I know people will probably flame at this, but my manual drum brakes work GREAT! Yes, I have had problems with them and they have been properly repaired, but have saved my life and my car on several occasions. Properly set-up drum brakes are adequate in my book.:beer
Doug Ray, sounds like i want a setup similar to yours. Not a complete build but some bolt-on type stuff. I see that you are new here. Got any pics of your ride? :Brow: I was just about to ask what is the best brake suggestions. I dont have power brakes, just stock drums. Should i go to power drum or disc? But brakes are sounding better and better. Its pretty hard to stop it as it is. So intake, carb, headers, new exhaust, brakes, suspension, and lastly bodywork is what im thinkin right now. Bodywork will be a while down the road, besides that what is the price range im looking at? And thanks for the encouragement Kick71 and input from everyone :TU:
The advice on the exhaust system is correct, you do need that. I went with 2-3/4 pipe off my Hooker Super Comps with 18 inch Magnaflow mufflers. I tried to bend 3 inch, but I'm no pipe bender! I will have pictures this weekend. I'm in the process of the final wet sand and buffing the paint. I did all my mechanicals, tuning before I started the body on thanksgiving day last year. So working on it a few evenings and weekends it's finished. The car is a solid 17,000 original mile car that had only minor dents and a little back glass channel rot in the corners. The drive train is all original. Everything I did can be unbolted and the stock parts put back on (just incase the need would arise). I do know that in my area (Altoona PA) over the past 3 years I have not seen another 73 Regal on the road or at any events.
one other thing about doing the bodywork last - I see guys tear down their whole car ... drop a fresh motor between the nicely detailed frame rails, re-assemble the front end and THEN go to do the break-in on the motor ...etc. get EVERYTHING working perfectly before you even think about doing bodywork/paint. make sure every system is functioning properly and has quite a few proving miles on it first. The last thing you want to be thinking about after fresh paint is re-fixing your brakes or dealing with an overheating problem ... vacuum leak ... oil leak ... etc.etc.etc. been there, got the scratches all over to prove it
I agree!! I put about 6,000 miles on my Regal before starting the body as to try and avoid the scratches...Hopefully I wont get any for awhile.
How does a timing set get into all of this? Cason told me that with a new cam, a new timing set is good. I just bought an SA gear double roller timing chain. That is also something i could do in all this process correct?
Yes. You take off the timing set to get to the cam. The reason why you want a new one is the stock one sucks. Period. They stretch eventually messing up valve timing and the plastic teeth break. Just bad news.
Awesome. Savin up for a cherry picker and stand would take a while. I pretty much have enough for a TA intake and cam now. Just need a lil more. I get about $150 a week so to save for headers will be another month.
Update: So im thinking that this will be my official "build thread." Lots has changed since i last posted on this thread. I now have: 1.a stock 4bbl intake (cleaned and painted) 2.rebuilt quadrajet carb 3.Poston 3in. Headers (slip collecter) 4.TA_212 camshaft 5.TA matching lifters 6.header gasket 7.timing cover gasket 8.4bbl aircleaner 9.double roller timing set 10.Also got a 1972 Chassis Service Manual!! I am just waiting til Christmas break from school to do my 4bbl. swap+cam etc. I at least want to get the intake and cam stuff done. The headers can wait til thats done, but if there is time then yea. I think that doing just the intake and carb would be pretty simple. HOWEVER, i just read the "beginners guide to the 350" and the process of the cam and lifters seems above my level. Also read how to do it in the Chassis Manual. Should i take it to a shop? Afterwards i am looking to get: 1.Posi rear that can handle highways w/ no problem. 2.73? 3.08? 3.23? 2.recurve distributor (kit? or send to someone) 3.electronic ignition (crane kit) Probablt left out stuff, but thats all for now. Advice? Help? Experience?
I thought it was going to be hard before I did my first cam swap, but after I did it successfully I realized how easy it was. Once you got your intake and valvecovers off, your already half way there.
Man, if someone could pay for my airfare I'd help you do the swap. It would cost about $300 round trip:rant:
Thats nothin man, ur loaded right? :grin: But then the radiator, then the this and that and that. lol. Ive never even taken an intake off before p
The best way is to get someone to actually be there and advise you.... No.1 - 3.42 to a 3.55 or 3.70 2. kit. 3. Crane is fine.
That would be awesome, but wouldnt want someone to do that just to help me out. Thats a lot of work plus money :dollar: BUT.....feel free! :bglasses:
