Well, I'm trying to determine what year it is. To do this I would either need the casting date on the back of the block or the number on the VIN. The 144775 are the last 6 digits of the VIN of the car it came out of, but a 1 and an F, as I mentioned in my example, would indicate 1971 and F, for Flint, MI, the plant the car was built. If you can find the casting date on the back of the block it would also indicate when the block was cast, which would also determine the year. If the engine code was indeed a CNV (but I can't read the N in your photo) and the date pointed to it being a `70, then it would be a 250hp-350 with a turbo 350 trans out of a `70 full size passenger car (Impala, Caprice). Specs would be a 350 2bbl. with a 9.00 to 1 compression ratio. The only other code beginning with a C and ending with a V would be a CLV, which would be out of a `73 Impala/Caprice. That one indicates a 145hp-350 2bbl. with an 8.5 to 1 compression ratio and with either a turbo 350 or 400 trans. So you need to find a casting date, or the 0 or 3 in front of the letter code in the VIN to be sure. Bill
Im pretty sure its CNV. I can kind of make out the N. Thanks for all your help, I really appreciate it.
well like the headers and an ignition system. How do I identify the heads? Is there a casting number on the outside?
You'll have to pop off one of the valve covers and it should be cast in the center. Welcome to the board. . . Just a little advice Justin, lets get you situated and comfortable with what you have first before we start to unbolt any components from the engine. What I am trying to say is SLOW DOWN with the headers and other crap, we will get to all that. An engine that is running well and one you are acclimated with will only improve with each bolt on you do. Kinda like putting lipstick on a pig or on a super model. Lipstick is lipstick what you put it on is what's important. So lets get the engine running right and the only way to do that is to know what we are working with. Not scolding you just trying to reign you in a bit, you seem all pumped up- which is cool, let's just do it right and 1 time:TU:
I know that I am like everywhere at once but thats how I am, It doesn't mean Im gonna do it all now, I just want all the info I can get so when I do do it, I know exactly what Im doing.I know I want every thing but Im a guy I like fast cars. The car is also running really smooth and good, Like i said earlier the only problem is when i step on it it stutters then gets going like a champ. So your saying wait to get all the parts when I understand it better? I think the best way to understand an engine is by ripping it open and learning from there, not that im gonna do that with this one. I learn better from doing and not reading. but thanks for the advice
Odds are they are the heads that came with the engine. I looked for that in the previous photos but couldn't see the head casting marks clearly. Snap a clear photo of the front of one of them and post it. I'll tell you what they are, or close. Some, but not all, cylinder heads used the same casting markings with varying features. Worst case scenario is you pull the valve cover and get a number but my guess is they are 441's. Bill
if you want loud go to a mufflershop and have them make you 2.5" dual exhaust with flowmaster mufflers and no tailpipes. If you want loud you wont be dissapointed. Next I would get an HEI distributor you can get a new one really cheap off of ebay. Then if you want more you can always put headers on later and tear the engine open and put a cam in etc. :3gears:
Well I asked the guy I bought it from if the owner before him had rebuilt the motor before he put it in and he said "Yeah he did. The block and heads and intake manifold had been rebuilt before dropping it in because he wanted a fast hot rod car. So he put a 350 chevy engine instead of the stock buick motor."
It'll certainly work. Overkill maybe, but overkill is good Great price if you can get it for that. Bill
How would it be overkill? http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/1357250012.html I also found these. Would these fit?
Don't worry about overkill on the ignition. Like I said, overkill is good. The real kicker is that it never stops there. With this distributor you will want a really good set of plug wires to go along with it. And if you get it, before you install it you will need to find a dedicated, switched 12 volt source to feed it. Don't let that scare you, it's an easy thing to do. Just remember you need a full 12 volts to feed it. Your original hot wire to your current coil won't work. As for the headers? Personally, I don't like shorty headers and I don't like chrome but that's just me. You can get a new set of long tubes from Summit for $89.95 and they'll make more power than the shortys. Bill
I think the original wire will work fine if he bypasses the ballast resistor on the dashpanel (firewall). Devon
