Update on my t-type BBB - Deck lid pics

lol, nope. The front header is still dark blue. The rest of the car is still black and gray. I guess I have a three tone Buick now? The body work won't be started until next winter hopefully. The onlt thing I plan on doing soon is to have the bumper fillers sprayed flat black so they don't stick out so much.

we mocked up the china model header and compared it to the stock donor header panel. The old stock one fit perfect so we are going to run that one. Lol, the "pit guys" said "keep the china as a back up, we know how you drive!" meaning I tend to let off only after things start to rub...

Yes, I was prettty motivated after tha Nationals! We need more bbb cars out there next year!

 

Someone had a question on how we set up the master kill and stuff:

The main kill switch is between the bat and everything else. In one pic you can barely see the two panels behind the MSD box (in the glove box) . One is pos and the other neg. The remote solanoid, switches, relays etc all get the power from that power strip. They were rivited to the firewall and they are actually from a boat store. The Fuel pump has short route right to the bat. But that is cut off when you hit the master kill. All the lights have factory positions.

It looks like the fuel pump gets power all the time, but if you look close the RELAY trips the pump. The relay is powered through the terminal strip behind the MSD box, which is after the master kill switch.
Hope that helps.

Also, were going to put the one wire alt to the back side of the kill switch....

 

YES! The "Black Hole” (new name) is on the hoist getting new brake lines, a rear proportioning valve and line lock . :TU:

By the time I get it back next week it will just need the motor! We are working on getting that buttoned up by the end of the month....

What other sport do you play where you Spend THousands before you even start the game?

 

Marriage?

 

lol, oh ya, forgot about that one ou:

 

Were still working on it

We put new brake lines on the thing. Line lock is on as well as the adjustable proportioning valve for the rear. We axed the stock one as the header hit it anyway.

Oh ya, the R&R rods are back. The oil pan is done less paint. I will take some shots of that next week. It looks pretty cool, trap doors and such.

5199 to date

 

Looking at the battery shut off switch... Does this car have a alternator? If it does and you don't cut the power off to the Alt. the car will still run.
I got a 4 post shut off switch and I cut the ground off to the battery with the large termials and cut the positive to the alternator with the two smaller termials. Car shuts off instantly. I have been to tracks that will make you run the car at tech and shut off the switch to test it.. And they require the car to shut off instantly. Running out of fuel cause you cut power to the pump will not past tech..
Car is really coming along nice. Looks like you are doing a heck of a job on it. When you thinking it will be ready?

 

Hmm, I think if we run the alt wire back to the bat everything after the switch should die, which has the ign, fuel etc. I will have to think about that one. Actually, all the power die's so far when we kill it? The MSD box die's with the switch, so if the alt just powers back to the bat and nothing else I would think it would work?

As for when will it smoke the tires? Lol, last month would have been good! I will try again for this month.....

Thanks for the reply :TU:
what do you think?

 

The alternator will back feed everything, just like the old charging system test, where you would disconnect the battery and the car would still run if the alternator was any good. Taking away the ground from the battery and power from the altenator is a sure fire way of being sure it will shut off.. But you need to buy a four post shut off switch to do it.
Keep up the good work, looking foward to hearing more updates..

 

lol, I think we forgot about that one. Been doing that test for awhile now. Looks like a tweak or two will correct it. Thanks for your help :grin:

 

The pic of the guy in the engine bay is Dale. He fixed me up with lines and all the gadgets.

The oil pan is pretty cool. 12an fitting on the one side for the "scavenger" system and the drain is on the other side. 7qt with baffle and trap door. :TU:

 

That oil pan is trick... And whats cool is you guys made it... That good old fashion grass roots hot rodding.... :beers2:

 

Thanks :TU: .. The guy did a great job, he was also the same guy who welded in my 25.5 cage. Finishline Motorsports guys put me in touch with him. Total Fabrication I think. I am going to toss it in the shot blaster for a few then hit it with some paint.

 

...another :TU: vote for that pan. Nice work!!

 

Thanks !

Here is the latest update, they look cool .. .003" rods and .0028" on the mains..

 

Looks good. Almost makes me want to go get my White Regal out of storage.

 

Some progress :TU:

 

I thought installing the diode recommended by Painless takes care of the feed back?

 

I should call those guys..

 

The Halo is on and torqued. The torque converter is in from PTC. We degreed the cam last night. Looks like the front cover with the Scavenger is next. I will post a few picks soon.

:beers2: