those motors are out there waiting for a blower lol Maybe we need to be putting in Nailheads lol
https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/gauges.197307/ Simple brass fittings. There are several ways to do the same thing. Contact VDO for the sender info. https://www.vdo-gauges.com/
I wonder too about the Nailheads backwords valve train setup? I think earlier versions of that motor had steel rockers instead of the aluminum ones on the later years if that even helped. There was probably a few " tiny upgrades" from stock?? I don't think the Nailheads run very stiff springs in stock form due to the weird angles, that I read somewhere. They must have found a nice balance to not have valve float. Whether just how much they beefed up the motor which i'm guessing it wasn't much, it was still impressive. Probably Telriv "Tom" knows more about this cars run..
Your oil pressure sender screws into the block, above the oil filter, just behind the timing cover parting line, it is not in the gas tank. The oil pressure switch is different in the Riviera, because the fuel pump is electric. You have to have oil pressure in order for the fuel pump to run. Page 64-17 in your 69 Chassis Manual. None of that bears on what you are doing. The opening in the block is 1/4 NPT. There may be a reducer to 1/8 NPT. Brass fittings are available at hardware stores, plumbing supply, etc. You have to build the tee based on your needs. Look at the pictures in the Gauge thread.
Sorry, my native language is dutch i explained wrong. I meant to say i have the original type oil pressure switch which is compatible with the in tank electric fuel pump.
OK, that doesn't matter though. The opening in the block is 1/4 NPT. Your VDO sender may be 1/8 NPT. There are a number of ways to make a tee. See if your oil pressure switch screws into the engine block WITHOUT a reducer. If it does, that means the sender threads are 1/4 NPT. The picture I posted uses a tee with one male 1/4 NPT with two female 1/4 NPT outlets. The 1/4 NPT oil pressure switch screws into the bottom outlet, and the top outlet is converted to 1/8 NPT with a reducer for a mechanical gauge tube. Look at what you have, and buy the brass fittings you need.
Will do. I will find a tee. See the below link of the sensor i have: https://vdo-webshop.nl/en/pressure-senders/314-vdo-pressure-sender-0-5-bar-m14-4103590300256.html
That's metric threads, you'll need an adapter like this, https://www.amazon.com/Metric-M14X1-5-Female-Fitting-Adapter/dp/B07F2MQJ8L https://www.amazon.com/Parker-4-4-4-Fitting-Street-Female/dp/B00NEG1MCC
Sorry to but in.. The electric fuel pump in the Riv is new to me. What is the reason? Is there a block off plate to where the pump would be?
Peter, In '59 I was only 13yrs. old so of course I have no info on that of the time. For it's time the "Nail" had a vey light valve train weight. The aluminum 1.6 ratio rockers were very much lighter then the iron 1.5 ratio rockers they replaced. IF I remember correctly sometime in 1960 was the beginning of the aluminum rockers. In it's stock form with aluminum rockers they were capable of 6K RPM's stock with a seat pressure of 50-60pds. Not that they were making any power there as even with the best cams they usually ran out of "AIR" at 5800 RPM's. The valves were kinda' small for the CID at 1.875, 1 7/8ths. & 1.5, 1 1/2" even with the 3/8ths. stems. You could actually push them open with your hand. Even with that small of a valve it was all about velocity. Get that air to circulate, like a toilet flushing, & the air would somehow get in & out. For it's time what it was able to accomplish was amazing. This run just goes to prove it. When the 401 came out in '59 there were MANY that said it wouldn't be reliable & this was a way to actually prove it. Supposedly the stock engine was taken apart & gone through, I guess you could say "blueprinted", BUT it was still all "Stock" components. Just my observations over the years. Tom T.
For installing a water temp gauge next to the factory idiot light do you also install a sensor connected to a brass tee adapter? Thanks.
Most people that I’ve seen usually eliminate the factory idiot light sensor when installing a “real” temp gauge. I suppose you could run both but the factory sensor for the light is pretty big and it might get kinda con jumbled with both on a “T”
Using a "T" for temperature is probably not going to work well, unfortunately. I'm saying this not from experience, but thermodynamics. The original temp sensor is immersed in coolant flow. A "T" off the intake manifold coolant port would put both an aftermarket sensor and original sensor outside the flow. One of the benefits of using an aftermarket intake manifold is having two places to get temp sensor readings in the flow of engine coolant. Devon
