Slow and steady wins the race eh? The whole bottom end is assembled and I can turn pretty easily with a long handled 1/2" ratchet. The crank was cut 10/10 and +.040" on the bore and a million readings and plastigage as I went along... Cranks at .0015 on the mains and the rods are at .0015" as well. So far, everything is hunky dory... Continue on! Been dealing with a ton of flooding just west of here from rain and snow melt on frozen ground. However, theres a SWAP MEET at Fond du lac County fairgrounds thats gonna be held come rain or shine Sunday. Talked to one of the organizers last night and he told me they are high and dry out there. We all got snowed out on two of the bigger early spring meets. Gotta go search for them unicorns! ws
Heads up on the heater core ,.The straight nipple heater core is going to run rite into the back of the valve cover,... trim the firewall to fit the 68/72 angled fitting core
Is it really that close? I was thinking of dropping a head and valve cover on that side, but during the MU, it didn't look like an issue. I hope the booster isnt an issue too? ws https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3610890&cc=1022960&jsn=402&jsn=402 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=946934&cc=1319509&jsn=459
The one I did had Poston valve covers and just barely cleared the booster and I had to get a preformed 90° hose and join them even then it all but rested on the valve cover, had to zip tie a piece of split hose over it to prevent chaffing
Yeah... this is gonna have either OEM red or aftermarket chrome VC's. the chrome ones came from some shop on L.I. and they leak. Need double thick gaskets. As they say, an inch is as good as a mile eh? ws
Bill, Not sure how much tighter it will be with the 455, but this is how it is with the 350 in my '64 with stock heater core.
Sheesh... Im glad I checked the core for leaks! "Johnny" had pulled the outer plenum off (and lost it of course!) and there was the inner with the core still clamped into position,although hanging free from the firewall. Did manage to find the blower motor in the trunk and "most" of the fasteners. I am sure glad this happened now instead of later down the road! Barring an AC car, this is one of the suckiest jobs on an "A" body IMHO. With that 350 in there I can see the 455 being probably at least an inch taller and another inch wider at the top of the valve cover, becoming an issue in a hurry. One of the Monday trips is gonna be to crackauto to see if Carrie Nation can order me a core for he 70-72 with the dog leg in the pipe. If not its off to Rot-auto for the core and an extra 10.00 for the box. That's why I always preface a post with "One for he exspurts". Any A$$hole can C&P an answer, but once you've got a taste of PB blaster, or factory undercoating under your fingernails, you haven't got a clue. Period. Thanks guys! Dont be affraid to pimp slap me if you see something like this again. I am trying to figger it out as I go. Its a little different hat stuffing a BBC in where a 327 slept. Im good with that. I'd hate to get this monster hanging in mid air and hafta change something stupid like that core. Thats my story and I'm sticking with it! The black highlight is where the whizzer wazzer.. Bill
Hey Bill, here's the best pic I have of a solution I came up with for that "S" turn that lower hose must make. I wound up using a street el and a hose nipple along with a hose I found after looking at dozens of them at the local Car Quest. It works perfectly as an alternative to the unobtainable original hose that my car came with from the factory . I'll try to get a better pic if you need it and I think I saved the part # of the hose I used.
Watching with baited breath as I’ve heard that this was an issue (heater core) when putting a BBB in our 64-65’s. As I’m planning to do this next winter I’m watching closely to see what issues pop up with your build.
Well I did order one today from crackauto, and with their techno savvy computer system did not list a core for a NON AC 1970 GS 455. only a base model 455 skylark. Go figure. More than likely the same mfgr. from crockauto, but the thickness of the core was listed as ONE INCH, yetall the other numbers jive. Its got a lifetime warranty to boot; ofcourse, its chinesium. Nick... thats probably about where I'd get to as well. The new core does have a dog leg on the inlet to at least move it over somewheres about 1-2 inches. Isnt there a part number for the T-stat bypass hose from the T stat housing to the water pump? Hell, its only hot water. If it were crapped up water from a nuclear unit I mite be concerned LOL. More engine building today and tomorrow Pat gets a spinal cord stimulator (think implanted tenz unit in the spine) for a trial, and if all's good, a pacemaker good for 5 years in a few weeks. So, did that swap meet yesterday, and found a few goodies a la JC ! One for the exspurts. Real mechanics dont get to answer this one. The other is a split blade screwdriver for holding slotted screws. INDISPENSABLE for electrical work. I picked it up and was looking at it. The splitter was put on upside down so it didnt work. I asked the guy how much and he replied "I dont know what it is, but if you tell me you can have it". SOLD. Its made by VACO. Kinda like Klein Tools. The T handle with good threads was 10.00 Next door another guy had a bunch starting at 25.00 up to 50.00 YGBSM. Got 16 rocker buttons for 15.00 off ebay in 3 days in an intact box with 16 pcs inside. The big deal today! So boys and girls, the extra credit question for the class today is "How much end clearance do you need on a oil pump cover? The feeler gages show me .0015" high on the gears. The skinniest paper gasket I have is about .006" . That leaves me with .0045" of air on the cover. Is that too much? I have several MYLAR gaskets from the T/A pump job a few years ago. Can I get away with JUST mylar? I dont like leakers. Extra credit: I have a bunch of T/A springs as well. Should I just match what was in the pump? The instruction sheet was vague at best. Showed 2 different color springs and theres like 6. Hmmm??? ws
Keep in mind if you use the 68/72 core you will need to alter the lower hole to be able to get in place
Sawzall, burr grinder or plasma torch? I can see it'll be tight once clamped into the inside plenum. How much hole needs to get cut, or a nice big hole with a blank to cover it for the judges LOL... ws
Another thought Bill, The heater core for '64 A/C cars has a angled tube on it too. Not sure if it fits in the heater box on non a/c cars or not as it is a complete different heater box for the two types of systems.
On the oil pump I dont go by the measurement stuff moves around so much after tightened it's a useless measurement imo, I go by how it feels after it's all tightened up
Well to me it spins good with the primer rod by finger power. Pulled the cover off and no scraping. I used a few drops of 3 in 1 oil just for grins to make it easier by hand. The pocket looked like brand new and the same with the cover. So I am guessing with the .0045" on a film of oil should net me .00225" on either side. I know its gonna make oil pressure at least for some "garage dyno time" LOL. Im gonna consider this part a "go" and move on. Maybe later on I can change the gasket out for a skinnier one. Think the mylar is enough to seal it? My '72 455 needs the same thing. Oil press. is good at running speed hot, maybe 50 lbs but is about <20 at hot idle. I know thats enough, but would like a bit more. One peculiar thing of note is that when using feelers on the gear height, there was a good +.003" on one side and about .0015" across on the other side. The pocket is machined (bored) yet the flange for the cover is cast. I was able to correct this discrepancy with a few file swipes, but didnt want to get carried away. I guess arbitrary numbers are just that; Just needs some mechanical sense maybe? Pat's having her spinal cord stimulator surgery this morning, and I'll pick up the new HC post haste. Gotta go get her ready... ws
