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  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
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Heater core box help

Discussion in 'The Big Chill' started by StfSocal, May 22, 2019.

  1. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

  2. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

  3. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    Yes 71 Skylark w/ AC, 455 swap. I saw the concerns with the corrosion on aluminum, one thing to keep in mind. Might see if i can have the OEM unit i the car currently tested and cleaned. If it checks out then i would run that. I was just thinking of the age of it might be an issue.
     
  4. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    I agree - re-core the original one if you can. The OEM units had a reinforcement strap on the tubes which the new ones do not.
     
  5. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    Scott,

    If you have a good radiator shop near you, have them recore your original with a Maine Auto Radiator core. They're out of Lewiston, Maine and have a website if you Google the name of the company.

    I just had one done a couple weeks ago for a very reasonable price. It was a little more than a repro but I'd rather pay extra for better quality & fitment.

    Something to think about.

    20190516_160733.jpg 20190516_144024.jpg 20190516_144035.jpg 20190516_143959.jpg
     
    BYoung likes this.
  6. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Nothing like an original for fit. The nozzle ends on them are better too. Aftermarket are leak prone and don’t always line up well with openings in firewall. It can be a fight to get them in.
     
    Brett Slater likes this.
  7. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Not always true. Look at Brett’s. His is non AC though. I forget what an AC original looks like.
     
  8. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    I'll get the box removed to reseal it and have the core tested while everything is out. Being in San Diego CA I doubt the heater will get much use, if ever. I just really don't want to get a leak then have to tear everything back apart. The front clip is off and engine is out of the car so it is the perfect time to reseal and check things out.
     
    Brett Slater likes this.
  9. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    Considering it's apart, that's a good idea.

    Have it tested and recored if need be. Sometimes they test okay and once the hot water starts running through them, they leak.
     
  10. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    While its out, redo it. ;)
     
  11. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    Man I would not be a happy camper if I had it tested only to have it fail later on lol. We put a man on the moon, I expect to be able to test a 40 year old heater core for leaks successfully :D:D
     
  12. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    We put a man on the moon using new parts! lol
     
  13. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    Ya ya ya :D:D
     
  14. 1973gs

    1973gs Well-Known Member

    When I had my car apart, I figured that I would replace the 40+ year old heater core. I tried two different brands from the local parts store, They both looked like they were very poor quality so I reinstalled my original. Hopefully in a few years I won't regret it. I got my car from the original owner, my Grandfather, so I knew the history of it and know that the cooling system was flushed every two years. It looked new inside.
     
  15. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    BC62B1F6-F3AF-46DF-B29E-5ADC45B6C8B8.jpeg 7126A316-DF55-44F1-B5E3-FC82C2A6FDD1.jpeg E7FE75F8-687F-4BC2-BBD1-08934E26E6E3.jpeg

    Well, looks like she was leaking...
     
  16. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

  17. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    Would it be recommended to remove this cover to clean and reseal?
     

    Attached Files:

  18. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Never hurts to clean up - especially in the HVAC ducts! It comes apart easily and it just dust and dirt inside.
     
  19. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    Got that cover off and cleaned it out. There is a flap that switches between the defrost and the floor vent, it is covered with some kind of foam (that was barley there anymore except for under the staples). I got a seal kit for this box that has a large square foam piece that appears to go in place of the old foam piece on the flap. The only issue is, is that it doesn't quite cover the entire area the original piece does. The original piece wrapped around to the opposite side, this new piece doesn't have enough real estate to wrap around, but to much to just be on only one side. Any ideas?
     
  20. BuickV8Mike

    BuickV8Mike SD Buick Fan

    Scott, I'm in San Diego also. Have you decided who will rebuild your heater core yet? I like to reach out to a place called Southland Clutch for referrals. They are down in National City and have never led me astray. Cheers, Mike
     

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