Best starter for BBB with shorty headers?

I'm taking the 430 out of the Riviera in order to remove the cracked manifolds and install the TA shorty headers. When I was removing the starter, I noticed that the two rear bolts seemed a little over-torqued and there was no bolt in the front on the bracket hanging off the block. There's no threaded hole in the starter for this bolt either.

I'm assuming someone put a SBC starter in at some point and just cranked the rear bolts down.

So the starter had been making some nasty noises lately anyway and after taking it down I pulled out all of the mouse nest material that was packed in there. I really don't want to put this one back up there.

The question is, what's the best starter to use with the headers that bolts-up correctly? This is a tired 430 at the moment, but I plan to do a full rebuild with some performance updates (aluminum heads, maybe a hydraulic roller cam, but relatively low compression) in the future.

 

No need for the front bracket, and I would run one of the LT1 starters makes life 100% easier to install ,remove, and will provide more clearance from the headers to avoid heat soak

 

Thanks. "LT1" as in mid-nineties SBC?

 

Yes, like 96 Roadmaster they bolt rite up and will spin up to 11 to 1 comp with ease. They look just like stock one just half the size and weight

 

I ran an OE starter for years, with occasional hot start issues. I now have one of the mini-GM starters I bought from someone on this board that sells them (sorry I can't remember the screen name!). It maybe the same starter Hugger is referring too. It works great.

 

The person who sells these for Buicks on the Board is Jamie.

 

Yea the LT1 is all you need, with a lifetime warranty from pretty much any parts house, just makes it easier if it fails

 

[SUP]Thanks - I'll try the LT1 unit. Should be good for my needs.[/SUP]

 

246-5111 at Napa

 

So glad I found this thread! Going to pick up a LT1 starter this week for my Riv!

 

Someone call me?:grin:

 

Yeah, this guy.

 

Jamie has unfortunately retired. I have talked with him and we will continue to provide his services. Starter part number, TA2022. We also have been trying to stock some service parts for these starters.

 

Check out post 11. o No:

 

His sig line says retired.uzzled:

 

Keep reading his sig. I think he retired from being an alt and starter rebuilder a long time ago.

 

Ordered this one and picked it up. I like to get heavy things like this locally. Sometimes they don't do well in shipping. Makes the core return easier too (a buddy has a beat LT1 starter).

Thanks.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094JJJZA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ordered the starter above last spring to have as a spare for a one I purchased from Jamie a couple of years ago. If you put them on the bench side by side you can't tell one from the other (at least on the outside). The Marine version like the one above has the 2 terminal solenoid for those that prefer to keep their wiring the same as factory. (as did the starter from Jamie) As I recall in conversations with Jamie some of the issue with using these starters and having them hold up is finding the right bolts. I have a spare set I got from him that I keep with this spare starter. Only with a Buick do you keep a "rainy day" starter.....

 

For the record:: The GM "mini" permanent-magnet starters have a metric-sized bolt hole, but the engine block uses an SAE-sized hole and threads. The bolts are also a different length from the "old style" Delco starter bolts. Therefore the bolts ARE "special". The knurl is stepped so that it can fit both the larger starter hole, and the smaller block hole.




The ARP "Mini starter" bolts have a larger shank, but the knurl size isn't stepped. I think these will also work OK, but the Delco bolts are a fraction of the cost of the ARP bolts. I would recommend the Delco/GM fasteners. I like the idea of the knurl fitting tightly in the starter and in the block.


(I converted my '88 K1500 5.7L pickup from the bigass Delco starter to a PG260 "permanent magnet mini starter". I also modified the OEM heat shield to work with the mini-starter.)

Here's a helpful link with part numbers, etc. (Link is goofy, push the "Read More" button after clicking on the link.)
http://www.remyautoparts.com/The-Latest/2016/February)

 

Oh god no! I checked it out by that number & the picture is of a PMGR 1st design marine unit.A total piece of crapou:
These use a steel 1 piece planetary gear & shaft assembly,get it wet & it WILL rust.You should have seen how many I used to throw away as non rebuildable because of that.

The way to tell is a rebuilt,which this one shows it is,has the solenoid held on by 3 sheetmetal screws on the side.
An original will not have ANY screws,the housing is actually swedged over the solenoid & will have dimples where the screws go when you drill it out to replace the solenoid.ou:Like I said a total POS.

I am in fact retired but still have a couple units laying around.T/A has the units in stock as well.
Remember,both mine & T/A's are NEW not rebuilt OEM Delco & include the proper bolts.You need 1 long & 1 short,Schurkeys part # is only the long one.