Heater core box help

Ya I looked at the pictures of the box when I first removed it and there is some evidence of sealant of some kind. I'll glue the foam one on and slap it in there this weekend hopefully. I will have to look at the firewall in detail to see if there is anything on there. I don't remember seeing any type of little round seals, but who knows. There aren't any in the kit i got, that's for sure.

 

Thanks Brett!

Ya it appears the sealing compound is indicated on the blower/air inlet cover. On the AC cars (since the evap box is housed in there) that does require a sealant. On the AC evap box I’m going to be using the strip caulk. I was actually taking about between the heater box under the dash and the firewall, inside the cab. That’s where I found a foam seal that fits in my seal kit.

Still didn’t see any little round seals in the pictures I took during disassembly. I’ll have to look in my assembly manual.

 

So it appears that there is no seal between the heater box and the firewall. The firewall pad acts as a seal. So I guess I have to decide it I want a new firewall pad. Seems fine so I might be ok. Don’t really want to have to rip a bunch of stuff out from under the dash.

As for those stud seals, the AC box in the engine bay shows 4 seals for the 4 studs. However they differ from the ones without AC. So not sure if the ones from that site will work.

I forgot I need to get some vacuum lines before I mount the box.

Also need to locate two screws that can mount the distribution duct to the heater box. I don’t seem to have any that will work. The car was missing that piece when I got it.

 

Hey Scott, I am in the same process as you are...did put together my Heater Box today...
There is no separate seal between the heater box and the firewall...just that thick firewall pad...mine fell to pieces when removing it. I will use thick butyl sealing cord from Volkswagen where I have no original seals. Also used this between the cast part with the heater core and the box itself. Seals everything up fine (Part no. akd 49701004r10 Volkswagen. You can get it at every dealership)

I checked your pics and I am sure you can answer me one question:
What is the function of the screw where I marked the picture. I had one in there but if I screw it back in there all it does is blocking the flap behind it...maybe you can shed some light...

 

You know Benny, I got to that same point and couldn't for the life of me figure it out. I think i put a bolt in there and figured out that it hit the door. I haven't installed it yet as I am waiting for a new firewall pad. If you figure it out let me know

By the way your box looks great. I debated sanding mine down and hitting it with some clear, but then figured it is tucked up under the dash so screw it lol.

 

Thanks...yes I did not paint it it just got a good bath in our bathtub

I did reuse the original heater core. I have pressure tested it 24h with no loss.

Maybe there's someone else who can help us with the bolt. I figured the door should travel all the way up and down to function properly

 

bumpbump bolt?

 

Anyone have an idea on the bolt circles above in Bennys pic?

gonna slap mine on the firewall today but won’t be able to access the bolt once I do.

thanks!!

scott

 

I , just restored my heater core box ,wondered about that screw also , came to the conclusion that it stops the door flapper from completely closing , why i do not no ,and checked some other boxes some did have the screw there and some dont , maybe some reason latter on they decided they did not want the door closed all the way for air flow ? maybe somebody on here knows

 

Interesting, didn’t think about it preventing the door from fully closing.

Oh well, I just said screw it (pun intended ) and installed the box. She ain’t coming out now for that lil thing. I’m sure it’ll work fine.

Feels sooooo good to have that box back in with the new insulation pad and all new internals.

Thanks to everyone for the help with taking on this project. Couldn’t of completed it with out y’all.

 

You’ll have to wait

 

Luckily the rubber on the blend door was in good shape for me so i didn't replace it. I did however replace the foam that goes on the defrost door (pics on page 2 of this thread), the hardest part of that was removing the factory staples. I used that same glue that Brett did but also re-used the factory staples. Came out good and seals as it should.

The vacuum modulators were all operational and held vacuum for at least 30 minutes. The only one i had to replace was the one behind the kick panel that operates the fresh air door. That one sucked to remove with out removing the whole assembly.

Next step is to attach the AC box to the other side of the fire wall. Then it is safe to say this process is completely done.

 

what about your blower motor...i intended to rebuild mine but found out it is welded together....

 

The AC evap box halves are together with the resistor, evap, and seals installed. I still need to install the POA valve, Expansion valve & bulb, and blower motor. I was trying to think of a way to "test" the factory blower motor as I need to find out if it works. If it does i will just install it and call it a day. If not then I need to find a blower motor for an AC equipped car. I don't want to try and rebuild it if I don't have to.