Does anyone mod their driveshafts?

Hey everyone,
I want to know if it’s safe to use the tube in tube stock driveshaft from a 66 Skylark with 455 and a TA212 cam, a 2400-2800 stall with 3.73 posi.

Does it make sense to have a one piece made? Is there any safety issues running the stock one with new u joints?

Am I overthinking this?

No drag strip time, just a street cruiser.

Thank you,
Eric

 

Not overthinking.

Deteriorated rubber isolator can result the tube sections "twisting" out of phase and balance.

It could also fail catastrophically and that can be very dangerous to you or vehicles behind you.

$3-400 for a good DOM stronger unit is a no brainer.

How much do you want to spend to do repairs and replacing a failed drive shaft vs getting ahead of the issue?

 

$0000

But I was planning on getting the drive shaft made into a one piece anyhow. I like safe. Lol
I was just wondering if it’s a Buick thing that we do, or if they’re bulletproof. Most stuff 60+ years old isn’t so I figured I’d do it.

thank you!

 

A variety of the GM cars had that 2-piece shaft in the low or no performance cars. Most drivetrain places won’t even mess with them. I would just start from scratch and have a new shaft made.

 

I have aluminum in all ours,...will use carbon in my 65 skylark,....go new 3in .095 for most stuff imo,..3.5in .095 for serious action,..in steel,..3.5 .125 in aluminum,....and carbon for when only the best will do

Most places stock the .088,...I've twisted them,..so I opt for the .095 now

 

Thank you very much for this info Hugger! I’ve been talking with a local shop and he suggested making one from scratch with the original trans yoke. Is it better to buy a new one or is the original ok to use?

again, thank you!

 

Original yokes are fine,.... chrome moly is better but more $,..$150ish

 

My engine is only going to be around 400 most likely under, and 500 TQ just stock with a 212 cam but it will get 3.73 gears a 200-4r and 2400-2800 stall if that makes a difference

 

Biggest reason for new yoke,..is to get a 1350 joint

 

That totally makes sense!

 

Have the shop check for wopped out bearing cap holes. Get a new yoke if the caps are a loose fit.

 

I had my original shortened many years ago when I swapped in the 455 and Th400 into my 66' Skylark. I would never waste my time shortening a rubber damped one again. It kept going out of balance as it would slip and go out of phase. I have ended up with better driveshafts that I have made at home myself. For sure get a new one made. Ideally get the U joints upgraded as well.
Greg

 

Thank you that’s good info!

 

Much appreciated!
I figured doing new would balance better. This is helpful to hear!

thank you

 

Any recommendations for a supplier if theres no one local?

 

Dynatech
Qa1
Denny's
Driveshaft shop

 

I like to paint a scary face on mine.

 

Thank you Brian!

very solid advice, this is the way

 

What do you do about the rear U-joint?

 

Only 3 options,.. upgrade the rear yoke to 1350,...or have it made to 1350 and run a hybrid ujoint ,..or maintain the original 1310 or 1330 or whatever it is,..70s used a 3r or something