why don't you like chrome, because it run hotter? Whats the difference between these two? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G9001-9/?image=large http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G9006-9/?image=large Justin
As you can see in the description, primary tube diameter. The smaller 1.5" tubes are built for a stock or mildly modified engine. The larger diameters are more suited to higher compression, bigger cam, ported cyl heads. The smaller tubes should be fine for you in my opinion. Devon
Justin, the HEI destributor you picked out on ebay already has the coil built into the top. That's in the description as well. I also think you need to slow down a bit. Devon
Keep in mind also that freeing up the exhaust may require re-jetting the carb. You need to get some detail regarding your carb and do some reading ahead of time if you want to go there. Devon
Dev- 1.5" should work good for him considering he is not doing anything to the bottom end and the engine will be reletively stock with a few go fast bolt ons. Plus $100 looks like a good buy. . . but will they fit the engine bay, and what bracketry will be comprimised when you remove the head bolt/studs?o No: But for $100 might be worth the "lets see if they work" factor:TU: Nothing ventured. . .
If you choose to run the HEI, yes. I also have a suggestion...while we try to be helpful, you also need to hold up your end of the bargain and try to self-educate as much as possible. While we're a decent resource, I suggest hitting the book store and purchasing some tech books like the HP Books series. There is no limit to how much Small Block Chevy tuning/rebuilding/power secrets etc. reading is out there. There is also an ENORMOUS amount of online info as well. Better get started! Devon
I should point out I have no idea what will fit and won't...I just wanted to comment about primary tube diameters. He'll have to do his own homework for the SBC in that car, we don't even know where the frame pads are if they're not stock. Devon
On the page of the summit headers, On the top right corner theres the parts required box. Why do i need that? Do the headers get in the way or something.
There will be no problem with brackets. Your engine is `69-up which has everything bolted to the front of the cylinder heads (look at your picture) with the exception of a PS bracket that should go to the left front motor mount bolt, but not a problem when fitting headers. The early cars without the accessory holes in the heads is a different ballgame altogether. Trust me on this one. I wanted everything to remain on the same side of the engine as original so I had to go with the early brackets. I've never posted a picture here so I'll give it a try so you can see what I mean. The only problem I can see is that you don't know what motor mounts or frame pads they used when they put the engine in. For everything to fit properly they should have used `64-`67 Chevelle frame brackets and motor mounts. Nobody can really help you with that question except the guy who put the engine in the car. Bill
One more thing that an save you a lot of grief with headers is gaskets. I've tried every 'new and improved' form of header gaskets under the sun. In most cases you will have to retighten them after a few heat cycles, and then again periodically. If you don't you're gonna blow them out, which means changing them from time to time. Go with copper gasket!!! I used them this time and in nearly three years I have never even been able to get them any tighter than when I first installed them. No leaks, no problems, happy header owner :grin: Bill
Well I went to J & M Speed Center and they looked at my car and thought it had a ford engine. They also said that the guy who put the engine in probably put it on the buick engines motor mounts, and that it was sitting low. So they said that shorty headers might work, so I order those and will be getting them on friday. I also ordered an electronic ignition kit to change from points. Thank you everyone especially Golden Oldie 65 for all your help. Justin
You're now making purchases based on advice from someone who thinks that's a Ford engine??? ou: That should have been all you needed to hear before running away from that place and finding another. Devon
Well they were thinking it was because they said the fan is close to the radiator and said that it looks like a ford engine. I was just happy that they came out and looked at it instead of just giving me the headers and not caring whether they were the right ones or not.
Alright, I've gone three pages without saying anything..... PUT ON THE BRAKES!!!!!!!!!!! Do NOT rush into this! You should still be finding out exactly what you're running for an engine, as you still have no idea what internal mods have been performed, if any. Headers are never a bad thing, but why not find out more about the engine, and find a set that is going to compliment what you already have? And I have a question, did you order shorties for a Chevy, or a Ford? uzzled: As Devon already said, the "Speed Center" guys calling it a Ford would have been enough to lose my business. In fact, I once had a "Speed Shop" insist my 350 Buick was a Chevy.........they never saw a penny from me.
Well we already figured that it is a Chevy by the numbers. And as for internal parts, I already asked the guy I bought it from and he knows nothing so unless i rip it open and look, which I have no intentions of doing, I can't figure out whats in there. And he ordered them for a Chevy. After the headers I'm done with the engine side of the car for now, maybe in a year or two I'll rebuild it unless I have to before then. They weren't calling it a ford they just thought it looked like a ford engine.
Is it true that the post model Skylarks are more rare than the non post skylarks? Some guy at a car show said they are.
