Cool! That's as good as it gets then. Typed communication can be limiting and I think you can see how things might be misconstrued from anyone's perspective. Sometimes expressing displeasure comes across with a little more flavor than intended. Best of luck!
Exactly. Text leaves a LOT open for interpretation! Ive had a LOT going on lately, and have had the Nailhead Rebuild at alternating positions on my totem pole of priorities over the last few weeks, and I definitely haven't gone back to re-read what I typed up, but I assure you guys... NO complaints thus far with my "New Guy". ANY AND ALL dissatisfaction and failure was with the previous NIGHTMARE SHOP who had my block in its evil grasp! Just to clarify! ou: That story began August of last year. Man, how time flies!!! I've learned a LOT more about the old 'Nail than I ever thought I would really, and still have undoubtedly a long way to go, but the end is within sight. Ill get the block straight, and look towards the transmission selection again, and sort out what i wanna do with the heads.
Just off subject a little, but I would edit that receipt picture to at least remove your address Internet paranoia
8-4-16 I measured and labeled each Rod Bolt per Rod, & whether it goes on the Tang Side or Non Tang side. The little labels roll right off. This makes assembly easier after the rods/caps are cut, and ill know the free-length of each bolt, where they are, and I can monitor them down the road. To "Stretch" the Rod Bolts is more accurate than torquing. Maybe overkill, but ARP recommends it. Off to the shop with these tomorrow!
Not overkill, it's really the only way if you are concerned about running something hard. Curious to hear of any other advice they might be giving you pertaining to stretch and installation procedures.
Nothing too crazy. Just to use their ARP Ultra-Torque Lube, and to stretch them to .0055 - .0060 Either that, or "Cycle" the bolts 3 times to 50 ft. lbs.
Update: 8-19-16 I have been weighing out the Transmission options I've needed to, in order to provide my machinist with the parts needed for him to balance my rotating assembly. I have done a LOT of reading and digging around looking at pros / cons of different trans options and setups, and adapters. IDEALLY, id like to have an adapter purchased on Monday. Its my personal deadline. With my options narrowed down, heres what Im kicking around... 4L80e http://www.transmissionadapters.com/Nailhead_install.htm This is the adapter Im thinking about choosing for my build to run a 4L80e. I can ALSO run any other GM automatic behind it apparently. The kit also comes with a Ring Gear for the starter, spacers, and a flywheel which is what ill be handing off to my machinist to balance my assembly. http://www.tciauto.com/tc/4l80e-6-pinion-planetary-sets-1997-newer-2-97-1st-1-57-2nd-gear-ratioshtml/ This is the LOWER GEARSET Id like to install in the 4L80e to have obviously lower gears than originally installed, and VERY close to the gears I like in the 4L60e. The 4L80e is also based on the TH400 design which I think is pretty cool. 4L60e/4L65e/4L70e My other, second option is this...http://nailheadbuick.com/transadaptors Look at the first and second pictures listed on Russ Martins site via the link provided. This adapter / bell housing is for a 4L60/65/70e ONLY, which does look pretty cool, but limits me to just that; NO 4L80e because of its one-piece case. As cool as it looks, and as unique as it is, I think as far as "adapting" goes, I DO like the idea of a "plate" like Bendstens, and then just bolting on the trans... I know BOTH of these trans/adapter options are more costly that just bolting on a ST400 switch pitch, but I feel the benefits will be worth it. At the beginning of this thread, I hadn't seriously considered the 4L80e, which leaves me with these questions for you guys... Which Adapter? Which Transmission / Convertor / Stall? Which trans supplier/builder to get it from? How about that TCI low gearset? Do you guys have any preference or input on who to get the trans from? TCI is the obvious candidate I think, providing/installing their own Lower Planets which I posted, but everyone from Hughes, Bowler, and Gearstar were also willing and able to build a 4L80e with them inside. Ive read good and bad about each builder/supplier. Whats your experience?! Whats your 2c??? I have my own thoughts, but as always, would like your opinions as well! Thanks for following along, ill keep updating with pictures as I can...
I wouldn't invest in a new-to-you transmission and then change a gearset. There's maybe a 10% difference in gearing/torque from a 2.5 to 2.75 ratio... I'd put the equivalence in $$ added to the top end or crank stroke to find a even bigger % increase that would reward you with better drivability and increased mileage, on both accounts.
Another option is a 2004r. I bought a beefed up 2004r and a 9.5 inch TQ converter and have 373 gears in the back. I love this set up. TQ convertor is something to look into.
Would you consider a standard transmission? There are 5 speed overdrive transmissions that would mate to a standard nailhead bell housing. You would not have to worry about matching the stall to the cam or lock up converters with a standard. You also would be locked solid unless you overpower the clutch. Then there is the cool factor! I think Walt has one in one of his cars. Cheryl Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I HAVE even considered that as an option as well. Its just not exactly the direction Id like the build to go. "Cruising", to me, doesn't involve manual shifting haha. Its all a battle of compromises, I know. Cruising with an overdrive automatic, while having as much tire-shredding power left on the table as possible, with the best combination I can configure to handle the torque--- Thats the goal. A manual wouldn't rob as much power, but just isnt what i envision for my Saturday night cruise.
Update : 8-22-16 I snagged a new set of heads to work with from eBay, for what I consider cheap, compared to other sets Ive seen. They'll be built up without seats, unlike my original heads. Casting number 1196914, so they should be from 63-66, for ALL 'Nails. I also am about to pull the trigger on the Bendsten adapter I mentioned in my previous post. It appears to be well made and suited for a 4L80e like I'm interested in, but I have a question in regards to the rearmost plate that comes in the kit.. The FRONT plate, with the ring gear for the stater is CLEARLY indexed by the Pilot Hole in it, which will obviously mate up to the crank. How about the REAR plate? It has no Index Hole/ Pilot Hole... Are you supposed to line it up so the triangulation of the two plates match? Am I overthinking something else at this point..?
Have you looked at Russ Martin's new 4L60 adapter? Looks mighty slick. With the right 4L60 you won't need a transmission controller so the total overal cost should be the same or less.
I HAVE seen that adapter, and posted a link to it a few posts above for those who have not. However, I chose to purchase the Bendstens Adapter in anticipation of running a 4L80e. Im leaning towards this route as it seems easier to build a 4L80e up, and withstand the TORQUE our Nailheads are known for, with that lower gearset I mentioned, AND overdrive... The Torque rating of the 4L60, 65/70e, EVEN built up is nowhere close to that of a built 4L80e. Overkill with the 4L80e? Maybe.. Cost effective? Hardly! But what aspect of Hot-Rodding or Rebuilding a Nailhead IS?! I've yet to come across it! To date, I'm approaching 5K in parts, NOT including this Trans Swap OR the EFI I have my eyes on... Not once have I seen anyone imply this would be cheap, and I'm feeling it, first hand!!! My end goal is to have an extremely reliable engine with a few cool Speed Parts or "updates & improvements" acquired along the way, like the factory dual quad I snagged, my Telesco Rockers, Offenhauser valve covers, 62 posi rear, etc... and to have it mated to a nice overdrive transmission, so after all this hard work, I can wake up on a Saturday and prepare for a nice cruise, hop into my '59, turn the key and not worry about a damn thing. Before the rebuild, there was always a level of anxiety that accompanied cruising the old boat, in fear of overheating or breaking down, which kills the vibe and is NO FUN! Anyone with ANY additional input on the 4L80e swap, FEEL FREE to chime in!!! As always on this thread, Ill re-post and update along the way. I SHOULD receive those "new" heads I mentioned and the Trans Adapter in the mail today. Ill try to take pix before I drop the Adapter parts off at the shop, so I can upload them here..
Both the front and rear plates appear to be zero-balanced, which means they can be bolted on without indexing. However, the front plate SHOULD have extra metal on it to balance the engine. The early repo flexplates had no additional weights on them, the revised ones from Russ have a piece of plate welded for proper engine balance. See the modded flexplate here: http://nailheadbuick.com/flywheel Double check with Bendtsens to see which front flexplate is included!
Update : 9-1-16 I received my Bendstens Adapter in the mail! The Kit looks GREAT, except for couple a tiny things like the Balance Plate that is added to the Flex-Plate in the 57-63 Kit. I was assured by Bob @ Bendstens that it is fine with only the two welds on the corners that attach it to the Flex-Plate / Ring Gear. He wasn't too happy that I called with a couple questions about his kit. At all. Implying I'm trying to re-design his kit..? I understand that the front plate was/is probably FINE without added welds. HOWEVER, I ran two small TIG welds along the "Back" of the balance plate. SEE PIX Before I did this, the "Balance Plate" actually rattled loudly when the assembly was disturbed in anyway, i.e. a tap of my thumb or setting it down on my workbench. Carefully welding it, and controlling the heat kept any distortion/warp to a minimum or zero factor, and I feel better about it in the long-run. NO MORE NOISE. My inquiry was simple enough about adding additional "insurance" welds, and the orientation / clocking of the Rear-most "Converter Plate". There is no FRONT / BACK marking on either the Front Flex-Plate OR the Rear Converter Plate AT ALL. However, the FRONT one is easily oriented and clocked with a quick glance at the crankshaft pilot hole. The REAR Plate though, with no pilot hole and looking at the outer converter holes, you'd think it only correctly faces and clocks ONE WAY. SEE PIX. I don't know, attitude goes a long way with me, and considering the wad of dough that was spent on this kit, I did not appreciate the tone I received for a couple simple and concise questions... So I'm still unsure of the Rear Plates' orientation or clocking, but I dropped it all off at my machinists shop, and he said he'd mount the Converter Plate in the clocking that is least out of balance and we'll go from there with balancing. Other than those little concerns, the adapter and ESPECIALLY the spacers, look amazing. High quality machining. I hope this thread is still relevant and informative as I detail my build, and the pictures/updates help someone else out there!
Yeah, I know what your talking about. Seems Bob has an attitude with ANYONE who may have a question or suggestion. I know he has been doing this for a LONG time & is the KING of adapters, but the attitude he portrays is HORRIBLE!!!! If he wasn't so GOOD he would have been out of business yrs. ago.
Exactly, Tom. The kit is great. Customer relations, not so much... Its a shame, as I thoroughly believe we are here to promote positivity and to help one another whenever possible. Too bad his disposition doesn't match his product. Oh well... o No: Whats your take on that rear plate? Anyone? Should those holes be aligned in any fashion, or should it face one way vs. the other?
It's been awhile since I had one in my hand Wil, but I believe to remember it was a flat plate that has a neutral balance.
As always, thank you Sir. Ill give you a call when I get a moment in the next week or two about the heads I just picked up.
