Upgrades and repairs for the Aquamist car

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by CJay, Jul 6, 2019.

  1. sriley531

    sriley531 Excommunicado

    :eek:
     
  2. Dano

    Dano Platinum Level Contributor

    I really like the cars I have and I just couldn't sell the '70 350 4-sp. - I'd sell everything else before that one despite it being a basket case & maybe that's what I should do. After selling the last one (it was the last thing I sold then too), I never thought I'd find another that was even more oddball but I did - Total Stripper & Seamist w/a Sherwood painted top. I'm ready to embark on the full resto. W/your help next month, hopefully we can sort out the shifter although it's a long way off from needing it.

    At least the Stage 1 4-sp. runs/drives and is a decent 25 footer. Going to take the @Brett Slater/Jason Cook approach and start fixing some little stuff on it to improve it to make the car more enjoyable & in preparation for next year's Nationals which totally goes against my "tear it all apart" mentality:).
     

    Attached Files:

    knucklebusted likes this.
  3. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    What I do for smaller pin holes in metal is to solder them, lead. The metal has to be spotless clean or the solder won't stick & will cause more rust. Doesn't put no where near as much heat which protects the surrounding paint. Been doing it this way for years. Have even soldered a round antenna hole to make the hole smaller to mount the correct antenna. Didn't do anything to the surrounding paint & was covered by the antenna gasket.
    Same with fiberglass although it's harder to get the resin to stick properly & start the rusting process all over.

    Tom T.
     
    Dano likes this.
  4. Dano

    Dano Platinum Level Contributor

    That's a great idea Tom. I have a core support, trunk floor & some inner fenders w/just pinholes & was thinking about sandwiching the pinholes in epoxy then sanding it all.
     

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