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  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
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Heater core box help

Discussion in 'The Big Chill' started by StfSocal, May 22, 2019.

  1. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    I packaged that thing up so a Gorilla wouldn't damage it.

    Let us know....
     
  2. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    Finally got home at a reasonable hour and popped the box open. That thing was packed in there! Thanks making sure she was safe Brett. All looks good with it and hopefully i can reassemble the heater box this weekend and get it in the car.
     
    Brett Slater likes this.
  3. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

  4. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    When installing the heater core onto the metal plate w/ flap, do you loosely bolt on the metal clamps then slip them over the ends of the core? Or do you place the core on there and then try and bolt on the clamps. Having a bear of a time trying to the second route and thinking I might try the first route.

    Thanks for the help.
     
  5. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    Lay the core in place & install the clamps with screws loosely at both ends. Once the screws/bolts are started then snug them down & everything should go together nicely.
     
    Brett Slater likes this.
  6. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    Did you 3M caulk the area where the core sits?

    20190807_210914.jpg 20190807_210537.jpg 20190807_211720.jpg 20190807_211256.jpg
     
  7. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Make sure to use the short screws. Otherwise they will hit the core! And poke holes in it! Oh, maybe that's just the AC cars... I guess those photos are Brett's car.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2019
    Brett Slater likes this.
  8. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    I am using the same screws as were there (bag and tag baby).

    I'll post pics tonight to illustrate the issue. Currently there is a 1/8" gap from the clamp to the plate making it very difficult to secure.

    Ya I used 3m strip caulk between the core and the plate it mounts to. It varies significantly from the non-AC boxes.
     
    Brett Slater likes this.
  9. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    Gaps
     

    Attached Files:

  10. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    Welp, fiddled and fiddled with it. I’m not sure how the tanks may have changed but the metal clamps that secure each end just will not line up. Removed the 3m caulk and still a no go.

    Had one of the aluminum cores still and decided to see how that one fit and it works fine.

    Trying to stay positive cuz this is getting really frustrating. It looks like there is some solder that is in the way of one of the clamps. Should I try and file it down? I really don’t want to puncture the tank tho.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2019
  11. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    I don't think filing it down will be detrimental. I actually had to tweak one of the tubes on mine to get it to fit through the firewall and it's fine.

    Can you tweak that bracket at all?

    Just do a little at a time but make sure it fits with the caulking or it'll end up leaking.
     
    StfSocal likes this.
  12. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    Maybe take some pictures of more of the area? Like, pan out a bit so we have a better idea of what you're looking at?
     
    StfSocal likes this.
  13. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    Gaps with no strip caulk and pic of plate.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    Well through some “gentle” persuasion I finally got it together!!! Woohoo!!!

    The clamps don’t all hit the plate but it’s holding it on there and that’s all that matters. I’m still 100% happy with this core and I know that it wasn’t easy for the shop to get it back to 100%. Had I sent it out in the first place I’m sure it would have gone together easier.

    Lesson here is don’t trust just any shop. Research research research. I did quite a bit of homework with shops in my area, the shop I originally went with may do stellar work on radiators, but heater cores are different.

    Now to assemble the whole box!!!
     

    Attached Files:

    Brett Slater likes this.
  15. Larry Ball

    Larry Ball Member

    Rock Auto always has good quality parts.
     
  16. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    Heater box is finally assembled!
     

    Attached Files:

  17. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    Thanks Larry, they do carry quite a selection. However they only had aluminum heater cores, which I was trying to steer away from.
     
  18. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    Nice work!

    As long as it's on there tight, you'll be good.
     
    StfSocal likes this.
  19. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    Went until the screws were tight. Didn’t want to crank much further and have something strip lol.
     
    Brett Slater likes this.
  20. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    Ok, so now that the box is ready to go back under the dash, I have a couple more questions.

    In the seal kit I got for the heater box and ac box, there is this one big seal that appears to go between heater box and firewall. What do you guys think? Does this appear correct?

    I was gonna just slap some strip caulk there and mount it to the firewall. After finding this foam seal tho, I think this might be a better route. It will need to be glued to the box to hold in place while mounting. It also needs some trimming to lay flat in some areas.

    Thanks again!

    Scott
     

    Attached Files:

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