A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by Joe65SkylarkGS, Oct 27, 2009.

  1. Jim Blackwood

    Jim Blackwood Well-Known Member

    Here's another option:

    >I was reading about Cliff's stroker project again this evening and >something else popped into my head. We were talking about offset >grinding the 4.6 crank to get 3.4" stroke. Basically the 300 stroke with >the native crank. Smart. I actually didn't think much about the journals in >the late block being bigger in dia. till the other day when we were posting >about it.
    >
    >So then the thought occurs to me if the 6.0 "Honda" rod is used, 1.89" >journal; The 4.6 crank could be offset ground to 3.525". Paired with the >Ford 4.6 stroker 1.190" tall piston and that ends up with the piston only 7 >thou below deck. Bitchin'! Just deck the block by 7 thou and that puts the >piston at zero deck. Nice.
    >
    >That would be a solid combo. Displacement with the 30 over Ford piston >(3.73"): 5047cc. 308 cid. The 1.7 rod ratio is perfect.

    I think Nic is talking about a 215 block here.

    Jim
     
  2. GS Jim

    GS Jim Platinum Level Contributor

    Hi Joe; I had a bunch of info on what I did to my 300 a few years back. No-one seemed to care about the little buddy much so I deleted it. I had it pretty well maxed out ( except for crazy man Sean ) for a 300. That's when I dropped in a 350. I've got some cross-sectioned head pieces you can "borrow" for as long as you like.That's what I used to port out my heads. Lotsa power to be had there. I used the stock Ex. Manifolds too. Port matched and enlarged. I cleaned out the insides as best I could. Gimme a holler and we'll talk. I don't want to wake you up.
    Has Poston's really gone out of business??
    PONCH
    Also; Happy Veterans Day for us that Served!!!
     
  3. 64G-lark

    64G-lark Well-Known Member

    Gransportsedan,
    Who is offering the complete centrifugal supercharger kits at $3500.00?
    Brand? Bolt on kit?
     

  4. Joe
    this combination is weighing heavily on my mind and should be able to make near 600 hp with the right cam and headflow.
    stout shortblock with
    JE turbo V6 pistons
    H beam small journal sbc rods
    TA alloy heads
    custom intake or intake adapters for rover single p-lane
    P1SC procharger kit
    switch pitch 400


    But i also have everything needed to put together a mid 500 hp big block that would cost a whole lot less for the same hp. I have to decide if the peace of mind that the stronger 300 block provides is enough to offset the cost difference. I have been in contact with a buick engine builder who has quoted me $3500 for a complete procharger kit but until i have got the ok from him i won't let the cat out of the bag
     
  5. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    Finally got on Crowers' site to check out their 300/340 cams. What a great selection!
    [​IMG]
     
  6. GS Jim

    GS Jim Platinum Level Contributor

    Hi Joe; The 200-4r trans will bolt right up to the 300. I have one in mine. The only problem is you have to make rear mounts for it. The mounts are about 6 in. further back than a 350 t or a 300 sp. Was it a 310 or 355? If it was a 310 it has 9:1 comp. A 355 had 10.25 depending on who you talk to.:Do No: I put .02 Head Gaskets on mine and had no trouble with 92-93 octane pump gas.
    PONCH
     
  7. 64G-lark

    64G-lark Well-Known Member

    Ok guys I have a few questions since I am not as familar with the 340. I was wondering why no one strokes a 300 with a 340 crank?

    It appears they both share the same main bearing journal size of 2.9995" and the same rod journal size of 2.00". The difference was in the stroke of the crank 3.400 (300) vs. 3.850 (340). I understand the deck height is greater on the 340, but wasnt the bottom of the blocks the same? Can a 340 crank be installed with no clearnce issues in regards to the cam or bottoms of the pistons? I know the rods were different lengths. Who knows the actual lengths? I havent found any spec's.

    I was thinking a 300 block, 340 crank, small journal SB Chevy rods and .050" overbore with 350 or 3.8 pistons. Add some billet main caps for a 3.8 for some added protection. Use the new T/A Rover heads, 3.8 roller lifters and have a custom roller cam ground. T & D roller rockers, 3.8 double roller timing chain, MSD distributer and box. Buy the cheap knock off 3.8 turbo headers and add an extra pipe to each side and hang a single turbo. Use a Huffamaker with the injector bosses add fuel rails, injectors, and intake elbow to adapt a LS1 throttle body and run it off mega squirt or other aftermarket ECM. Only problem is I run out of money after about line one. LOL!

    GranSportSedan & wkillgs I would like to see both of the combos you described. Somebody please build one and prove the potential of the Lil' 300.
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2009
  8. 300 Main bearing journal dia 2.4995
    340 Main bearing journal dia 2.9995

    300-340 rod journal diameter 2.0000

    Main bearing overall length 300-340
    #1 .864
    #2 .864
    #3 1.057
    #4 .864
    #5 .864

    no specs on www.teambuick.com for the 350
     
  9. Alssb

    Alssb Well-Known Member

  10. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    www.Buickfarm.com
    $28 a pair. 16 sets in stock.:TU:
     
  11. 1965Buick

    1965Buick Well-Known Member

  12. 1965Buick

    1965Buick Well-Known Member

  13. GS Jim

    GS Jim Platinum Level Contributor

    Hi Joe; I took some new pics of the sectioned heads.These are what I used to port out my heads. A few of them have the valve laying in there for reference. Every Winter I removed the heads and removed some more metal. I used an inside calip[er and transferred the reading to my regular caliper. It wouldn't go in far enough so I had to transfer readings. I did a bunch of other things, but this where most of the power is.
    PONCH
     
  14. D-Con

    D-Con Kills Rats and Mice

    Anyone know what neoprene rear main seal will work? I know a 289 Ford fits the 215, not sure about the 300...
     
  15. DEADMANSCURVE

    DEADMANSCURVE my first word : truck

    joe : lost posts or mods removed ? new info pm for ya . del
     
  16. D-Con

    D-Con Kills Rats and Mice

    Del, yeah, I removed all extraneous communication, and am trying to keep this sticky clean for reference use only. Don't want to stifle sicussion, but will periodically be cleaning it up as exteraneous discussion gets older.
     
  17. sd-slider

    sd-slider Blue Skies!

    Hope everyone just didn't give up....:confused:

    I have a 64 300(KL) w/ a 2bbl intake that needs some attention....:TU:
     
  18. 455nglide

    455nglide Working On A Dream

    I going to check out a 66 Skylark with the Wildcat 310 engine this saturday and have read this thread, seems the 300 has some potential. Anyone have any more info on this engine? Headers or intake, cam etc available? Owner sent me pics and the car looks solid so now this engine has my attention.
     
  19. 64SkyConvert

    64SkyConvert 1964 300 ci

    Hello- I am a new member here, and I'm waiting on some manuals in the mail. Is there anyone who could please give me a few basic tuning facts to work with for now? My car's timing and carbs are all messed up- I have a 64 Skylark 300 cid, automatic with factory 4bl (Wildcat with alum heads):

    1) Ignition timing setting- degrees, and is the vacuum advance plugged while you set the timing? Should the vacuum advance line normally be connected to a "timed vacuum" port, or to a manifold vacuum port? (The car has a Carter Performance carb on it).

    2) Idle speed setting

    3) Dwell

    4) Spark plug gap

    5) Oil capacity for the engine.


    Thanks a million for any replies- it's gonna be about a week before I get any manuals, and I cannot find the info anywhere here or on the internet. The car is my daily driver now, and I cannot bear to see her out of tune!!! :pray:
     
  20. BillA

    BillA Well-Known Member

    I also have a '64 Skylark with a 300 4V engine. Here are some specs: Idle is 550 rpm in gear with engine at operating temperature; spark plug gap is .035; dwell is 30 degrees; timing is 5 degrees BTDC at idle with vacuum line plugged; 5 qts of oil with a new filter. I believe the distributor should be connected to a timed port. Keep searching, there is plenty of information on these engines. In addition to this site www.teambuick has some good info. Good luck.
     

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