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  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
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1970 Tri shield passenger side mirror (!!!!!)- $209 TPP

Discussion in 'Repro Parts' started by George D., Aug 6, 2019.

  1. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

  2. TTNC

    TTNC Well-Known Member

    Thank you for that. That photo with the bracket screwed to the outside of the door made it all come together in my head.

    Anybody using seam sealer or silicone or anything in those holes to prevent rust?
     
  3. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    I didn't use anything.

    The car also never gets wet, so...
     
  4. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I can't think of any downside to doing so.
     
    Brett Slater likes this.
  5. Electra Bob

    Electra Bob Well-Known Member

    This picture tells pretty much the whole story. It's for a '72 but with the correct template the instructions are quite clear.
    1 - Position and tape the template according to the model and reference points.
    2 - Center punch through the template. I photocopied my original to not damage it.
    3 - Use small diameter pilot drill to help avoid wandering
    4 - Drill to finish size.
    5 - Attach base and gasket with supplied sheet metal screws
    6 - Locate mirror on base and attache with one screw.
    7 - Wonder if that one screw is enough to retain the mirror!
    template-2048.jpg
     
    TTNC and Brett Slater like this.
  6. TTNC

    TTNC Well-Known Member

    Perfect!
     
  7. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Brett - did you have another mirror on there before?
     
    70GREENROCKETS likes this.
  8. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    There was a 70's style aftermarket one on when I got it.

    Hence, the extra holes.
     
    Dano likes this.
  9. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Good job covering the holes!
     
    Brett Slater likes this.
  10. ToddsGS

    ToddsGS Founders Club Member

    - I see in the photo above: the mirror, a black gasket, a cad plated bracket with a few holes in it, and one screw. Then I see Todd's post #41 above saying he has the correct mounting screws for these. Does this mean I need more than whats in the photo to mount one of these, or are his screws a replacement for the single one in the photo for one that is more correct in appearance or something like that? The Reproduction Mirrors come with a Mounting Screw which holds the Mirror to the Bracket. I stock them as well as the Correct Hex Screws that hold the Bracket to the Door. [​IMG] Two of these are required. .35 Cents each on my Website.....

    - What does the assembly stack up look like? Is that cad bracket between the mirror and the black gasket or is it inside the door against the inside of the door skin or something? Gasket goes on top of the door, Bracket goes on top or inside of the Gasket - then the mirror mounts to the Bracket.

    - Does the window glass have to come out of the door to do this job? Nope, you can do this job without removing any glass.

    - Any difference for hardtop vs. convertible doors? Nope, all the same....

    - Anything else I should know? I have the best price! :)
     
  11. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Just got my R/S mirror from Todd. Looks great to me. I painted the lines and trishield. Still have to clean it up a bit. I'll wait until it dries thoroughly.

    MirrorGasketBthSides.jpg
    MirrorPainted.JPG
     
  12. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Nice looking Larry - did you spray and wipe or use a brush?
     
  13. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I used a small brush and scraped the excess off with my nails.
     
  14. mrolds69

    mrolds69 "The Cure"

    Larry, I thought you had a Rt mirror already. A few things on that part. I think the mirror is a really nice piece (once detailed). The gasket is super hard, I'm not crazy about it. The bracket is not as good as an original. The screw is a wack part, that's the TPP of it. Originals screws were an oval head, the screw they give you is a fillister head. So it doesn't hold as well as it could. I'm different, I drive my cars long distances (like hours) and like 75 on the highway. I got a lot of vibration from the TPP stuff. Changed it out and it's great now. If you just take your car on and off a trailer you wouldn't know. I'd advise you to use the original bracket, gasket, and screw if you have it.
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2020
  15. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I did not have any problem with it to tell you the truth. It went on and is very secure with the parts I got. I'll see how it is when I drive it.

    I did have a R/S mirror. I had it re chromed, but to do it right, you would have to take the base and head apart. The head eventually got loose and would not hold an adjustment, so I took it off and used the sport mirrors until now. The TPP mirror looks a lot better than my original.
     
    mrolds69 likes this.
  16. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Had the car out today. There is slight vibration in the R/S mirror, but nothing that I find objectionable.

    ChromeMirrorpic.jpg
     
    BuickBullet and mrolds69 like this.
  17. mrolds69

    mrolds69 "The Cure"

    I knew it, Larry! Time to junk that old car, and buy a new Mopar! They're "Mo-car", you know. It looks good. Seriously, the mirror is a really great repro part.
     
  18. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Thanks Frank,
    I really enjoy having something you don't see a lot off, something different. That's why I am a Buick guy. No Mopar for me yet. They are nice cars though.
     
  19. Xporcelli

    Xporcelli Gold Level Contributor

    I did the spray and wipe method because I chewed my nails off from nerves prior to drilling mounting holes in my fresh paint and bodywork.
     
    Brett Slater likes this.
  20. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    Hahahaha!!!
     

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