^All true. Another example are diesel trucks. Most are rated at 800 ft lbs orctorque snd then some...however you don't get the full torque rating until you in 3rd gear or so. This is dobs to help save the power train.
apparenty I did because I had no idea these modern cars were so fast! I was under the impression that they were all crap and thats why guys like the old iron. I see guys on here with 455s 472s huge motors, wide sticky racing tires, open exhaust, lumpy cams that sound like the engine will stall when idling, 5 miles per gallon, smell like gas, and they go 12 seconds and these are light pony car skylark bodies and then they get beat by these turn key factory 11 sec jellybeans that weigh 500lbs more, factory street tires, full exhaust, quiet and smooth, 30 miles per gallon, no exhaust smell and I wonder what the heck is going on here?!! LOL!! and the trucks too!!! having said all that Im intrigued by turbo 350 sbb. LOL. The thing I dont like about the new cars is its like being in a chopped sedan. No visibility. The windows are so small cant even see whats going on around you. I love the big 2 and 4 door hardtops. Windows rolled down, can see everything.
The guys that have have the things you mentioned and running 12's while I agree is too common place, please don't think they are even close to optimal combinations, any decently built BBB should run 11's, running 10's is a different world, but a solid 11.50 wil handle most of what you will encounter out on the street. And I love destroying the diesel guys they are always fun to embarrass
No doubt. I think if you can run a 12.50 you are usually the fastest car at the cruise in. the 50 year old guy with the tunnel ram 350 with camel humps and dual 600s has a real mean 15 second car. don't get me started on the 396 cars..
Having been to the track the past few years for TNT with my '71 350 GS, I'm impressed by the times most all of the late model cars run, even the "boring" base models run respectable times:eek2: But that doesn't discourage me, it would be comparing apples to oranges, like comparing a Model T to a '57 Buick on the track. I'm just having fun with my 40 year old Buick, time and technology marches on! Consider all the refinements us Buick guys apply to our older Buicks, better heads, intakes, ignitions, roller cams, overdrive, fuel injection, forced induction:Brow:
Gary, I suggest you actually spend the day at a track and observe what cars are actually running. I've been to plenty of racing events. The newer cars are definitely fast, but I haven't seen many people running stock off the show room floor cars and running in the 11's and 12's. I'm sure that will be more common place in the future, but go to a busy track and see what people are running. Don't necessarily believe what you see in a road test magazine, or even what you see in this thread. Go to a track and actually see who is running what, and what they are running. Then, talk to the owners, and see what they have done to the car. Add on modifications are out there. There is a guy at our cruise here with a CTS-V with mods, and he has time slips in the high 10's. Then run your car down the track and see what it runs. That will give you some perspective. Turn key factory jelly beans running 11's?? Where? Are you talking about the Hellcat, Shelby? Those are supercharged cars. The newer Corvettes and Camaro, some of them are also supercharged. Those are today's supercars, not exactly common place, especially at the track. Again, go to the track and actually observe who is running what, and what they are running. You may be surprised. My car has been together in it's current configuration for 5 years. I have run nothing but 11's for 5 years. Every year, I have driven the car to Maryland, 340 miles round trip. It will run the fastest with the Holley DP, a tenth or 2 slower with the QJ. I have run a best of 11.54. That is full exhaust. It idles with a little lump at 750 in gear. The exhaust smell is noticeable, but not objectionable. I have gotten as much as 18 MPG, but it regularly gets 15 MPG. You could drive my car anywhere. The car weighs in at 4030-4050 lbs. with NOTHING in the trunk, and me. I actually weigh my car every time I go to the track. I'd be really interested in seeing what the newer cars actually weigh at the track. I know the newer Challengers are heavy, 4000 lbs. +, not sure I believe 4500 lbs. I'd have to see that on the scale. Oh, and everything feels scary fast on the street. Go to a track and actually get a time slip.
I own a vvt ly6 again still hard to make that kinda power without a power adder and be streetable especially in a truck.
I've seen a video of a bone stock Tesla P100D do a 6.69 @ 100 in the 1/8, which is about a 10.60 in the 1/4 0-60 mph was 2.39 and ran a 1.5 short time! Peak power was 530kw which is around 700 hp
I built my marauder specifically for this purpose, to humble the guy that buy a 12sec turn key modern muscle car and expect to run the magazine time the first time at the track. I ran that car for almost 5 years running consistent mid/high 12's and rarely did i get beat by a new off the showroom car. Anything I lost to was heavily modified and typically made more than 100hp than I was putting down with less weight than my 4300lb land barge. The new cars I was running against were capable of the times advertised if the driver had enough seat time, drag tires were used and the track was prepped better than a typical street legal Friday night. What usually happened was an overconfident guy with a brand new car and a $7000 blower upgrade would pull up to the line and proceed to light his stock low profile tires into a 1/8 mile burnout, which resulted in a mid 13 sec run at 125mph.
I will take your advice. I am looking forward to quantifying how slow my car is. I have a question though. Do you use the same tires for racing as you do on the 340 trips to Maryland? If not how much slower would you be with the Maryland trip tires? How much time are you losing to tire slippage? Traction. Do you have 100% traction with no wheel spin? If not how much time are you losing? Also that 4030 to 4050lbs, how much gas is in the tank?
No, I use Drag Radials at the track. There is no way on G-d's green earth to hook my car on regular street radials. There is no point in racing a car if you can't hook it at the track. The tires spin, the car goes no where, and there goes your E.T. The first year I raced with the new engine, I could not hook it for the first 3 passes. My 60' times were 1.93, 2.11, and 1.83. My times were 12.46, 12.24, and 12.003 respectively. I slowly lowered my tire pressures until I got it to hook. My 60' times dropped into 1.6-1.7 range and I ran 11.60-11.70. Each tenth of a second improvement in 60' time can translate to 2-3 tenths improvement in E.T., so 60' time is EXTREMELY important for your track times. The second year, I replaced my stock boxed rear lower control arms with billet aluminum Metco pieces. I also disconnected my front sway bar links. That made the car hook consistently. My best 60' to date has been a 1.62 which gave me my best 11.54 run. I have equaled that best 60' with my new converter, but I have not had the opportunity to run that converter in really good air. Barometric pressure, temperature and humidity all affect engine performance. I am only .05 seconds away from needing a roll bar at the track with that 11.54 run. That same year, I also ran an 11.55 and 11.58. The new converter had me in the 11.60's in much worse weather, so I know there are 11.40's or 11.30's in the car. The amount of gas in the tank is probably responsible for the weight range. I race with the fuel gauge around half tank, that's about 12 or 13 gallons or so. I usually throw around 4 or 5 gallons of leaded race gas (110) in as insurance against any possible detonation. I don't think you need to worry about traction. If you can't spin your tires on the street, you should be able to hook at the track with your regular street tires. I would run them with 5 psi less air at the track. I think some of these new cars can use their traction control to launch on their wide stock tires. Their drivetrains are more efficient in getting their power to the rear wheels, so they can post some impressive E.Ts and trap speeds.
so youve got 18 gals of gas. Do you keep that to improve traction? thats a fair amount of weight. Surely that would be worth .10 no? Oh Im sure I wont have to worry about traction either, even with one leg but I was just curious if there is any slippage when you launch or what percentage are you hooking up? Are drag radials something you can cruise around on or strictly race track only? What et do you think you can do on the street with street cruising tires? Otherwise the car is only fast at the track. Not that its bad just saying.
No, 12 or 13 gallons total with the race gas. You can run the Drag Radials on the street. They are soft compound, so they will wear much quicker. At the track, it feels like it hooks solid to me. I don't know how you expect me to tell you what percentage of traction I'm getting:grin: Man you really need to run your car.:grin: On the street, I behave myself. I do not street race, that is what the track is for. I really like my life the way it is. An 11 second car can be really dangerous on the street in the hands of someone who is stupid. I have a commercial drivers license that I still use to make a living. Not worth risking losing it. What E.T on the street? I don't know how I could possibly know thato No::grin:
I drive my GS to and from the track, about and hour and a half each way on my MT Drag Radials, no issues. The Drag radials actually ride smoother than the BFG TA's:Brow: For street and highway I run 28 lbs, when I get to the track I air down to 18 lbs, then air up to 28 for the ride home.
well they call you the Wizard. You factor barometric pressure, wind speed, temperature, humidity and microfractions of seconds in the 60' equalling hundredths in the 1/4. I guess I just expect you to know at least you might know, or be able to extrapolate these data or use some formula, estimate by experience. I mean you are contemplating about hundredths of seconds and how to gain more traction has got to by one of the last things you think about before you finally let yourself fall asleep at night. Take it as a compliment that I ask you to know these automotive obscurae but it is both a compliment and a sincere curiosity of mine. I mean think of it this way. If a guy wasnt going to race at the track and just likes to cruise around and romp around a little bit, a built 350 can break traction and stay in one place just as well as a 455 right? Whats the sense in having 600 feet of torque when 400 is just as unmanageable on street radials? no?
Yeah, but I think I would have to be a computer and fit my car with wheel speed sensors to be able to answer your questions:grin: BTW, I got that nickname from a V8 member, Johnny Angel. It kind of stuck. I'm just a regular guy. I started off in the 13's with my car, then into the 12's, and now into the 11's. I can't wait for you to run your car. I think it will really open your eyes. I can still have fun on the street with this car. Getting on the highway, or passing someone on the highway, you can feel the torque and it puts you back in the seat. You just can't lay into for very long, if you value your license. I mean, it's like Joe Walsh sings in "Life's been good" "My Maserati does 185, I lost my license, now I don't drive":laugh: More torque is better. You want to be in the 13's? You'll need enough torque to break the wheels loose. When will you get to the track?
i can shoot for the 2nd or 9th of feb. Probably be 20 seconds. 350 4bbl, crane springs, your timing system, adjustable vac advance. 60k original miles, runs smooth. Do they test the 0-60 also? I guess its 15 bucks per person and 5 bucks per run from what I can make of the website info does that sound right? Probably take an hour to get there and oriented. Im getting curious too. What should I let it shift at? 4400? Ive got a tach on the column that still there from when the speedo broke. (fixed now). It hustles pretty good once it gets going and in a certain narrow rpm range. I never push it past 4000.
