After more than ten year of rest, Its time

I dont want to do anything with the Combination valve...All i was going to do was remove the rear brake line from the Combination valve. This can be done with out causing any issue with the combination valve? I was hoping the issue was in the lines them self.

 

That is correct. Most of the time, brakes can be bled without touching that valve if the pedal is not allowed to go to the floor. Is the red brake light on the dash illuminated? If it isn't, apply the parking brake to make sure that the bulb is good. If the light is on, it can be from the parking brake being applied or the valve being shifted in the combination valve. If the light is on now, unplug the wire at the parking brake lever. If the light is still on, the valve has shifted in the combination valve. You have to remember, the car is pushing 50 and more than likely the brake fluid is probably just as old. If the fluid is contaminated with moisture and dirt, it may be difficult to get the valve to shift back without physically moving it through the warning switch hole in the valve.

 

Yes it can be removed without causing valve issues. Luckily, you're in Florida. An Ohio car, the line wouldn't come out without breaking.

 

Thank you for all your help. I'll have to look at it tomorrow. Wife said there was no light on in the dash when she was bumping the brakes. Either way, looks like i'll be replacing the combination valve. When and if i can get the switch off ,will the valve need to be move to the front of the car or back?

 

If you're getting nothing out of the rear, the valve will need to be moved towards the front. Hopefully your valve is by the master cylinder and not down on the frame. It's a lot easier to see the actual valve if it's by the master cylinder.

 

Great...Its down below on the frame.....

 

go here and read up on your system https://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/71_chassis/files/50-b.php

 

This is bizarre. I have never had to hold any valve stem thingy and I've bled my brakes a half dozen times. The pedal always goes to the floor the first several times until you start to remove the air, you can't avoid it. But I have drums all around.

 

I probably have to recenter that valve on 1 out of 40 brake jobs that I bleed. I think a lot of it depends on the condition of the brake fluid.If it's black and full of moisture, the valve shifts and wont move back. I was a GM technician for most of my life and I have never once had to do anything with that button. When a car came in with the brake pedal on the floor due to a hydraulic failure, if I couldn't get fluid out of the front or rear, I just took the switch out and centered the valve.

 

Well there ya go then!

 

@1973gs I would like to personally Thank you for all your help. It been greatly appreciated.

 

Aint that the truth..

Another fun trick is loosening connections one at a time working your way back from the brake cylinder to see if you get fluid movement when you press the pedal. Example: Loosen from rear of brake cylinder.. no fluid? Re-secure and loosen the fitting on the other side of the line at the T above differential. No fluid? Repeat and move forward. This will help isolate the section where the fluid stops. Chased my tail for a while until I tried this.

Sure, you may get air in the line.. but you are bleeding them anyway

 

My money is still on the rear hose. ws

 

I'll let everyone know what it is over the weekend...

 

This came in today....After i get the brakes sorted out, I'll install it. Any tips on removing the steering wheel?

 

That's a nice wheel! I have one similar but mine has the tri shield emblem on the horn button. You have to use a puller to remove the old one from the splines.

 

DING.DING.DING....We have a winner.... Finally removed the rear brake line from the Combin valve after soaking in PB Blaster all week. Didn't want to touch the switch as its plastic and i'm sure it would have broke off if i mess with it.



Pulled the two line on the T-fitting above the rear diff and blow the line with some compressed air from the front to the rear. Man the stuff that came out was nasty. Big can of brake cleaner and some more air in the lines did the trick on cleaning it out. After that i was flowing well. All done in that part. New Combination valve and brake line are on the list to order. Also got the new steering wheel installed. Tires are next and hope to have it back on all four again.

 

Just wanted to see what the wheel would look like if it was painted red ( to match my car) instead of black.

Just one of many to redo...Also a shot of the sport wheel installed.

Only issue i have is i need the right Eyelet and insulator to get the horn to work ( per the Buick manual pg 90-68).
The wheel i removed had the Shroud and horn button assembly, so on the hunt for those parts.

 

Pick up an 8.5 10 bolt rear yesterday from a Member here. Believe its a Lansing Olds 71-72. open end rear which i'll upgrade to a 3.42 posi.

And this was on the pass side stamped R-2 0251

Has what looks like "O" stamped on both side of the diff casing.

Ring has 42 teeth and the pinion has 13.

Axles have 28 splines.
going to order the parts slowly as i'm in no rush to get it done. Just need to find someone local that can do the job. In the mean time, i'll wire wheel to get it clean and ready for paint.