Paint Guru's

Here's secret #2: Voc-tech high schools offer adult education classes at night. Check it out in your area. You take an auto paint class and do it yourself. How proud would you be when someone asks who painted your car and you say you did? Anyway, you take the class and you get all the tools, a paint booth, materials discount and an expert (the teacher) to show you how to do it. Maybe it takes you two classes - so what? Around here folks take the class over and over flipping cars!

 

So I've found a couple of competitive quotes from reputable shops and have seen other work they've done with what I consider good results considering my expectations as I outlined. Paint brands were already recommended in this thread but I was wondering what advantages acrylic or urethane metallics had over each other? Which way should I go?

 

You said earlier you wanted some flake - did you mean metallic paint or metal flake - big difference!

 

I realized afterwards...back when it was painted 30+ years ago laquer + flake was used but since then, this combo is not really used, especially recently, so metallic paint is the choice I guess although flake would look more "period correct".

 

Check out Vo-Tech schools ours paints whole cars, you pay for the materials.

 

Go to the eastwood sight. They have videos about various stages of the work. You can do the grunt work and take it to a pro to shoot it. They sell a roll on primer and give a tutorial of how to use it to get good results

 

https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/ . Lots of info here, too.

And here...https://tcpglobal.com/pages/restoration-shop

 

Talk to Hugger on this sight. He is in the trade and will not make you feel stupid.

 

Thanks to all for your inputs and suggestions. After giving it a lot of thought, I have to look at it realistically. The bottom line is I work 10-12 hours a day + an hour or two most nights. Additionally, I don't have a good work/storage area to efficiently wrench much. On top of that, this car already sat for 25+ years before all the mechanicals were done last year to get the car up and running. So, I could see a scenario where I started to try and save money and do the grunt work myself only to get halfway into it and end up with the car sitting again for an extended period. I'm at the point where I want to enjoy/maintain the car and believe me, I have tons of respect for those who are able to do major work on their cars themselves. So, it comes down to practicality for me given my situation and the reality of it.

 

Drive it do burn out in it. Cruise it. If a guy points out a flaw in your car, ignore it.

 

@Steve73GS I applaud your practicality. Our cars are our hobby and you need to prioritize accordingly. You can have a great time without a shiny paint job. Enjoy it! BTW I have seen rattle can paint jobs, paintbrush paint jobs, and wraps that all look just fine... I would rather see that than a car sitting in the weeds rusting away until someday!

 

As mentioned, I have no aspirations of a showcar. That's not a knock on those who have put their hearts and soul (and money) in perfectly restoring very collectable or limited production vehicles. Those people should be commended for maintaining the legacy of truly exceptional vehicles. At the same time, there is a place for a quite presentable car as a driver, with it's imperfections, that can be driven and enjoyed. In my case, the paint does need attention given the deterioration of the existing paint/previously done bodywork and the rust and dings that detract from the car which if not attended to, will only get worse. So, I'm having done basically what Brian recommended...having the couple of rust spots repaired, fixing the dings and, given the existing paint still has good adherence to the car, prepping it accordingly(sanding waviness/priming)and painting without total disassembly or sanding to bare metal. I've been quoted a reasonable price for this which won't put me upside down to the point that's prohibitive.
Will keep you posted on progress and pics.

 

Great!

 

So, initial stripping of problem areas has started and all previously rust repaired areas seem to have been repaired with metal except driver rear quarter...it is loaded up with bondo. Does anyone know where I can get a patch panel for this area? I know it can be fabbed but would rather avoid this if possible.

 

Don't believe there is any repop.

Try good used, maybe DVAP (Desert Valley Auto Parts) $650 for this whole quarter.

https://www.dvap.com/our-inventory/

Scroll down...they could cut and ship a section of one of the others.

 

Thanks Brian, will check it out.

 

NOS or a donor are the only options!

 

Went to go look at the bondo area yesterday and was pleasantly surprised to see there WAS metal underneath...not sure why it was loaded up so much. So, it can be re-done and don't need to buy a quarter or patch panel. Pulled the bumpers off,was somewhat of a fight with them. That front 5 mph collision bumper has some weight to it.

 

You should do your bumpers like Steve Caruso did to his, they look much better.

 

Nelson,
I think I remember seeing a post/pics on this but can't locate it. Do you recall where I can find it?